Day 43, August 13, Mt Whitney—(15.2 miles)

I have never seen Bunny this high (and still be able to filter water)

Sweet cheeses! We awoke on time and even began hiking in the dark. Even if we don’t make it to Whitney we can say we have been to the mountain top. Please join in hymn (to the Eurythmics) 🎶Sweet dreams are made of cheese. Who am I to dis a Brie?” 🎶

This is it…looking back, maybe it wasn’t too dark when we started
The valley walls above us

Some might think climbing the tallest mountain in the lower 48 on Friday the 13th would give one pause. Even more pause if a storm is brewing and surrounding the mountain on 3 sides. But the omens were in our favor. Bunny woke up without hip or shoulder pain. I had to get up to pee in the middle of the night (only the 2nd time this trip). And, there was a hoot owl howling outside my window. (You caught me, we only have screens), but if the largest portion of the population can have an imaginary friend (with anger management issues) then I can believe in omens. 

Nearing the steep section
The trees below were the first portion of todays hike

The kicker for me was that I had to walk without hiking poles. We use a hiking pole tent which is single walled. It’s much lighter than a standalone tent which has its own pole set. There are some trade offs, condensation accumulates on humid nights and might drip on you or your gear, it’s harder to clean because you can’t lift it over your head to dump out dirt, and, if you leave it set up during the day, you have to sacrifice your hiking poles to keep the tent standing while you’re away. But the big plus is that it is more than a pound lighter (and much more spacious) than the closest freestanding tent. 

A crowd at the Whitney Portal junction
Skip the shelter in lightening…

The goal today is 15 miles (round trip). The 7.5 miles and 3700’ gain is divided into 3 parts: 1) to Guitar Lake along a tree covered stream, not much elevation gain, 2) to the trail junction with Whitney Portal Trail which has the majority of the climbing on an exposed, rocky trail, 3) to the top with a 1300’ gain in 2 miles with lots of steep fall possibilities. 

The altitude was taking its toll on me
A better view of Guitar Lake from high up…more like Cello Lake

By the time we made it to the Whitney Portal Junction, clouds were closing in from the west. I was afraid Bunny might get scared, but trail crews were out working and seemed unconcerned. I felt Mother Whitney would protect us because we talk to the trees in the forest and they have, surely, passed word ahead that we’re good people. 

Not too bad in this portion of upper section
Almost there!

The ballsyness of yesterday paid off. We found a can of fuel sitting on a pack in a ziplock bag with a picture of a Bunny drawn on it. Not only have we been forgiven for not picking up the hitchhiker on the way to Onion Valley, we’ve been tasked with paying generosity forward (not a strong suit for me, but I’m working on it). 

Made it!
Fist butt

Bear would not have proceeded with precipitous falls and a looming storm. I was considering turning back myself, but, get this, Bunny wanted to push on. There were still people in front of us and the work crews were still working…surely, they would know if danger was imminent. I did feel less confident walking along some of the exposed drops without hiking poles. I was also feeling the affects of altitude once we topped 14,000’. Our push to the top was 100% on Bunny power. 

Now you can see the storm that’s been chasing us all day
Pretty ominous (in my opinion)

We did keep eyes out for places to shelter in case of a storm. There aren’t caves, but there are large rock cavities where one or two people can duck in to get some protection. There is a stone shelter at the peak, but there are signs everywhere to avoid the shelter in a storm—the all metal roof might attract an errant strike. 

The line of the trail we have to recross
Whitney Portal…a lot of work to make this trail junction

Whitney is a major highlight of the trail. The east side is a straight drop down of several thousand feet (and, coincidentally, the only side not shrouded in storm clouds by the time we made it there). The mountain, itself, is so large that it caused the storm to split in two in order to pass. At no time we’re we actually under storm clouds even though they surrounded us. We always hiked under clear blue skies. 

Notice Bunny with poles and no pack
Bunny junction

It took us almost 7 hours to get to the top. We wanted to sit and enjoy the views, but the storm clouds to the west made us shorten the duration of our stay—why push our luck? We surveyed the path we had taken up and I dreaded retracing those steps. Some places were down right frightening to me, but Bunny doesn’t have the fear of heights that I do. That is my irrational fear for which she shows zero compassion while her irrational fear of storms is much more real because “you can die from a lightening strike!” (Compared to just getting a slight limp from a three thousand foot fall). 

From the upper section of trail
Dropping fast

Our pace picked up quite a bit once we started downhill. What had taken an hour and a half going up only took 45 minutes going down. We were almost all the way back to Guitar Lake in less than 2 hours, when we met “the family” who had camp set up. We ended up talking to them for over an hour about all of our experiences hiking. Brooklyn sat quietly on a rock watching us through her shades. She was so quiet, I thought she was bored. When we said we had to get going, Brooklyn said she was going to miss us. “Talking to us was way better than television.” 

“The Family”
Storm heading up to Guitar Lake

The rain finally caught up with us once we made it past Guitar Lake. This just gave us a bit more incentive to move faster. It wasn’t a hard rain, but consistent enough to soak us if we didn’t stop and put on our raincoats. Time was critical now. We wanted to make it back before dark for a couple of reasons: 1) we don’t like hiking in the dark. (Me, because you can’t see anything. Bunny, because scary creatures exist that will eat Bunnies). 2) we were worried about all the marmots and chipmunks around our tent. With so many people in the area, we didn’t feel comfortable leaving our food in the bear boxes, so we had kept all of our food inside our tent. As it was, something had chewed a small hole in the mesh near the head on my side of the tent. No food had been disturbed. 

Near the valley floor

It was dark and we were too tired to cook and eat outside of the tent. I made a bare-bones supper in the tent. Bunny barely stayed awake to eat it and she didn’t get up to brush her teeth afterwards. For my part, I skipped the tooth brushing as well. In fact, I didn’t do any food prep for morrow. It’s going to be a late start and slow going, but well worth it. 

EFG

Day 42, August 12, Crabtree Ranger Station, TM 1887.3–(8.7 miles)

We’re needing the end (this was supposed to say nearing the end, but autocorrect made it better)

This entry starts just like every entry from the Sierra…We were beat from yesterday. Forester with a heavy pack took it all out of me. Bunny’s hip kept her from sleeping peacefully, and, by the law of transitivity, I didn’t sleep well, either. We didn’t set alarms which allowed me to sleep until 8.

Nearing the Holy Grail of the PCT

The commotion started while it was still dark. We heard people getting ready while well before the sun was up. It wasn’t to the level of Koreans on the Camino who packed everything in plastic trash bags and then forgot which bag was which so they had to go through every bag (Camino de Santiago 2017) but it was close. It was still dark and we needed our beauty sleep. Ask anyone from my high school, I’ve been in desperate need of beauty sleep all my life. Need I say, we were last out of camp. The last ones to beat us out were the family of 5. We hit the trail at 10. 

High plains drifting

We took lots of breaks. While on one, we met old lady at the first creek crossing out of camp. She had just come over Forester this morning and she laughed that we were tired and taking an easy day. She took off and we never saw her again. I hated that old bitty. 

The highest point in the lower 48 is in sight

Rain clouds skirted us all day. I had no energy on climbs, but my pack was beginning to feel better. After today, we’ll lose another 2 days of food before we have to hike with packs again. (We will hike up Mt Whitney tomorrow so we can leave our camp all set up for the day-long side trip.) We’re hoping that will help us turn the corner.

Whitney ahead

The later part of today’s hike was across a high volcanic plain…shade was at a premium and water was scarce. We finally caught up to a couple of women who found both and were taking advantage of it. There was enough room for us to join them. I was a bit concerned because I recognized one of the girls as the blond that Bear wouldn’t pick up when we were driving to Onion Valley. We ended up playing hopscotch with them the rest of the day. 

Desolate area

When we made it to Crabtree Meadows, we asked if they were finishing up at Whitney. They said yes so we pulled the ballsiest move of or entire trip and asked if they had left over fuel—we misjudged how much we had and were very close to empty. I’d already made peace with them and explained how the people we were traveling with at the time didn’t like to pick up hitchhikers. (If your not with us, being thrown under a bus isn’t too painful.)

The backside of Whitney

We also ran into the “family” setting up camp when we made our final turn to Ranger Station. They are finishing up on Whitney as well but they don’t have to be done until the day after tomorrow. We said our goodbyes just in case we miss them. 

Our goal for the day

Camp was all set up by 4. I organized food for over an hour to get breakfast and lunch ready for tomorrow. Tonight’s supper was a colonic bonanza consisting of 3 Ramen, 2 Spam, and 2 fun size Snickers (sad size is more appropriate).

My work is never done

By gawd we’re doing it. We are setting alarm for 5 in the morning. We’re not hoping for sunrise on Whitney, but we do want to make it before the rain shows up. If we pull this off, this will be our earliest start since we made the foolish mistake of getting up at 4a on the AT to avoid hiking in the heat. That day was a bust because it was too hot to sleep and our schedules were messed up for several days after that. I’m sure everything will be fine on the highest mountain in the lower 48. 

We managed to find an isolated spot in the middle of things

EFG