Katahdin—it’s still a bitch

My memory of the climb was spot on. My impression of how I would do was 180 degrees off. It was so much tougher than I remembered my last climb of Katahdin. I thought I was falling apart then. I had just walked 2,187 miles to the base of the mountain. My knees hurt. I was mentally drained. I wanted cake. 

Turns out, compared to now, I was a physical god. After the first boulder field this time, I seriously wondered if I would survive. I found a shady spot, sat down, pulled out my phone, and deleted my browser history. 

My first night of camping on this journey

I made some tactical errors leading up to this day. About 3 months ago, I quit working out. About the same time, I started eating more. The one-two punch of dumbass. 

Up until my dad died in December, I was actually making gains physically through CrossFit and eating healthy. When he died, I was left alone to face my guilt from how I had not been a good son to him over the years combined with the failure of my second marriage. 

Not too far up the Hunt Trail you get the notice that you are entering Maine’s largest wilderness—don’t be a dumbass and you’ll be fine

I went into a depression which I tried to pretend didn’t exist. I still worked out, but half-assed (my natural level of effort in all things). I started drinking more. I tried to keep eating healthy, but my appeal for pizza grew while my fondness of avocados dropped. I put on 30# between my dad dying and me starting the trail. I’m lucky I made it to the top and down in a single day even if I set a new speed record for SFT (Slowest Fucking Time) at 14 hours 47 minutes. 

The goal for the day, Katahdin Summit and contemplation—didn’t happen because of the flies…click and go

I knew I had to make it to the top today come hell or high water. Today was my dad’s birthday. I thought about him all the way up except for the times where I made the further dumbass move of trying to keep up with people who were passing me. Misery usually likes diversion and conversation keeps the mind off of self analysis. 

Katahdin Stream Falls, I was still optimistic that I’d be done by 3p

Unlike my last ascent, I had blue skies. The weather said 80 degrees at the base and 60 at the summit with 5-10 mph breezes. In reality, it was over 80 at the summit (when I finally staggered up at 2:30p—7 1/2 hours after starting), no air movement at all, and unbearable flies. I started down as soon as I got a few pictures in. 

Only 1000’ to get over the shoulder

The plan was for George to pick me up at the base of the Hunt Trail around 4p. At 3p, I was only at Thoreau Springs a couple hundred feet below the summit. I was dehydrated from the unexpected heat. I forgot to throw in my electrolytes for the day. I was cramping like mad—even my hands. I kept dropping my poles when my hands got cramped. 

The crowd at the summit about a mile ahead of me

I could see a group ahead I had talked to on the way up. I knew the big guy had a trail name of “Cheers”. I was hoping they would rest long enough for me to catch up. Fortunately, they did. They were going down the Abol Trail which I was not interested in sliding down again. I did ask them to contact the ranger there to contact George to let him know I was, unfortunately, still alive and basically ok, just fat, slow, and way late. 

7.5 hours of climbing before I can claim that I’m about to start the AT

There had been over 30 people at the top. I had even been passed by 3 guys smoking and drinking beers on the way up. They were up and down almost a mile before they passed me a second time. That does wonder for the ego when the old guy gets lapped by these guys that aren’t even winded. 

Three guys that should be hiking the AT—they would crush it

By the time I got to the “gateway”, the last person from the summit passed me. It was almost 4:30 and I had the most arduous 2 miles of bouldering to go. I asked him to get hold of George and tell him not to expect me before 8. 

The view of Katahdin Peak from Thoreau Springs

Going down the shoulder and spur solo while being afraid of heights, dehydrated, and weak was no easy task for me. I started talking to my dad and asking him to keep me calm. I had not brought enough calories with me for this day. I also hadn’t brought my headlamp which George told me to. I told him if I’m still walking after dark, I shouldn’t be out here. Instead, I’ll be well after dark on the SECOND LONGEST DAY OF THE YEAR. 

We didn’t have any views in 2018

I would climb down 20-30’, rest, eat a date, swig some water, and repeat. I only had to do this another 400 times and I’ll be to tree line. That was my focus. I lost the “trail” a few times and was looking over an abyss I didn’t remember from the climb up. Thank goodness for FarOut to get me back on trail. I didn’t cry, but I wanted to because I was so tired. 

There was still a small patch of snow on the face of the mountain below

My biggest fear was having search and rescue come get me. I wasn’t in any danger, just fat, out of shape, and stupid—the hiking trifecta. Once I made tree line, I set my goal on water. I remembered the trail actually had a stream running down it not too much lower. The boulders were more manageable now and I could use both hiking poles to assist my descent. 

At the water, I camelled up, rested about 10 minutes, and set a new goal of Katahdin Stream Falls by dark. From the falls to the ranger station is less than a mile and a half, but actually a trail. I could probably manage hiking it in the dark. There’s also a pit latrine at the falls—worst case, I could sleep in the shitter if I decided I couldn’t go on. 

That’s still 2000’ down to tree line

I got the last glimpse of the mountains to the west in sunset just as I made it to the falls. I decided to not sleep with the turds at this time and continued on. As long as I wouldn’t look at my phone or turn on my phone flashlight, I knew I’d have good night vision if I would just walk slow (that’s been my pace all day—I’m golden there) and watch the ground. I asked my dad to magically propel me to camp to get the distance reduced. After tripping a few times, I decided to use my flashlight and check my position. My dad had come through. I was only 0.3 miles from camp. 

I sure didn’t expect to see sunset from Katahdin today

I signed the register at 9:36p and went to find George. Everyone had found him and told him I was running late. The ranger said since I had made contact a couple of times, they would not initiate a search and rescue unless George approached them. He had set in his mind that at 10 he was going to get the ranger and decide the next steps. I had made the cut to stay in the “pathetic” class instead of being thrown into the “must be rescued first day, go home” class of hikers. It used to be, when I was young and you got stopped by a train, there were two cars you always noticed—the engine and the caboose. Kids (by kids I mean anyone under 40) these days probably don’t even know what a caboose is. They better figure it out because there’s a caboose heading to Georgia. 

EFG

6 thoughts on “Katahdin—it’s still a bitch”

  1. Curtis – a rough start my friend – but you are a trooper and will hike yourself back into condition quickly. Sorry to hear about your Dad. Hope the rest of the journey gets better every day. The mountains are your happy place. Let us know when you are back in Virginia. We will be lifting you on prayer.

    1. Bob, great to hear from you. I can’t believe it’s been 6 years since the end of our Camino. I hope you’re all doing well. I’ll be in touch.

  2. Stay strong!! you can persevere through!!
    I know exactly what you mean with “good son” syndrome, felt guilty wasn’t able to make it up to see my mom as often as I should have, when was working 6 days a week. Then my family piled on with guilt.

    1. Yes, not my family piling on though, just me. My brother is going through the same thing.

  3. Curtis

    Just read this. Your parents did their best to raise you in the best way possible. They never expected anything in return. No parent should….they raise you to be a decent human being…and to “pass it on”….contribute and love. You should not feel guilty….parents prepare you and send you on to glorify God in any way that you can. You’ll always feel guilty….there could have been more visits….more time… but even then it’s never enough.

    Enjoy the memories!!! They’re precious and carry us….your dad was a caring, loving person….now you pass that on any way you can to all those you meet.

    God Bless man…

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