No-Yo The Smokies

I was apprehensive about my second pass through the Smokies in a month

  • 02/03, Sa, Mollies Ridge Shelter 12.0
  • 02/04, Su, Derrick Knob Shelter 12.1
  • 02/05, Mo, Mt Collins Shelter 13.0
  • 02/06, Tu, Peck’s Corner Shelter 15.2
  • 02/07, We, Cosby Knob Shelter 12.9
  • 02/08, Th, Standing Bear Farm 10.4

Total miles to date: 2457.2

Cammerer Fire Tower at north end of GSMNP

When I came through the Smokies on my SOBO leg, conditions were “less than ideal” to say the least. I entered the Smokies on the last day of ‘23 and only hiked 7.5 miles to spend the night in Cammerer Fire Tower. Even with the short distance walked, it was exactly like my childhood walks to school in the winter—uphill, in the freezing cold, and snow (both ways).

Childhood memories of my walk to school

I hit snow and sub-freezing temperatures about 3 miles into my journey and conditions stayed that way for the next 6 days. For three days, the high temperature never even got above 20. I was prepared for the cold temperatures, but that doesn’t mean I like them. I walked on snow and ice for over 70 miles. The only break was for about a mile when I dropped down below 5000’ at New Found Gap. 

I spent my New Year’s Eve in Cammerer Fire Tower—it would have been better if all the windows were in place

I was leery of a repeat of my SOBO traverse. It didn’t help that when I was at the NOC, another hiker I had met while I was heading south, texted me and told me he and his group bailed at New Found Gap because the snow was waist-deep. 

The south entrance to GSMNP is just past Fontana Dam

The snow we had been dealing with in NC had changed back to rain and the temperatures were well above freezing again—sometimes even reaching 40. I checked the long term forecast for Clingman’s Done (the tallest mountain in the Smokies) and the temperatures were above freezing even at night which meant the rain was still rain and not additional snow. It looked like I might get lucky (weather-wise, no luck with women. Don’t go to a sausage party to pick up a woman.)

Turbo has to be THE LAST SOBO from last year’s class

I was the first to leave the bathroom. Fog is not an early riser. Coming from me, that says a lot. It was a gorgeous day and already almost 50. Things were looking a lot better than my last traverse. In fact, on this trip, unlike my last one, the temperature would never drop below freezing (even at night) for the entire time I was in the Smokies. I still walked on a fair amount of snow and ice, but, overall, much less this time. 

Remnants of a military plane crash from last century

About 6 miles in, I ran into a young lady whose phone had died. She asked to borrow my phone to call a hostel to pick her up later. As we started talking, she started to realize who I was. I was surprised that she knew me by name. This was Hungry Bird. 

Typical shelter in the Smokies (not pictured—the mice)

Hungry Bird got her name from the phrase “the early bird catches the worm.” She, too, is not an early riser. No worm = hungry bird. She started about a month before I did last year, but she has been enjoying her time on trail. She’s been hiking with two brothers she met when she started her flip flop. So far, she has taken over 70 zeros (eclipsing our 55 zeros when we thru-hiked in ‘18). 

Foggy on my first pass kept visibility down (and bowels in tact)

While we were talking, Fog caught up with us which led to more conversation. My planned 17 mile day was quickly reduced to a 12 mile day. It’s my intention to not do any night hiking in the Smokies because I don’t want to run the risk of getting caught out with an unpredictable weather change. 

Even though warm, with wind at elevation things can seem a bit bleak

I didn’t actually run into any snow until my second day in the Smokies. Once I got to Rocky Top, the snow had melted and refrozen to a nice ice pack. I could have hiked without my micro spikes, but it would be slower going. Since I’m carrying them, I might as well use them. 

The trail through the Smokies is amazing. For miles and miles, the trail follows a narrow ridge no more than 5’ wide. On my SOBO traverse, I had poor visibility; often no more than 30’. That means, even though I could see the mountain quickly falling away from the trail, I didn’t have a strong feeling of exposure. With the clear days of my second pass, I definitely felt the steepness and was quite nervous for long stretches at a time. 

Clingman’s Dome

I tried to keep my mind off of the exposure by going through my ancestor meditation where I try to remember everyone I’ve ever known who has died. I’ve been doing this daily for several months now. 

When I run out of dead people to remember, I compose my list of requirements for any future woman that could end up in my life. I narrowed it down to 5 qualities I’m looking for: 

5) a love of nature—l spend a lot of time hiking. Combined with all the bad financial decisions I’ve made in my life, sleeping on the ground is a big part of my future, so any woman is going to need to have a strong love of the outdoors. 

New Found Gap completely devoid of snow

4) she must be sexually turned on by a man with low self esteem—not repulsed by low self esteem might be an acceptable alternative, but sexually turned on would sure save a lot of begging time. 

3) she must have low self esteem, but not be bitter about it. I don’t want “it’s about time somebody noticed!” I’d rather have “thank you for noticing.” 

This is something I didn’t see on my first pass—actual trail!

2) she must have, or quite recently had, a pulse. There are some lines I won’t cross and necrophilia seems to be one of them. Although it’s been quite a while so who knows what depths I might sink to…let’s just put a pretty defined dashed box around this one and move on. 

1) is actually a tie between poor eyesight and very low standards. After all, the prize is me. Both of these qualities are an absolute must. 

And like that…I’m out of the Smokies

By the time I go through these exercises on a daily basis, I have managed to move past the danger zones. My time in the Smokies has made me realize just how beautiful North Carolina actually is. In fact, I have moved NC up to my number 2 favorite state on the AT. If I ever happen to stumble onto that bag of drug money some cartel has hidden in the woods, I would absolutely include western NC in my home search. Until then, I’m scouting for possible hidden spots to build a primitive home to share with bears (hopefully a very near sighted bear that likes to spoon—the rest of the conditions should be no problem except I’d probably need to add “the absence of mange.”)

EFG

No-Yo North Carolina

Making progress heading back north.

  • 01/26 Fr Muskrat Creek Shelter 11.8
  • 01/27 Sa Carter Gap Shelter 12.5
  • 01/28 Su Chica & Sunset’s 15.9
  • 01/29 Mo Chica & Sunset’s, Franklin ZERO
  • 01/30 Tu Cold Spring Shelter 15.8
  • 01/31 We NOC 11.5
  • 02/01 Th Stecoah Wolf Creek 13.9
  • 02/02 Fr Fontana Hilton Bathroom 15.2

Miles to date: 2381.4

Entering NC on my return north

I entered NC on a bright, sunny, warm day. That was the weather high point because it deteriorated from there. The second day was continuous rain. I originally planned to hike further than Carter Gap Shelter, but I made the mistake of stepping out of the rain. Fog, who I’d met at Around the Bend Hostel was already there with the same intention of moving on. 

The Gnarled Oak is a famous tree on the NC state line
Red sky at night…everything should be fine

The longer we talked, the harder it rained. We both gave up on the idea of progress. 6p is a great bed time on a rainy day. I didn’t think I was sleeping but I rolled over and Fog was standing over me dripping water. “How did you get so wet?” “From walking in the rain!” It wasn’t Fog, it was another hiker. 

Make no mistake—monsters live on the trail! He was very aggressive! Fortunately, he was slow and only 3” long

Night Shift is the third hiker I’ve met this year who is attempting the “calendar year triple crown” (that’s thru-hiking the AT, PCT, and CDT all in one year—7800 miles total). I’m only hiking 5000 miles in 15 months. 

A touch of snow is charming

Overnight, the rain turned to snow and the wind picked up significantly. No surprise that we were all slow getting going in the morning. I was already planning on staying at a hostel for the night and I told Night Shift about it. He decided to “waste” a day and only hike 16 miles—he’s averaging 25/day for now but will have to increase that over time. 

Not as charming

I make a couple of hot water bottles every night in cold weather. A 1 liter to sleep with and a 1/2 liter to put in an insulated lunch box to keep my fuel, electronics, and water filter from freezing. On cold days, like today, I reheat the 1/2 liter bottle and carry it under my coat to keep my core temperature up and to quickly warm my hands when they get cold. I kind of panic if I lose feeling in my hands. I only mention this because of an incident with my 1/2 liter bottle. 

Calendar Year Triple Crowner (potentially), Night Shift

Night Shift decided to walk slow so we could share the ride into the hostel. Even with him taking his time and stopping for me to catch up, he still beat me to the trailhead by a good 15 minutes. I was so relieved when I got there and saw the waiting car that I started undoing my pack so I could throw it in and get warm. 

We were made very welcome at Chica & Sunset’s

When I started to pack up to leave after my zero in Franklin, I couldn’t find my 1/2 liter bottle. I looked all over the apartment, checked the car, even looked outside for it, but it was gone. When we got back to the trailhead, we checked on the trail to see if I had dropped it there. 

Wayah Bald observation tower

It was another cold day and I really would have liked it full of boiling water between my coats. I ran into another “section hiker” (just out for a week) and he told me he had stayed with Fog last night and he was only about an hour ahead of me. I normally don’t like to share shelters, but when conditions are this bad, I don’t mind sharing the misery. 

Fog on a clear day

When I arrived at Cold Spring Shelter, Fog was already there and asked me if I had lost anything. He went into the outfitter to buy his own Nalgene bottle and a worker asked him if he had lost one. Fog said he hadn’t, but he knew a guy who had a blue half liter bottle that might have gotten lost. The guy ran home to grab the bottle he had found near the trailhead the day before. Fog presented me with my bottle already filled with hot water. The trail provides!

The Smokies are in sight
Some fresh snow overnight

Fog and I walked around each other for the 3 days and stayed in the NOC and the Fontana bathroom together. It was starting to warm up by the time we made it to the Fontana Dam, but I had talked up how nice and warm the floor of the bathroom was that he decided to carve out his spot near the heater. 

Lonnie at Stecoah Gap

When I had come out of the Smokies in early January, I had had 6 full days where the temperature never got above freezing. I needed relief even if it meant sleeping on a pee dripped on floor next to a toilet (as long as it was heated). It was the first night I had been able to get up to perform my “old man perimeter check” without freezing my ass off. That bathroom will always have a special place in my heart. 

First class accommodations for the night

EFG