Day 22, Friday, July 23. Lyell Fork, YNP, TM 1722.4–(11.3 miles)

It was agreed that we would not leave Tuolumne Meadows until after the store was open. Even though the store, Post Office, and grille are very hiker friendly when they are in operation, they don’t have hiker friendly hours…at least for most hikers. We don’t mind sleeping in. The store doesn’t open until 9, but, they have a charging station and fresh brewed coffee. They don’t really have breakfast fare, so I made due with a beef, bean, and cheese burrito. 940 calories goes a long way on a level trail. Bear had a beef pie. Bunny and Sassy both ate conservatively—protein bars (no imagination).

Still civilized as we hike out

It turns out coffee and oatmeal might not be the most effective laxative. To save time, I had made use of the porcelain in the campground before the store opened, but the burrito/coffee combination proved to be potent and immediate. It was a very pleasant and enjoyable morning (the leisurely pace, not the double barrel, but that wasn’t all bad either). We headed out at 10:30.

Hard to believe Yosemite Valley was so dry with all this water

This was a pleasurable hike out. It was level for nearly 10 miles. The minute we turned on the trail, we saw another black tail doe with two fawns. They were so small, at first I thought it was a little dog running across the trail. We could see all three running, but if we hadn’t seen them enter the trees, we wouldn’t have been able to spot them. They blended In so well. 

Twins…of course, Bunny wants one

We’ve seen ground squirrels, prairie dogs, marmots, chipmunks, mule deer, black tail deer, hawks, snakes, all the usual suspects, but we still haven’t seen a bear. We’ve been out for almost 225 miles in the Sierra and are required to carry bear canisters. We’d like to see at least one (at a distance). When we’re out camping on the trail, I don’t worry about encountering them in camp. They are pretty timid. If they see something different than they expect, i.e, a tent, they usually avoid it. It’s when we get in large group settings that I get worried. While in Tuolumne Meadows, we made use of the bear boxes both nights. 

The usual suspects

There are many comments in Guthook that rangers are checking permits and bear canisters. We encountered several rangers in and around camp, but no one ever asked for anything. We just assumed that since the bubble has passed and the 4th of July holiday is old news, no one cared any more. In 4 years of hiking long trails, we’ve only been asked for permits twice and actually had to produce it once. Today, right after the junction of the John Muir Trail and the PCT, there were two volunteer rangers checking for permits and canisters. They didn’t look at them too close, because, if they did, we would have to be averaging 34 miles/day to be legal. In reality, we started a few days early and about 120 miles south of where we were supposed to. We will make up those miles after we get to Walker Pass. It’s all Bear’s fault for having to get off trail early to teach a college class for a new program he has created. 

Easy walking!

The walking was easy for 10 miles, so I had plenty of time for my mind to wander. This year is my 40th high school reunion. I won’t be attending as I had few friends who went to my school. I hung out with a few guys that were 3 years older than me. Just before we headed out here, I got together with a couple of friends that I had in high school and all the way back to 4th grade. It was great to catch up with Todd and Kevin. I doubt if more than 10 people from my class even remember me (I am Easily Forgotten for a reason). 

JMT & PCT junction

The reason I’m bringing this up is because last year when we were hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail, Todd told me my best friend from grade school, Joe, had committed suicide. From 1st to 8th grade, we were almost inseparable. The summer between 8th grade and high school, we had a falling out and said nasty things to each other (too much testosterone would be my guess). I always assumed that one day, we would be friends again. 

How can you not love this?

In high school, we didn’t talk at all. His mom died and I didn’t even know about it until a year after. He left our school in senior year. I never tried to make amends or reach out to him even after I found out about his mom’s death. Looking back, Joe was always in great shape. When we had our falling out, he said he’d kick my ass if we crossed paths again. I knew he could, easily, but, deep down, I knew he wouldn’t. Now I think of the few times he tried to reach out to me, and I didn’t recognize it. Like, when he’d sit behind me in church so we’d have to shake hands in the sign of peace. 

Multi use area, not the bear we thought at first glance

Joe killed himself almost a quarter century ago and I just found out last year. I contemplated contacting his brother, but I looked him up and he looked happy. I didn’t want to dredge up old pain for him. I just feel such a loss knowing that the best friend I had for 8 years needed help and I wasn’t there for him. He deserved better from me. He deserved batter from life. He was a great guy, maybe a little shy, but he deserved to be happy and live. I can’t make up for letting him down. I can only try to not make the same mistakes again. Hopefully, one day, I’ll get to see Joe again. I don’t really believe in life after death, but if it’s true, I will find him. 

Possibly, a storm coming in

Sometimes, easy walking can be a burden. I have time to relive my mistakes instead of enjoying the now. The last 2 miles of today were not of lot of enjoyment, but the struggle kept me in the now. Bunny’s hip bothered her a little today, but what really got her was the heat. We had some steep sections today with grades over 1000’/mile. She tried to go too fast and got overheated. I should have mixed up some more electrolytes for her to drink, but didn’t. I got her to slow down. About half way up the climb, she finally tried my trick of soaking her sun shirt in a creek and putting it on. It cooled her down enough that she handled the last mile without much effort (although she’d say different).

Time for a food break

Bear and Sassy found us a gorgeous camping spot below a snow field. We are camped at 10,200’. As soon as the sun went down, it started cooling off fast. With any luck, we’ll finish the climb up Donahue Pass in the morning before it gets hot. 

Donahue Pass looking down on our camp

We ran into lots of people today. Tuolumne Meadows is a popular spot. We met a woman who had just retired 2 weeks ago and was out doing a celebratory loop hike with her son and husband. We will be heading to Maine after we finish the PCT to have a similar celebratory hike with Peter and Marcia. They are our oldest hiking friends (meaning the couple we’ve known the longest). Marcia retired just before we started the PCT and we’ve been planning to hike the Hundred Mile Wilderness when/if she ever retired. 

Maybe we’ll get into some snow on the pass tomorrow

I’m a little somber today. I do have regrets in my life. I wish I could be a better person. I think of all the great examples I have: My dad is constantly saying he’s had a great life and he’s thankful for all he has. My brother-in-law is one of the few true Christians I have encountered in my life. I wish there were many more like him. I think of how positive Mizman (from the AT) is. I think of Good Chip Norris always being polite and thankful to everyone we met along the way. Bear and Sassy are always happy and positive. I’m lucky to have so many people of quality in my life. I wish I were more deserving of the luck I have.

EFG