Day 9, Saturday, July 10. Tamarack Lake Outlet, TM 1589.2–(15.0 miles)

Three cheers for Kit Carson and his pit latrines

Kit Carson was in this area a full 2 years prior to the Donner Party. In his honor, the National Forest Service has installed a memorial marker on the exact spot where he carved his initials into a tree. But that’s not all they have done to honor his memory (as if Carson City in Nevada wasn’t enough), they have installed a couple of parking lots with pit latrines. If you want to get a hikers attention, put out a picnic table, give away treats, or build latrines. There are in excess of 3 pit latrines on Highway 88…Kit Carson was a truly great man.

Standing underneath the PCT mileage sign at the pass and people didn’t know what the PCT was
The exact location Kit Carson took vengeance on a tree

The saddest part of this saga was that we camped 2.8 miles north of Carson Pass. That’s a good hour and a half of agitation on swollen intestines after a healthy morning feed (which always includes a lubricating large cup of coffee). I tried to save a portion for Mr Carson…but I failed and left everything I had behind near our camping spot. Double Barrel Sassy and Bear both kept an honorific load for the pass. 

Bunny sheds a tear realizing she had nothing left to give
Heading into Carson Pass

Another significant fact about this Pass: when the Mexican/American War ended (the same war that prevented rescue attempts for the Donner Party), a brigade of Mormon soldiers established the route from West to East back towards Salt Lake City. This became the Immigrant Trail that allowed pioneers to flood into the Central Valley of CA. 

The view from the pass
The area of the Immigrant Trail

Since we went an extra 2.5 miles yesterday, we should have been able to cut our hike down today. Bear and I came up with an idea and presented it to our associates on the trail—if we hike 17 miles today and pull a 20 tomorrow, we should be able to catch an earlier shuttle into North Kennedy Meadows on Wednesday. Since Sassy was under the gluten spell still, the idea didn’t fly. I agreed with the women and did as any good husband will, I turned on Bear and threw him under the bread truck. (Gluten and Bear are very very bad!)

I hate to pass up a chance of getting a dead tree in the picture
My hiking companions refuse to take a picture with me in it

Bear is convinced Sassy is over the gluten she ingested and that she’s now in Imodium hangover. Whatever the case, we are thankful she’s not 100%. With Sassy ill, and Bunny fighting a bad hip, I could just keep up. Bear and I put on a show that we were willing to go the extra miles for an earlier shuttle, but our wives are against it. Of course, we acquiesced and stopped earlier than we would have liked to. There aren’t 2 more saintly hiker husbands than us. 

You gotta love a rock formation called “The Nipple”
A rare moment when I’m out front…should have used chapstick much sooner

We had 4 descent climbs today. When I say descent, I mean in excess of 400 feet. The last one of just over 500’ took us up to the side of a mountain at 9100’. I am afraid of heights and we had a full 2000’ of exposure in a rock slide field that stretched for well over a half mile. I like to go first in these areas: 1) if I wait, I’ll freeze up, 2) if Bunny is ahead of me, I’ll freeze up, and 3) if I slip, I’m way past Carson Pass where I can honor him in a way that doesn’t include my pants. 

Dune buggies ahead of us crossing our trail
Random shot of the day

I was pretty sure the new sun shirts made a difference for us yesterday. Today, I have no doubts. This simple piece of cloth with a hoodie saved my life. Over the high point today, we walked over 3 miles in direct sunlight. I did sweat, but I didn’t overheat. This will now be a standard piece of clothing for me on any warm weather expeditions. 

We got a free snack at Carson Pass
At least Bunny will be pictured with me

The modified plan was to get water at the Tamarack Overflow then hike 1.4 more miles to a camping spot by a pond. The comments mentioned lots of mosquitoes, and none of us were looking forward to 🎶 wasting away in Mosquitoville, looking for our head nets and deer 🎶. Bear climbed up the Boulder field and found a couple passable spots. Thanks to his heroic action, we were still able to set up camp, eat, get ready for bed, and get in bed well before sunset. 

One last shot of “The Nipple” before bed

EFG

Day 8, Friday, July 9. Upper Truckee River, TM 1574.2–(10.7 miles)

And then there were 3…shoot, 4. Even I forget me

We had already made arrangements with Malcolm T (I pity the fool who tries to mess up our plans) to get picked up at 10a, so we could have a leisurely final morning in South Lake Tahoe. Unless one of our fabulous readers gifts us a home in the area, this will probably be the last time we visit unless we hike the Tahoe Rim Trail again. 

Thanks to Mr T (in the middle) for the ride to the trail

Driftwood for breakfast with a quick stop at Subway to grab a sandwich for lunch followed by leisurely porcelain and packing time. (I suppose both are specialized forms of packing). We did not get our usual table even though this was our second time there. We did get the happiest waitress on the planet. We asked her if she was the owner to which she replied “I’d be the happiest person on earth if I were!” This was too much joy and glee before we had our first 4 cups of coffee. 

A fake smile in the middle of our climb

Our plan was smokin’. We were back at the hostel by 9:07 to begin our final preparations. 4 overstuffed hikers, 1 porcelain throne, and 53 minutes among us. Figuring 4 logs each, that gives 3 minutes 19 seconds per birth. Life doesn’t get any better than this. Bunny usually doesn’t use 4 minutes for the entire experience. Bear and I had already called dibs on partner’s excess Boom Boom time. I was looking at over 6 minutes per launch.

It looks like a storm brewing

Before the first one of us could enter the star chamber, a hiker walked by asking if we needed a ride to the trail. I said “no thanks, we’ve already made arrangements.” Sassy chimed in “unless you’re Malcolm T.” He wasn’t, but the fool had contacted Mr T and he was downstairs waiting for us. Mr T had tried to call us to go to the trail earlier. We were caught with our pants down. It was crunch time. I offered to forgo my allotted time since I had pulled a partial earlier. 

I don’t get tired of looking at this puddle

Bear started rushing and lost a contact in his eye. I was mostly packed so I took my pack down to secure our spot. Bunny and Sassy quickly followed. My nerves were shot and my bowels wanted to follow suit. I performed an express mission in the computer room bathroom while Sassy and Bunny sweet talked Malcolm T. The other hiker wasn’t happy, but he was a nobo…dead to us once we get to the trail. 

We caught up (for a bit)

Between Bunny, Bear, and me, we located Bear’s missing contact in the upper right quadrant of his eyeball. Bear performed an extraction, finished packing, and reinstalled his lens. We ultimately hit the road at 9:50. Since there were 5 hikers, I was relegated to the bed of the pickup truck (it’s only fair—I am the youngest of the group). Sassy talked Mr T into stopping at a CVS to see if we could find salt tablets to replace all the electrolytes we are sweating out in the heat. I managed to fall asleep in the back of the truck on the ride up. 

After all the climbing, we end up in a meadow above South Lake Tahoe

We had a modest goal of 8.3 miles today. This seemed reasonable since we weren’t going to start hiking until 11. When Malcolm dropped us off, Bunny still had to tape her toes (blisters on top of both big toes) so we had another 15 minute delay. 

This section of trail is one Bunny and I had hiked last fall when we did the TRT. We knew it was one of the steeper climbs we had experienced on the PCT with grades over 800’/ mile. Nothing like the Whites on the AT, but steep by PCT standards. We just told Bear and Sassy to go ahead. We knew we couldn’t keep up with them. We made them a promise a few days ago that if we ever made plans to hike with them again and we’re in this bad of shape, we wouldn’t show up. 

I don’t know if I’m getting used to the altitude, or if I’m beginning to develop some cardio, or if it was cooler, or if the new sun shirt made the difference, but I felt pretty damn good today hiking up the 1400’ in about 2 1/2 miles. We didn’t go fast, but we made it. I would walk ahead, find a shady spot, and wait for Bunny. I’d let her catch her breath and have a drink of water before I’d dangle a carrot in front of her and head up again.

A last glimpse of Lake Tahoe

We were only a couple miles south of highway 50, but we saw almost no one on the climb. Just a couple days ago, we saw hundreds of hikers just north of here. We felt like we were in a remote wilderness to ourselves. As we neared the top, Bunny checked her phone to see if she had cell signal to try to keep up with what’s happening with her daughter’s pregnancy. Just as she checked, Sarah called and gave her an update on her first Dr visit since finding out she was pregnant. Bunny is about to have her first grandchild and I need lots of help to convince her to name it Sheldon Cooper Swayne if it’s a boy. 

I wouldn’t really scrunch Sassy

We finally caught up with Bear and Sassy at the top as planned, but they had been waiting so long, they had already eaten. Sassy also discovered the sourdough bread we had at supper last night, wasn’t real sourdough. In effect, she had been slipped a gluten Mickey. She headed up the hill with her orange bag which is an indicator of an imminent environmental disaster. 

Looking back towards South Lake Tahoe and the rich people’s airport

This was bad news for Sassy but good news for us. Our only hope of keeping up with them is if one of them is deathly ill. This could be the break we need to get in the game.

I seem to always get left behind

We briefly talked with Bear and he indicated they were thinking of pushing past our goal of Showers Lake for the day. Sassy is not sick enough that we’ll be able to keep up. We said we’d discuss it more later if we can catch up with them at the next water point in 4 miles. They took off while we were eating our subs. 

The Upper Truckee River (and junction of TRT &PCT) south of Lake Tahoe

10 minutes is all the more we took after they left, but we didn’t catch a glimpse of them at all. We finally saw a young couple filtering water at an unidentified water source. Bunny and I were down to our final swallow. I was about to ask the young couple if they had seen a really old couple pass by recently when I saw Sassy picking up her pack. 

This looks like a volcano cauldron to me, not sure if it really is

Bear and Sassy waited while we filtered water and had a quick snack. They slowed their pace down so the young kids could keep up the rest of the way. Just before Showers Lake, we ran into a couple of guys riding motorcycles on the trail. Strider had told me to keep my head down and not enter other people’s worlds, but I couldn’t let this pass. I told them this was the PCT and motorcycles are not allowed. If a ranger sees them, they are looking at a fine of a few thousands bucks. We saw a guy riding a bike in a wilderness area in WA get a $500 fine. Surprisingly enough, they didn’t argue and looked like they were going to get off the trail. 

Our new home for the night

Showers Lake was crowded. We saw at least 8 tents. We could have found space, but we decided to push on another couple of miles to find a less crowded space. I think the real goal was to get past the point of where the TRT breaks away from the PCT so I’ll quit pointing out what happened at this spot when Bunny and I hiked it last year. 

Alpine glow on the mountains to our east

We found a beautiful spot in the trees large enough for 5 tents. Just as we set up, a nobo thru-hiker showed up. We convinced him to stay sighting “crowds ahead.” By the time we finished supper 2 more showed up. I feel better knowing there are 3 other tents nearby that have food inside of them. I still can’t convince Bear and Sassy to keep food in their tent to confuse the bears. At least now I won’t have to get up in the middle of the night to move our food to their vestibule. 

EFG

Day 7, Thursday, July 8. South Lake Tahoe—(Zero Day)

Shaking things up in Tahoe

What to do in sunny CA on an off day when you’ve already spent a couple months hiking the PCT over the last 3 years? Why not ride out an earthquake (5.9 on the Richter Scale, not a measly ass 4 like we get in South East Missouri). 

I had already decided that I was not going to write the blog this year so I’d have more free time on trail and on our zero days in towns. After the way Bunny and I had overheated this past week on the trail, we decided to follow the lead of the majority of thru-hikers we had seen on the trail and buy some sun shirts. Strider actually wears long underwear under his hiking clothes along with a long sleeve shirt and a hat that blocks all sun from him. Sassy wears a hooded sun shirt. We spent the morning (after a big breakfast, of course) going from store to store in search of sun shirts. 

After trying a half dozen different outfitters and clothes outlets, we ended up buying the first sun shirts we had seen. This just goes to prove my point about being a commando shopper—get in, get out as fast as possible. Shopping around is for sissies. If I’m going to spend my new found freedom shopping, I might as well just write the damn blog.

In the afternoon, Bunny and I did our grocery shopping for the next 6 trail days. We had already bought a few dehydrated meals and fuel when we were searching for the shirts. After all this shopping, I turned to Bear for a reprieve. The women were “tired” from all the gathering they had done in the morning. They wanted a nap. The men still had hunting to get out of our system. Bear suggested ice cream. Is it any wonder that I don’t enjoy hiking with Bear? We began our hunt.

Apparently, we are trend setters. We found a Cold Stone Creamery that was empty. We went in and made our selections. Bear chose a “gotta have it” that contained 970 calories. I’m still trying to lose a bit of weight. I chose a “gotta have it” that had a slimming 940 calories. When the masses saw 2 alpha male hunters sit down to our “man sized” rewards after a hard fraught morning with women in a shopping meca, the line formed and stretched out the door. Cold Stone should have paid us for bringing them the meek and weak.

As we were slowly ingesting our bounty, I felt the table move. I thought the masses were getting too close for comfort. I turned around and noticed a display rack and all the items were shaking. “Was that an earthquake?” Bear said he thought so. We saw that the gondola across from us had stopped. People had worried looks on their faces. All eyes turned to us. Our next moves would set the entire mood for all of South Lake Tahoe. Slowly, Bear and I dipped our spoons in our ice creams, and shoveled it in. Stay calm and eat ice cream. 

Upon seeing that we had successfully prevented mass hysteria from breaking out, our thoughts immediately turned to the women-folk. We both thought the same thing…Bunny has freaked out. In this instance, we were both right. 

When we returned to the hostel, both Bunny and Sassy were sitting outside at a picnic table. Bunny had gotten out of bed and stood in the doorway when she realized it was an earthquake. When the shaking stopped and she saw that the building hadn’t fallen, she made a bee-line for the picnic tables outside. She no longer trusted the old building we were staying in. 

We joined them at the table. Our manly influence immediately calmed them. That is, until we started looking up information on the earthquake. We found an article from May of this year that said Tahoe was long overdue for a big one. We found news stories on the quake that just happened as well as the other 38 smaller quakes that had happened in the last 24 hours. This influx of data did not calm Bunny. Nor did the aftershocks that followed through the rest of the afternoon and night. 

When we went to bed, I was going to gently shake the bed to pay her back for making me take the top bunk—“you’re too dehydrated to get up to pee in the night. Just take the top bunk.” Just as I was getting ready to shake the bed, another tremor happened. It was kind of relaxing being 6’ off the floor and gently swaying too and fro. I decided from the panic in Bunny’s voice that I had no need to shake the bunk again. But I did it anyway 10 minutes later. I cheerfully slept after that one.

Until about 1 when the room still hadn’t cooled off. Bear got up again to fan the door and bring in cool air. He was trying to comfort all of us and cool us down for a good night’s sleep. Surely, this would have earned him his Angel wings…if only he hadn’t been just wearing his underwear. Are Angels hairy? Maybe next time. 

EFG

Day 6, Wednesday, July 7. Echo Summit Trailhead, TM 1563.5–(9.0 miles **)

Why can we move faster today than any other day? 2 words: TOWN DAY

It’s amazing how energized I am today. I’m not sure if it’s because I’m getting used to the trail again, or, maybe it’s because it’s a TOWN DAY! Tracy is going to meet us around noon and have hamburgers, fries, and Diet Coke’s. Even better, we’ll get to shower and sleep in beds tonight. I’m not sure if I like the hiking, or if I like how luxurious hiking makes everything feel once you get back into a town, even a little backwoods hole like South Lake Tahoe. 

I suppose I need to explain the ** in today’s title. It’s getting a bit out of order, but it needs to be said. I am a purist. I believe in walking every inch of the trail as laid out when we are on said trail. My arms were twisted behind my back today. I was out voted 5-0 once again. Bunny and I hiked the shore along Echo Lake last year when we hiked the TRT. We’ve done the trail. We’re not thru-hiking anymore. That ship sailed when we nearly died in 2019. We are LASHers which mean we just need to hike all of the trail…eventually. The ** means we already hiked this 2.4 mile section of trail and it wasn’t that great last time. It was hot and dry in October. I have no doubt it’d be miserable now. Against all fibers of my being, we took the water taxi across Echo Lake. As a form of punishment, we all wore our face masks the entire trip. We had no choice. This is considered “public transportation.”

As has become the norm, let the weak links get a head start out of camp. Only, today was town day. We flew. It was less than 6 miles to the turn for the water taxi. We looked back but never saw anyone from our party. It was refreshing to see people heading up from Echo Lake. They were struggling going uphill. We were smugly fast walking downhill telling people how beautiful Aloha Lake is as it’s worth the effort. Oh what a joyous morning watching people make the pilgrimage uphill while we were heading to town. It didn’t matter that we smelled like walking human waste…TOWN DAY!

I didn’t know Bunnies could fly

We stopped in a shady corner of the trail and waited for the other 3 to show up. Several passing day hikers asked us questions about how far we were going and how long we had been out. The biggest part of the northbound bubble has passed us by now. If they haven’t, their chances of finishing without flipping begin to diminish. I’m sure there are still some coming towards us who started later and are really flying up the trail. They’ll pass us faster than we pass day hikers. 

Upper Echo Lake and Echo Lake, aka, salvation

Sassy, Bear, and Strider were only about 10 minutes behind us. We headed towards the water taxi as a group just in time to see the boat eave Upper Echo Lake. No problem. All we have to do is call for another one. The number is on a small hut right by the dock. Who’s got signal? No one. No problem. There’s a land line in the hut. All we have to do is call. When we checked out the phone in the hut, we realized, problem. The line has been cut. No Verizon signal. No AT&T signal. Even if we stand on the end of the dock with our phones raised. 

Eventually other people started trickling in. The first couple had T Mobile. T Mobile doesn’t have signal anywhere, we’re screwed. What? T Mobile can get through. It’s like “Rescue from Gilligan’s Island” where the professor finally gets the radio to work. Just sit right back for a 10 minute tour of Echo Lake. 

We made it…every other man for themselves

By the time the boat arrives, there are way more than 20 people waiting. We were sure to have our packs on the dock with the couple that made the call. We weren’t sure how big the boat would be and we HAD to be on the first boat. We had burgers coming to us. It would take 2 boats to get the crowd that had accumulated back to the Chalet. The only drawback with the boat ride is that it’s considered “public transportation” which requires all passengers to wear face masks. Face masks in an open air boat traveling 20 mph across a lake. We can’t even hear anyone speak on the boat, so virus exposure risk is pretty close to 0%, but if it gets us to burgers, put on the damn face masks and let’s get going. 

We have a need for speed…burgers are waiting. Faster!

We knew we had time before Tracy when we arrived, so we let everyone pay at the dock before we left. The ride is actually free. It’s getting off the dock that costs. We paid and then went to find a spot to meet Tracy. On the way, we stopped by the Chalet, which is just a fancy name for “camp store.” The store was very well stocked for the cabin owners on the lake with plenty of options for hikers to perform a resupply without going into town. We bought a couple Diet Cokes to quench our thirst.

An example of a million dollar, off the grid, shack

The lower parking lot was crowded, so we headed up the hill (and trail) to the next lot where we found a nice shady spot to wait for Tracy. When she arrived, there was a spot she could park while we ate our much anticipated burgers, fries, onion rings, and Diet Cokes. Tracy had even made a special stop to buy Sassy a gluten free hamburger and fries. We were in heaven. 

Back to my purity. I was very strict on the AT about not missing any trail. If there were two entrances to a shelter, I always exited the entrance that I came in. I always hiked north. I never slack-packed…until the AMC (Appalachian Money Club) did me in in New Hampshire. Their refusal to do any AT trail maintenance or improvements led to all of us having knee/hip/leg issues. My only choice was to not hike for a week to allow my knees to recover, or we had to slack-pack (hike without our backpacks). I’m a broken man. It’s a slippery slope. Doing it once makes it all that much easier to do it a second time. 

Someone, not me, came up with the idea of slack-packing out to the highway where Tracy would pick us up and take us to town. It would give Tracy and Strider time to get him resupplied and cleaned up for the next portion of the TRT. It did sound appealing to walk 3 miles without a pack. Screw my purity I just rode a water taxi in place of 2.4 miles of trail. Chariot, carry my pack. I’m a trail slut. Can we catch a bus to Yosemite? Where does it end?

Maybe these shacks are more to your liking

Don’t ever repeat this. It was very relaxing and enjoyable to walk a few miles without my pack. Don’t let Bunny know I said that. Tell her it was hell. My soul was in agony. I’ll never do it again. We covered 3 miles in right at an hour. I didn’t know we could walk that fast without sweating. 

We had told Tracy it would take us an hour and a half. We had time to kill. We sat on the road and waited for her. We saw her coming down the road and we got up…as she passed us up and headed down a steep curve right past us. I remember this road. It’s next to impossible to turn around. I panicked. A few minutes later, Tracy was back. She found a wide spot and a gap in traffic at just the right moment to make a U-turn. We were back on track for showers and beds. Life is grand!

Tracy drove us right to theMellow Mountain Hostel in South Lake Tahoe. Today, Tracy earned her wings and the title of “Trail Angel.” She brought us hamburgers. She slack packed us. She drove us right to our hostel. All before 4 which is check in time. Ring the bells for Tracy. 

Meet the newest Angel…Tracy

We quickly checked in and dropped our bags before we performed the next most important task of the day. It had already been over 3 hours since we ate. We had hiked sauntered for 3 miles. We had had slight panic attacks when we saw our packs pass us. We had made it to a town. In other words, it was time to eat. We headed to a pizza place Bunny and I remembered from last year and ordered sodas, salads, and pizza (gluten free for Sassy, of course). I drank 6 glasses of Sprite Zero before the salad arrived. Locust in a field had nothing on what we did to our salads. I had at least another 6 glasses before we left. I never once peed. 

Now that we were fed, we headed back for showers. Since I’m the youngest, I was relegated to laundry duty while I waited for the last shower slot (it’s not always fun to be the baby of the group). The only drawback to the hostel was no AC. We did have itty bitty fans on each of our bunks, but they didn’t put out enough air to cool us down. About 1 in the morning, Bear broke down. He jumped off his top bunk and started fanning the door to draw in cool night air. It actually worked. We were able to finally sleep on the mattresses we had dreamt about for the last 4 nights. Is this enough for Bear to become an Angel? I think not. He does snore. 

EFG

Day 5, Tuesday, July 6. Aloha Lake, TM 1554.5–(10.6 miles)

Lots of lakes to enjoy

We got up and going at our normal, 2021 start time…8:30, 8:45, never later than 9. This was our first morning without Strider. He usually wakes up around 4 and starts shuffling things. It’s become a morning comfort sound, kind of like Sassy’s snoring, or Sassy getting up to pee in the middle of the night, or Sassy getting up at 6 to go boom boom. Come to think of it, Strider makes Sassy seem like a church mouse. 

Sassy has a new way of waking Bear up in the morning

Bunny and I did leave a few minutes ahead of Bear and Sassy. We remembered the climb up to Fontanillis Lake as being fairly steep and we are very aware of how slow we ascend. Not 3 minutes from camp, we hit the jackpot. We’ve been carrying some “all natural” insect repellent. To be honest, it’s as effective as smearing horse crap all over your body. In other words, it doesn’t work at all. It only seems to attract more bugs. Give me good old carcinogenic chemistry to keep the bugs away. Some poor nobo hiker had left their 100% deet on a rock by the trail. We didn’t hesitate a second before grabbing it. It was probably some smart ass punk anyway, so no guilt here. 

Could you damn hikers keep it down? Not everyone likes to get up early

We started climbing. Bunny had her head down and was pushing on not paying attention to anything. How true that was, I didn’t realize until we got to the top. A nobo thru-hiker had set up his tent in a flat spot right next to the trail. It looked to be a Big Agnes tent and he’d left his rain fly off. He was not a foot off the trail, so not only was he clearly seen sleeping in his underwear, he was close enough to the trail to smell him. When we got to the Fontanillis Lake overflow, Bear and Sassy caught up with us. Sassy asked Bunny what she thought of the nobo hiker sitting in his tent smoking a cigarette (he must have woke up just after we passed). Bunny said she hadn’t seen anyone hiking up. 

Fontanillis Lake

Fontanillis was as beautiful as we remembered. The mountains on the other side of the lake were reflected in the water’s surface. It was gorgeous. We met a few hikers in the area. One was a girl from Israel. Her trail name was Barnes & Noble. We chatted for a bit and told her we wanted to hike the Israel National Trail—she had hiked it twice and loved it. (Bedouins will take hikers in!) She’s hiked all over the world and wants to hike the Camino de Santiago next year because she wants to have coffees in all the small cafes along the trail. She got her trail name when she was in San Diego and stopped in a Barnes & Noble for a coffee and nearly choked on it. 

Barnes & Noble from Israel

The four of us started the climb up to Dicks Lake where we planned to stop for a snack and get water for the climb up to Dicks Pass. Strider caught up with us just before we got to Dicks Lake. It seemed like all of us needed a little Dicks juice in our water bottles. Fontanillis is actually filled by Dicks overflow. I couldn’t swallow the juice without adding a bit of flavor to it first. I needed the salt, but only if it had a fruity taste. Everyone else seemed fine with Dicks water unflavored. 

Dicks Lake and Pass

It’s a 2 mile climb up to Dicks Pass from the lake with a gain of over 1000’. It’s really not too bad. The back side descent is much steeper and exposed. Bunny and I took off just a few minutes ahead of everyone else and it looked like we might actually be keeping pace with them until we neared the top where Sassy and Strider passed us. Bear was still behind us, but only because he was talking to everyone he passed on the way up. All in all, we did better keeping up than we had been. 

Reunited at the Pass

Going downhill was pure pleasure. The big climb was over and we could watch the crowds struggling up the steeper side to get to the Pass. Nothing gives greater pleasure than watching others suffer (even if it’s by their own choice). That’s probably why we, as a society, do nothing to tackle poverty. Nothing makes a person sleep sounder knowing that, somewhere, someone is worse off. 

Susie Lake below us

I had a goal of having lunch on Susie Lake. Bunny and I had lunch on a small finger into the lake last fall. It’s the last spot to stop before the climb up to Heather Lake prior to our goal of Aloha Lake. The spot on Susie Lake allows us to look back up at Dicks Pass while we relax. I thought everyone might take their shoes and socks off and soak their feet, but I was the only one who partook. 

Snow fields above Dicks Lake

Bunny and I are getting better, but still slower than everyone else. We took off while the others were having a discussion on metaphysics. Bear and Strider were starting to get philosophical and my mind wasn’t up to it. Until my body gets adjusted to the trail, I just don’t have the energy to do anything other than feel sorry for myself…lord knows no one else does. Wo is me. 

Strider astride a giant cedar

It was getting quite hot. I’ve been trying to drink lots of electrolytes, but I just can’t keep up with all the sweat I’m losing every day. The walk along the shore of Heather and then up to Aloha is all in the sun. To make it worse, it’s all rocks which have been absorbing heat all day. I just can’t take being in direct sun for long periods of time. 

Heather Lake is under appreciated because of its rocky shoreline

Sassy caught up with us before we got around Heather Lake. Bear and Strider were nowhere to be seen. She said they were full on into a philosophical discussion and she didn’t have the patience for it in this heat. I feel her pain (much more than I get from anyone). The three of us pushed on up to Aloha Lake. 

A marmot cursing us as we climb up to Aloha Lake

The camping area is on the far end of Aloha from us. When we came by here last fall, the lake water level was much lower. We actually camped in the lake bottom between rocks. Now, we could only see the top of those rocks. The other thing we had forgotten is how long this damn lake is when you’re hot and tired. 

Aloha Lake

There were lots of people out along the lake. People were swimming or camping almost everywhere we looked. We were afraid we might have a hard time finding a good spot. The three of us started looking for open spaces in the rocks. Sassy spotted a flat spot near the shore completely surrounded by huge boulders. She sent me to check it out. (Being the youngest, everyone feels free to tell me what to do, and I usually do it.) it was a beautiful spot that could easily hold 5 tents on two different levels. The best part, (don’t tell any LNT authorities) we were less than 50’ from the water with our own private Boulder access. In all fairness, no one on the lake could see us, nor could we actually see the lake from our spot. 

A hidden campsite near Aloha Lake

Before we could get out there to claim the spot, Bear and Strider showed up. I yelled at them and motioned for them to come directly to me which was the easiest route. They were still so deep in conversation that they didn’t notice and walked on by. When they bumped into Sassy, they noticed we had found a campsite. 

The start of a pretty sunset

We set up camp in the depression. If someone walked by, they could only see us if we were standing up. Strider had gotten to go swimming in Middle Velma last night. Tonight, we all went into Aloha to cool off. Only Strider and I got completely under water. When I got out and back on the rocks, I about froze because a breeze had finally appeared. By the time we ate supper, almost everything was dry. 

One more look at Dicks Lake and Fontanillis Lake

Most of the people around the lake turned out to be day hikers. The crowds cleared out fast as the sun started setting. We all climbed up to a boulder behind camp to watch the sun set and have a nice after dinner conversation. Tomorrow will be our last day with Strider. His wife, Tracy, is going to meet us at the Chalet to bring us burgers and resupply Strider as he continues his TRT thru-hike. I wish we had been in better shape for hiking with him. We did warn him ahead of time, so he was well aware. We’ve had a great week with Strider and we will miss him.

EFG

Day 4, Monday, July 5. Middle Velma Lake, TM 1543.9–(12.2 miles)

Day 4 hell

Today was rough. Today was day 4. Enough said. Day 4 is always the hardest on us when starting out. Your body isn’t used to carrying a pack. You’re not used to hiking 8+ hours a day. Your body is tired of the repetition. Your tired of being tired and sore. You stink like urine (one perk of hiking that people don’t talk about much is the lack of hygiene…I’m willing to go the poop distance here). Day 4 just sucks. 

Everyone drags a bit on day 4…even Bear, just a little

The first 3.6 miles of trail was completely dead air. There wasn’t even the slightest hint of wind or air movement. The humidity was high. (This is a relative comparison. Back home in MO, IL, and KY, it’s not unusual for the humidity to be 90+ %.) The humidity had to be 40%. Unusually high for here. We felt it. But the worst part was the mother f#$&ing mosquitoes buzzing in our faces. They weren’t thick, but always there. It was too hot to put on headnets for just one or two. I was starting to go (some might say “long gone”) crazy. 

Will this day ever end?

I had no energy. Bear and Sassy caught up with us about 5 miles in, but they kept going. We passed them again a bit later when they had found a spot with a breeze. We were close enough to Richardson Lake that we kept going. I was short on patience, energy, and water. They caught up with us at the lake, but didn’t stay long because they had just had a snack. As soon as they left, Strider caught up with us. 

Bunny feels it

This was a new strategy for Strider. He’d wait anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes after we left someplace (depending on how far it was to our next rendezvous) and then he’d catch up, or pass us, as we were about there. Today was our entry into Desolation Wilderness. I honestly don’t know why it’s called this because this area is filled with alpine lakes. It was our favorite area on the Tahoe Rim Trail last year. 

Entering Desolation Wilderness

Strider PM (we added the PM for Perpetual Motion…Strider is always doing something, he’s a total ball of energy) was carrying swim trunks because he plans on swimming in some of these lakes. Our goal for today is Middle Velma Lake. We didn’t stop there last year, but went on to Dicks Lake. We remembered walking by the lake, but didn’t remember the camping spot. 

Just as we were getting close, Guthook logged me out. Bunny’s phone was already dead, so we weren’t quite sure where we were headed. We knew we had to get water about 1/2 mile before camp. The outlet from Middle Velma wasn’t flowing well, so we headed up to the lake to get water. We filled all of our drinking bottles then filled our squeeze bags with another 4 liters. It seemed pretty stupid to camp next to a lake and carry 7 liters of water, but that’s what we remembered we had to do.

Maybe a flower to brighten the day

When we finally found the camp, we understood why. The camp was about 100’ above the lake on a rock shelf. Bear and Sassy had their tent all set up, but Strider wasn’t around. We asked if they had seen him because we were certain he was ahead of us. They told us he had shown up at camp, but when he saw how far from the water it was, he got antsy. He wanted to swim, so he had decided to bushwhack down to the water’s edge and camp there. He said he’d catch up with us in the morning. 

There was a decent breeze up where we were, so I was fine staying there. The site was just big enough for the two tents, so it all worked out for the best. We had dinner with just the 4 of us. We’ll have to get used to this because Strider will be continuing on when we head into South Lake Tahoe for a day of rest in a couple of days. Since the 4 of us have already hiked over 1300 miles together, this felt like old times. 

A Light Heart and a Big Ass

Except for being overweight, overheated, out of shape, old, dehydrated, annoyed by the bugs, and not used to the altitude, we might be having fun. Sassy reminded me this was day 4 and that things will probably get better. We promised them that if we were supposed to meet them in the future and we hadn’t stayed, or gotten, in shape, we wouldn’t show up. 

EFG

Day 3, Sunday, July 4. Bear Lake Outlet, TM 1531.7–(13.6 miles)

Our media empire pays off with a trail recognition

There were just too many reasons to not pass Bear Lake Outlet. 1) We’re hiking with Bear. 2) We’re carrying bear canisters. 3) We want to see a bear. 4) It took Bear to coax me into camp. And, most importantly, 5) I couldn’t possibly have taken another step yesterday. 

Once again, we were first out of camp at 8:45. It’s no accident. We’re so slow, we need the head start, especially on large climbs like we had today. For an in shape hiker, this would have been a pleasant rise to the back side of the ski areas above Lake Tahoe. To us, not so much. As usual, Bear and Sassy passed us before top. We expected Strider to pass us also, but he’s to the point he realizes he can stay in camp an hour after we leave and still catch us in time for lunch. 

A clear shot of Lake Tahoe from the trail

Once we got to the top, we discovered we had cell signal enough to call ahead to South Lake Tahoe to make reservations for Mellow Mountain Hostel on the 7th and 8th. Strider still hadn’t caught up to us which caused me to worry a bit. I decided to call him as well to make sure he was okay. As I expected, he was just a single turn of the trail behind us. I think he took a short nap after we left. 

Enough level sections today that we got to hike with Bear and Sassy

Something special happened to us today. Fortunately, it was on a level section of trail when it did (I almost appear like a capable hiker on level and downhill sections of trail). We were recognized by a couple heading north. “Is that Easily Forgotten and Bunny Tracks?” I didn’t recognize the person who asked, so I asked him to take off his sunglasses hoping a name would come to mind. “Don’t worry, you don’t know us. We recognize you from your videos.” This is only the third time this has happened to us, that someone knew who we were from our social media empire. Donkey and Chia actively looked for older hikers to get a feel for what to expect before they set out on the PCT. We definitely qualify as older. 

Chia and Donkey recognized us from Bunny’s videos (they had no idea I wrote a blog)

Nay, nay, nay. There is an actual older hiker on the trail this year. Chia told us Billy Goat is out trying to complete his 9th and 10th hikes on the PCT. He’s 82 years old and heading our way. They passed him several days ago. They said we’d recognize him because of his long beard and skinny legs that don’t look like they’d support a person. I filed this info away hoping to meet him. He’s out here at 82 doing what I can barely do at 57 (the youngest in calendar years of our group, but most feeble, by far).

We stopped for lunch at TRT/PCT junction. I remembered this area from last year and knew this area had trees and shade. This junction also has symbolic meaning to our group. This is where Strider leaves us on the PCT and starts hiking the TRT. We may be walking together for the next 40 miles, but we’ll be on completely different trails. This is the true start of Strider’s Tahoe Rim Trail thru-hike. 

Strider told us where the moss starts on the trees is the average snow depth in winter, Bunny demonstrates why we avoid the snow

After lunch, we ran into Cheerful from the former East Germany. When we heard her accent, we quizzed her on where she was from. We spent almost 3 weeks exploring Germany in 2017. She told us where she was from, but we didn’t recognize the town. When we listed all the cities we had visited, she told us she was very near to Wismar. This was a very cool city on the Baltic Sea that has hidden passages to neighborhoods that cut through houses. The princess that ruled the city was worried about affordable housing for the poor, so she mandated that some courtyards be modified to provide small houses. The only way into these neighborhoods was to cut passages into lower levels of the homes that surrounded them. We had a great time finding and exploring these hidden areas. 

Because I had been so feeble yesterday, Bear came up with a multifaceted plan to cover all options today. We had a bail out campsite at 8.4 miles with a targeted campsite at 10 miles. He had a stretch goal of camping at 12.4 miles. The only option he hadn’t considered was the chance that I might bounce back a bit. We ended up hiking 13.4 miles today to keep us relatively close to schedule. 

I’ve got to get in the action every now and then

The main reason we did so much better today was the lower temperatures with partial cloud cover. There is a possibility that I might be starting to get used to the altitude. It will take me a long time to build some cardio and lose weight, both of which will help immensely. Until that happens, I will continue to drag everyone else down to my level. 

The campsite was gorgeous. There were lots of flats spots with downed logs separating the tent sites (which make great sitting and cooking areas). A stream was close by so we could rinse off and get good, cold drinking water. Bunny asked “why is no one here?” Almost as soon as we set up our tents on the choicest spots, other hikers started showing up. If you build it they will come.

Great campsite!

The mosquitoes were thin enough that we could eat dinner outside of our tents. Tonight turned out to be “the great Spicy Southwestern Skillet debate.” I tried to offer up a trade for Stowaway Gourmet Chili with Bear and Sassy because Bunny was scared of the “spicy” in the name of the meal. I tried to convince her this was Backpacker Pantry spicy which only means “not bland.” I was trying to work out a deal that if Bunny didn’t like the Spicy Skillet, she might be able to trade with Sassy or Bear for half of their chili. It turned out, neither were willing to part with the chili. Instead, they were carrying the same meal and decided to cook it as well, so if Bunny didn’t like our skillet, she could trade for theirs. Turns out, and I couldn’t get Bunny to say it directly, but, I was right. Spicy merely means not bland. She ate it. 

About 8, the skeeters came out in full force. We might have liked to stay up a bit longer (it’s hard to go to bed when the sun is still up). The little bastards can just make life miserable if they choose to. It was close enough to hiker midnight for us to all turn in. I don’t think Strider is used to going to bed so early.

EFG