Yo-Yo Caratunk to Stratton

Your dog knows best. When you’re out walking the dog, he just plows on through the mud and water. It’s best to just get it over and get your feet soaked. It’s takes more energy to avoid the mud and water than not. Your dog is wise. Your dog can be trusted—unless he spends and inordinate amount of time happily licking his own ass. 

Day 1, West Carry Pond Lean-to, 14.0

After catching the ferry to the south side of the Kennebec, I encountered rare dry trail. I have heard that I’ve got to get my feet wet at Pierce Pond outlet, but I can avoid the waist deep water if I take the bridge at Harrison’s Pierce Pond Camp. 

We stayed at Harrison’s in ‘21 and had the breakfast. Tim set out a plate of red (strawberry), white (apple), and blue (blueberry) pancakes in front of me. I assumed it was for the whole table and tried to take 1 of each. He stopped me and told me to eat them myself—everyone would get a plate full. Needless to say, we waddled up to the Kennebec then took a day off at Sterling Inn to recover from our food coma. I plan to repeat that process on my return trip next year. 

The falls along the outlet were flowing fast and strong. 17 falls in 4 miles. I was less than a half mile from Harrison’s when I had no choice—stream too wide and deep to get across dry. My pace picked up 1/2 mph once I got my feet soaked. 

It was a good thing too. I was trying to get in 14 miles today in the hope of meeting up with Mizman in Stratton. I’ve either got to hike this section in 3 days so we can spend a town day together in Stratton, or hike it in 5 days and camp the last night at Horn Pond. 3 is easily doable for young legs. I’m an old man carrying 6 days of food, just in case. 

From Pierce Pond Lean-to to West Carry Pond Lean-to is a relatively level 10 miles of only 30% flooded trail. I made my goal a bit after 6. 

There was already a NOBO down in the lean-to and another NOBO asleep in his tent in the middle of the flattest tenting area. There was also another group of camp girls in the other tenting area. I chose to set up as quietly as I could in front of the lean-to to take advantage of the infrastructure in camp, i.e. sitting spots. 

The girls group was having a lot of fun laughing and playing games. I did talk to the leaders about the experience the girls were having and how impressed I was with their morale. After I talked to them, I was even more impressed. 

Some of the girls have been coming to camp together since they were 7. This year, they’re 16. Each year they do a different activity (kayaking, canoeing, hiking, etc). Each year, the out of camp experience grows until their last year where they spend 22 days hiking on the AT. The camp isn’t really set up for backpacking, so they just put their heavy water gear in backpacks. They also don’t provide dehydrated food but use regular food. This means each girls pack weighs, on average, 65#. Some of these girls don’t even weigh 100#. They are badasses. 

My pack, with 3 days too much food, water, and everything else only weighs 32#, and I’m wanting to ditch weight. I pity the fool who tries to tell any of these girls they “can’t“ do something. I am super impressed with these happy, kick-ass, girls. The boys are a completely different matter. 

Day 2, Safford Notch Campsite, 12.6

I’m surprised at how well I’ve adjusted to hiking alone and without a plan. For the last 6 years, Bunny was always with me. The majority of the time we weren’t even 10 yards apart from each other. (Probably a big reason the marriage failed—too much time with me—I don’t like spending time with me either, but I’m locked in. It’s too much for mere muggles to handle.)

For a couple thousand miles, Bear and Sassy were with us as well. Bear handles all the planning. I handled all the worrying. I was like an Australian Shepherd watching the flock and worrying if someone was getting too far behind (usually me, I was the weak link and easily forgotten to boot). I felt like I had to herd everyone even though I didn’t. I was worried about Bunny’s hip, her pack weight, why she was pissed as me today, etc. If anything happened to anyone, I felt responsible. 

By myself, I don’t have to worry at all. I’ve got everything I need to survive. If I get lost, the worst case is I set up camp and figure it out in the morning. I don’t have to worry about someone getting hurt. It’s only me. If I fall or get swept away in a raging river, no one will even know for a week and then probably forget about it in a day or two. I am Easily Forgotten for a reason. 

Little Bigelow is a misnomer. It may be 700’ shorter than the two primary peaks, but this is a massive flat top mountain. The ridge undulates for a couple of miles before dropping to Safford Notch. Heading north, the way I have hiked twice before, you hit a half dozen false summits before finally reaching the high point. Heading south, you keep thinking “this is finally the descent leading to the notch!” It never is. 

Even though this was a shorter day in mileage than yesterday, it took me an hour longer to get to the campsite (which is 0.3 miles off trail). All the campsites that I knew of, were occupied. One guy, hammocking over a platform for tents, told me there was another section of flat spots about 0.1 miles further. I didn’t know this area even existed. I had a huge flat area all to myself with nice seating and a tent platform to watch the sun set from. 

Day 3, Maine Roadhouse, Stratton, 10.4

I woke up early today because I knew this was going to be a tough one even though I’ve only got a little over 10 miles. Statistically, this day, on paper is very similar to climbing Katahdin—10.4 miles total, 3500’ of ascent, 4000’ of descent vs 10.4 miles with 4200 ascent and descent. The only difference is this is a trail all the way vs 7 miles of boulder scramble. 

Starting out with nearly 2000’ straight up took its toll on me. I told myself I was going slow to enjoy the experience when, in reality, I was going as fast as my lungs would allow. I feel a bit stressed trying to maintain a schedule, but I’m glad to get to spend time with Mizman. Originally, I was planning on doing this section in 4 days, not 3. 

Today was another perfect day in Maine. Not only did I have amazing views from both Bigelows and the South Horn, I managed to hike all day without getting my feet wet. This is a first on the trip. I won’t say the trail was easy, but I will say the mountain was very accommodating. The trail was well laid out yet still challenging. I love Maine and the MATC. 

I was hoping to get to the trailhead the same time as Mizman, but as slow as I was descending from Horns Pond, I was certain he would be long gone. I called Jenn for a shuttle and she told me to hold tight for a few minutes and she’d be there at 5:45…that’s what time she was picking up Mizman. 

I crossed the highway and walked up to the trail heading south just as Mizman emerged from the woods. 

EFG