The rain never materialized except for about an hour of heavy downpour. If you can’t handle an hour of rain, you probably shouldn’t be out here. I did enjoy a day of rest and watching “Slumdog Millionaire” again.
Day 1 (59), Hexacuba Shelter, 14.6
I got up in the middle of the night (for some unknown reason) and the sky was completely clear. That’s why I was so surprised when I got up at 7 to see everything clouded over and it looking like rain. I decided to just take my time with breakfast and packing to see what would happen. I’m already a day behind schedule, so what’s another day going to do?
Break Away checked the forecast and told me with confidence that there wouldn’t be any rain today. If you can’t trust a Marine Colonel, who can you trust? I chatted a while but still got out of the hostel by 8:30.
Not even 2 miles out I ran into a really nice old guy (by old, I mean even older than me). We stopped, talked, and clicked instantly. I thought he was from England, but he forgave me my mistake when he told me he was from Australia. This was his 140th day on the trail. Also his 140th day of not doing laundry. He showed me why you shouldn’t accept trail names with someone else in partnership—he was hiking with his son named Strength. Together they are Mental, Strength. His son is a few days behind (pink blazing, I think). Now this guy is running around the woods coming up to people and saying “I’m Mental.”
I had forgotten how beautiful the trail is from Hanover to Moosilauke. Or, maybe I was in so much pain (knee and plantar fasciitis) that I just didn’t look up and notice. At any rate, this is a fabulous dirt track that’s easy on my feet. It also doesn’t hurt that there aren’t any climbs over 2000’ for a while.
Before I was able to start my hike, I watched a lot of current year vloggers on YouTube. As I was nearing the top of Cube Mountain, I ran into one that I had been watching: Ranger. We chatted for a bit about our experiences on trail.
Right at the summit of Cube, I came across a guy in very colorful dress carrying a tea pot. He was friendly enough but something seemed a bit off, until I realized he was a bit stoned. This was Smoke Master. He’s making it part of his journey to spread peace, happiness, and love with everyone he meets on his journey by sharing a smoke. This is a very noble cause. Of course I gave him my full support.
Day 2 (60), Trapper John Shelter, 12.0
It’s a good thing I didn’t listen to my Republican friends in Decatur, IL. They suggested I carry a gun with me. If I had been foolish enough to do so, I would be writing this submission from prison (if they would let me keep my phone). The guy next to me in the shelter snored all night long…on both breaths; in and out. Luckily, I had decided to sleep with my hiking poles lying next to me. About every 15 minutes, I would grab a pole and poke him. It was dark enough that he couldn’t see where the pole was coming from. Needless to say, I’m done with shelters unless I have 50mg of Benadryl or I’m by myself.
I’m glad it was a short day for me. It wasn’t supposed to be. If I put in 17 miles today, I’ll be back on schedule. I’d actually like to build up a couple extra days of cushion because there’s some new hostels in CT I’d like to check out. I was just dragging too much today from lack of sleep to put in a big day.
I realize I’m suffering from survivor guilt. I’ve been dealing with it ever since my sister died 31 years ago. It’s only intensified since my dad’s death this past December. My sister was a nurse, very outgoing, and loved by all. She had two wonderful young daughters (neither of which will let me live in their basements—when I told them I was going to live in one of their basements, they both bought slab houses). It made no sense for her to die at 38. It still doesn’t make any sense to me. She’s been dead longer than she was my sister, but I still think about her nearly every day.
I still wonder about the way I handled stuff with my dad at the end. In between hospital stays last year when he was having a pretty lucid day, I took him for a ride so we could talk. I told him I knew he was suffering with his strained breathing. He had to focus 100% of his effort to just breathe. I told him not hold on for us. We’re all in stable positions and we’ll be fine. I told him I didn’t want him to die, but I also didn’t want to see him suffer. In less than 2 weeks, he was dead.
When my brother and I made the decision to go to comfort measures, the Dr was very understanding and compassionate. He reminded us we weren’t killing our dad—the COPD was. He promised dad wouldn’t suffer. In the final hours, my dad started getting restless and rolling around in the bed. I went and got the nurse and demanded she increase his fentanyl so he wouldn’t be in pain. This still haunts me that I did this, but I couldn’t watch the misery.
Whoever says it’s beautiful to be with someone when they die is FOS. It’s the most gut wrenching thing I’ve ever done. I knew it was coming—I was watching his breathing, heart rate, pulse ox, holding his hand, and talking to him. I knew he was dying and there was nothing I could do to stop it. I’d have gladly traded places with him. He was a good and gentle man. It makes no sense to me that my dad and sister are gone while I’m still here.
Day 3 (61), Velvet Rocks Shelter, 15.2
I finally had a good night of sleep. I haven’t slept well since I stealth camped on Mt Wolf and it rained all night long. Last night, I got my new sleep system all figured out. If I can put in 15 today, I’ll be back on schedule.
In short, I got 2 firsts today—1) I hiked my first 15 mile day of the year, and 2) I didn’t wear any knee supports. I’ll still carry my supports in case my knees start to hurt again, but the steepest and longest climbs are behind me (for now). I’ve actually got several days planned in the 15-20 mile range in the next month with even a 20+ thrown in for good measure. I’ll have to average over 17 miles/day starting in October to be able to finish by Christmas.
The NOBOs are starting to thin out a bit. A few days ago, I was running across more than 25 every day. Today it was down to the mid-teens. By the time I get out of Vermont, I should pretty much have the trail to myself. That alone should be good for a 5 mpd increase—I easily spend a couple hours every day talking to people I pass. Maybe I can get the mileage I need without having to get up earlier.
Day 4 (62), Hanover, 1.5
It amazes me that this shelter is so close to town. We are actually above houses directly below us but we can’t see them because of the trees. In reality, I could throw a rock and knock a hole in someone’s roof—oh to be a young delinquent again.
I woke up, without an alarm (mind you) right at 6. I’d already set the water last night for my coffee (note to self: trail invention that’s needed is a timed ignition for my jet-boil). I still had my honeybun, pop tarts, sausage links, and instant coffee before I headed into town for second breakfast at Lou’s Bakery.
I’m going to back track a bit here. DOC (Dartmouth Outdoor Club) maintains the trail from the other side of Moosilauke all the way to Hanover. In general, they are doing a fantastic job…the further from Hanover you are. Maybe it’s the locals topping off the privy (it’s only a mile out from the soccer field) but I actually felt myself grow in height, while sitting, this morning. The half height privy door was a nice architectural accoutrement—cudos for that, but it’s time to dig a new hole and move a few feet away from the present location.
I plan to stay in Hanover long enough to get all the free food available (free donut at Lou’s and Pizza at Ramunto’s), resupply, shower, and do laundry. I will be in a new state (other than confusion) by the end of this day.
I’d met Warren and Sock Pile in Grafton Notch and we’ve been bumping into each other ever since. They were staying at The Notch while I was staying at Snowchasers Ski Lodge, but we made plans to meet at the Mexican restaurant for supper. I had gotten everything done on my Nero so I can have full day of rest on Monday.
The only task I still had on my agenda for Monday was to get pizza. I decided it could wait until after I went to a movie—Oppenheimer. On Sunday, the movie started at 12:30 so I figured the times would be the same on Monday. When I arrived at 12:15, the doors were locked…the first movie today was at 3:30. I guess I had time for pizza.
In my free time yesterday, I walked around town a bit. I had convinced myself I could live here in the future. I never found a CrossFit or an Indian Restaurant, but there was a Thai Restaurant that had curries. Today, I crossed Lincoln off my list. There weren’t any pizza places open on Mondays. I had McDonald’s followed by a glass of local wine (supposedly of Sauvignon Blanc). The wine solidified my “I’m not living in Lincoln” opinion.
Day 1 (55) Lonesome Lake Hut, 3.0
It started raining just as I was waking up at 6. It rained hard. It destroyed my desire to hike for the day. I thought at least I have one more chance for pizza. Screw Lincoln—no pizza on Mondays or Tuesdays! I had a sub and was ready to get out of town.
Colin dropped me at the Franconia Notch trailhead parking lot about 1:30. I made my final adjustments and was off. At the end of the side trail leading back to the AT, I met Anna and Rick giving out trail magic. I stopped and talked to them while I had a cookie and a tangerine. Rick wants to hike the AT at some point in time but they like to connect with hikers in the meantime while they day hike. I also met Triple B, another SOBO.
It was after 2 by the time I actually started hiking. Triple B had said he was going to try for “work for stay” at Lonesome Lake Hut. At the rate I was going, I’d arrive there right around 4. If there was only one spot, I’d let him have it, but I wouldn’t mind a free hot meal.
Up on Franconia Ridge, a group of NOBOs tried to scare me with the “sketchy” water crossings between Franconia Notch and Lonesome Lake Hut. I made it across both streams without even getting the soles of my shoes wet. If they think these are difficult crossings, they’re going to “love” Maine.
I arrived at the hut just at 4. Triple B was sitting outside and told me no other hikers had shown up. We went inside and secured our spots. On the one hand, I was dragging a bit today, so I didn’t mind stopping so early. The only problem is that I just put together a schedule so my friend, David, can meet and hike with me for a couple of weeks next month. This early stop has already screwed up my schedule. This is why I hate to make plans—they don’t stick.
Day 2 (56) Stealth Campsite on Mt Wolf, 9.5
They want us to get up by 6:15 to get out of the dining room before the paying guests start coming in for breakfast. Apparently, it’s unappealing for guests to see naked, smelly hiker butts on the breakfast table—go figure. I ate my breakfast—an avacado, a low cal honeybun (only 540 cal) and some beef jerky. I was hiking by 7.
Triple B told me I amazed him by the way I sleep. It seems I still snore, but I do stop snoring to fart in my sleep, but immediately start snoring after release. My autonomic systems are still in place and fully functional.
I’m nearing the end of the Whites, but I’ve still got a couple of mountains I’ve been dreading—the Kinsman’s. It’s only 2 miles to the peak of North Kinsman with a 1500’ climb. It’s not the up I’m worried about. It’s the decent down South Kinsman which is 2000’ in a mile and a half. I remember the climb up as bad. I’m hoping my trend of faulty memory and over imagination of the climb up continues.
The climb down was not nearly as bad as my memory had it. I climbed down in the rain without incident. The bigger problem was the Borg Bog I encountered. It was impossible to cross without being assimilated. When I caught up with Triple B at lunch—he had also been assimilated.
The rain had started at the peak of South Kinsman and didn’t stop for the rest of the day. The climb up North Kinsman was hot and humid. At first, the rain felt good but I was getting quite cold when I stopped for lunch. After lunch, I tried to climb up Mt Wolf quickly to generate heat, but my lack of cardio prevented me from reliably generating the heat I was hoping for.
After summitting Mt Wolf, I just couldn’t get warm. It was already 5 and the last forecast I saw called for thunderstorms after 7. I decided if I found a good stealth spot with water nearby, I’d take it. Right away, I found a stream and stealth site 0.7 miles past summit of Mt Wolf. I set up my tent, got water, dried off and cooked. I had no desire to be walking down mountain in a storm.
Day 3 (57) Jeffers Brook Shelter, 12.3
Like Lionel Ritchie sang, it rained “all night long.” When I looked out my tent, I didn’t remember camping so close to a stream. It slowly dawned on me—that’s the trail.
Not too far down the trail, a Forest Service Volunteer asked where I camped last night. I told him I found a stealth camp when it was apparent I couldn’t make it to the next shelter before dark. I was cold, tired, and done for the day. He gave me the forest rules for wild camping (of which I was not compliant) and told me I would get a $500 fine if ranger catches me.
I didn’t really want a LNT lecture this morning. I only stealth in existing spots even if those spots are not LNT compliant. I still think it’s less impact than me traipsing through the woods trying to find a suitable spot. But more importantly, I had not bothered to dig a hole knowing that there was an outhouse a mere 4 miles ahead in a mostly downhill trajectory..I was urgently brown blazing and needed to move on.
My inner voice has been remarkably silent for the last few weeks. I made some concessions in the hope of peace, but I also made the decision I want to be a happier more positive person. So far, it’s been working, but I think the somberness of the rain rewoke him/it for a while today. I didn’t engage and after a mile or so, with me consciously focusing on the present/forest, my mind quieted down.
Or maybe it was the climb up the north side of Moosilauke that did it. I had forgotten how steep this climb was. Admittedly, I hiked down this on a dry day and didn’t climb it on a rainy day, but it wasn’t that bad today.
I was getting chilled after eating lunch. I had run across enough NOBOs to know the summit of Moosilauke was a bit harsh today. I donned my raincoat and continued up.
I summitted Moosilauke at 4p with 40-50 mph sustained winds with gusts up to 70 mph. It was a heavy mist or slight rain—I’d have to get a Scotsman to give me the proper grading. As an Englishman would say, it was a bit brisk and moist. Visibility was under 30’.
The hike down the other side was much more pleasant. I had decided to camp at the shelter just before Hikers Welcome Hostel and try to hike in tomorrow before the rain starts. Warren and Sock Pile were at the shelter when I arrived.
Day 4 (58) Hikers Welcome Hostel, 1.1
I’ve heard nothing other than “stay off the mountain tops on Friday…it’s going to rain and storm all day” for the last couple days. I succumbed to the fear mongering just as I got back on schedule to meet David.
Sock Pile got up early which really surprised me. I thought they were going to Hikers Welcome today, too. He left the shelter before 6:30 while his dad continued sleeping. When Warren woke up, he told me they were going to meet up again in Hanover.
I was awake so I just packed up and walked the final mile and a half to the hostel. When I left the shelter, I had one little PUD to go over, but it turns out this wasn’t your ordinary PUD. When I came down the other side, everything was completely different. Just like that, I was out of The Whites.
My gambit pays off—by taking a zero at Garfield Ridge Campsite, I have a beautiful day on Franconia Ridge!
Rain creates converts. Several NOBOs came in to the Outdoor Center for the night: Thorn (from StL), OG, Sweet Tea, Captain BG (who’s just trying to “stay alive, stay alive”) all got bunks for the night and took advantage of the AYCE buffets. The one thing that I didn’t get was that they all got up early, packed up, and left right after breakfast while it was still raining. The forecast called for clearing conditions in the afternoon. The furthest anyone was going was Lake of the Clouds—even I hiked that in a bit more than half a day.
One of the volunteers, Gail, showed me LL Bean equipment room. This is a great deal that the AMC and LL Bean have put together. Anyone that stays at an AMC hut, campsite, lodge, etc. can borrow any of the equipment they need for their outing—free of charge! This includes: tents, rain gear, sleeping bags, boots, snowshoes, etc. They have sizes ranging from toddlers to full grown adults. Talk about a great way to test out the waters before diving in and buying all your gear.
LL Bean initially gave the AMC $400K worth of gear and keeps checking in yearly and offering up to $50K more. I’ve always heard Bean was generous, but this is amazing. Remember, the AMC is just one organization that Bean helps out.
Before I headed out in the afternoon, I took advantage of another AMC thru-hiker special…beer, soup, and bread for $6. Show your card to get the special. A beer is $6, so they give hikers soup and bread for free. I didn’t want to have a beer knowing how much climbing I was going to be doing so I asked for a Coke instead. They told me to take 2.
While I was downing my lunch, I heard a man having a conference call in the back of the dining room. When he got finished, I went over to talk to him. This was the executive director of AMC Outdoor Center. I introduced myself as a thru-hiker. He braved himself for some complaints and was caught a bit off balance when I thanked him for what the AMC is doing for thru-hikers. I fessed up about being Angry Andy in the past, but now that I see all the AMC is doing, I’m impressed. He thanked me and wished me a safe and successful hike.
I had to make a few final adjustments to my pack which I was doing in the lounge area while waiting for the AMC shuttle to take me to the trailhead. While I was in line for supper last night, I had started talking to a woman named Cassandra who was part of a family group wanting to climb Mt Washington. She recognized me and introduced me to her husband, Chris, and his father, Jersey Jerry. This was an entire family trip for Jerry’s sons and grandkids to introduce one of the younger grandkids to hiking in the Whites, but with the weather being what it was, they decided to ride the cog rail to the summit rather than ruin any chances for his granddaughter liking hiking. On their way out, Jerry gave me a beautiful peach from their orchard in New Jersey. He claimed that it was just a #2 peach, but it was beautiful, unblemished, and delicious.
Stitch, who had magic at Pinkham Notch, was also in the lounge. I was able to talk to her one on one once everyone else was gone. She thru-hiked in 1999. She’s also hiked a lot of the international trails that I’ve hiked. She’s up in NH for the month to enjoy the outdoors when she’s able (she suffers from CFS) and give magic to hikers on days where her energy levels are too low to do anything else.
Day 1 (49), Zealand Falls Hut, 7.7
I caught 12:55 shuttle back to trailhead. It’s a 0.3 mile walk from the road to the trailhead. As I was walking up the lane, I saw a man with some writing on his shirt. From my quick glance, I picked up “understand women.” This must be an old wise man worth listening to. When I stopped to read the shirt entirely it said “Let’s go have a beer, discuss things, and try to understand women”—his wife told me he was still just an apprentice.
Just at the trailhead, I found more magic. Some angel had left a bunch of bananas, snickers, and oranges. I grabbed a snickers and a banana for a snack in a few miles. I’ve still got almost all the food I started with when I left Pinkham Notch 6 days ago…I’ve gotten magic at the huts, I’ve had a work for stay, the AMC gives us a free soup and 2 free baked goods with our pass, and I’ve stayed at the Highland Canter. If I keep going at this rate, I may not even need to resupply in Lincoln.
When “Notch” is in a place name, this is not good. In NH, this means you have at least 2500’ climb in and out of the Notch. Today, after 2 good night’s sleep, 4 AYCE meals, and 2 soup and beer deals, I was feeling in top form.
My knees aren’t hurting, the weather is pleasant, and I’ve gotten magic. I was flying uphill. I was even passing people (I should clarify, I was passing people heading in the same direction I was headed. Granted, one group was 3 men older than me, and another pair included an 8 year old with a pack, but I smoked their asses!).
Around 3 miles in is Nathan Pond. It’s about a quarter mile off trail but I was feeling so good, I decided to head to the shelter to take a break. Shelters are generally good places for breaks because you can sit down, there’s usually water close by, you can read the log book, and, just in case, there’s always some sort of privy near. Sometimes, in the morning, in a crowded campsite, I can feel a bit rushed in my routines—same goes for bunkhouses with limited porcelain access.
I’m hiking more blue blazes this trip. Not alternate routes, but out and backs to scenic views or special features. Today, I hiked out to Thoreau Falls where I met Nico. We hiked together the final 2 miles to Zealand Falls Hut. Nico is a great kid, only 47 (in my new playbook, anyone under 50 is a kid). Nico is also an EE but more programming oriented. He’s originally from France but has been in US since he was 24.
We arrived at Zealand Falls Hut right at 6. Not too far from the hut, we passed a couple of NOBOs who told us they still had work for stay open. I was going to go a little further, but a free hot meal did sound appealing. I checked and got a spot. Nico went on (he was just out for a few days). We said our goodbyes and he took off.
All totaled, today I hiked 7.7 miles in 4.5 hrs which still included a couple of breaks and several conversations—promising. That’s about 1.5 mph. I might be able to get bigger miles some day.
Day 2 (50), Garfield Ridge Campsite, 9.8
The good thing (and bad thing) about work for stay is that you get up early. I was hiking before 6:30. I took the blue blaze to Zeacliff—this was where I was going to stay last night if I hadn’t gotten the work for stay. There were gorgeous stealth sites up there and water near the trail junction. I’ll remember this for my return trip.
It’s only 7 miles from hut to hut today. I stopped at Galehead Hut for a snack, hoping they’d still have some baked goods available, but they were out. They told me they had been busy all morning. I could tell by the number of NOBOs I passed on the way here. I’ve lost count, but it was well over 20. The second bubble has arrived. I imagine everything will be crowded for the next week or two.
I was delaying heading up to Garfield Campsite because this is the section of trail that finished off my knees in 2018. I’ve got visions of the climb down the waterfall from then and I’m not looking forward to the climb, now. On paper, it’s only 500’ in 0.3 miles, but in memory, it’s much worse.
As I was passing everyone, I was asking how the waterfall/trail ahead was. Several people told me it was beyond their abilities, but I pointed out they were unharmed and still walking. They must have underestimated their abilities. I started telling myself the same. It turns out, I believe there has been work done on this section of falls. I didn’t remember steps being present before. It really wasn’t that bad. It took me less than 1/2 hour to climb up to the side trail to the campsite.
While I was getting water (from the trail) I met a NOBO that was originally from Southern Illinois and now lives in St Louis. That makes a total of 4 of us out here. This was “15 Cent”, the less prosperous cousin of 50 Cent.
A lot of people were heading in at the same time. I quickly talked to the camp attendant and got a spot on the platform. As soon as I set my tent up and got inside, it started raining. I followed the rules by cooking and eating in dining tent with 10 other NOBOs. They were somewhat cliquish, but that’s understandable after 1800 miles.
There must have been well over 30 people here last night. I tried to follow the rules, but I hate leaving my food in bear boxes that are so far from my tent. I slept with my food in my tent (as I usually do). I’m a bad boy.
Day 3 (51), Garfield Ridge Campsite, ZERO
It stormed last night. This is the highest I’ve camped at during a thunderstorm. I’m at 4300’. When the lightening started, I got woke up by the thunder. I timed the noise delay—it was almost 4 seconds, so I went back to sleep and had the best night’s sleep I’ve had in a long time.
When my sister, brother, and I were little, we all had our own rooms. My dad was scared to death of storms—even worse than Bunny is. He would pace from bedroom to bedroom quietly opening the door to make sure each of us was ok. Each of us knew we were safe because our dad was watching over us. I love storms to this day because I have such secure memories attached to them.
I told Peter, the camp attendant, that I wanted to head over Franconia Ridge today. He started trying to talk me out of it right when I mentioned it. He was pointing out alternative trails and/or suggesting I stay here an extra day. I had already planned for an extra day here so I agreed without issue. It surprised him that an AT thru-hiker didn’t insist on pushing on. I’m headed south. I’ve got no deadline to be finished. I’m out here for 15 months. I’m dry. I’m comfortable. I can always sleep (I’ve still got a few Benadryl left).
There are 3) things I’ve never seen in AMC territory: 1) a moose, 2) a bear, and 3) a trail work crew. I feel safe violating an AMC rule of not sleeping with your food in your tent, especially on cold rainy nights with a full campsite. There had to be 30 hikers here last night.
Once everyone else was gone, I broke out my food bag and made me some hot tea to have with my breakfast. I’m sure I’ll probably follow the rules for supper and go cook and eat in the dining area if it’s not raining AND the Benadryl has worn off by then.
Day 4 (52), Liberty Springs Campsite, 7.6
The zero day paid off big time. I knew as soon as I made it to the summit of Garfield Peak that I had made the right decision. I could see clouds heading towards Franconia Ridge, but I knew they were much higher than the ridge judging by the airplane pulling a glider behind it.
Garfield lived up to my memories, almost. Peter, the caretaker told me he didn’t think that any work has been done on the trail in the last 5 years, but it definitely wasn’t as bad as my memory has it. I swear there are more steps in the cascade.
The bog and climb up Mt Lafayette were as I remembered. Once I got above tree line, the walk was quite nice. I really didn’t notice the 1000’ of climbing because the views were so incredible.
I did talk to one NOBO worth mentioning…Patriarch. Patriarch is retired from the Mayo Institute in Rochester, Minnesota. He’s 69 and had a goal to complete the AT before he turned 70–he’ll make that without any problem. However, he’ll be finishing it on Mt Greylock in Massachusetts so I might get to see him again before he finishes. What I found most amazing about Patriarch is that he’s even here. Before he retired, he went to have his ears cleaned. The nurse noticed a murmur and suggested he get an EKG. A few weeks later when he had it, the cardiologist told him “we need to talk. Now!” His aorta was swollen up to almost 9 cm. He had to have surgery immediately or risk a rupture. Moral of the story: get your ears cleaned.
The only other section of trail similar to Franconia Ridge is the Sadflebacks in Maine. It’s about the same length above tree line, but has views of lakes to one side where Franconia is mountains every direction.
I talked to one Forest Service Ranger up top. He told me that he was behind on his clicks but he had counted 433 people, but he was guessing it was over 500 people up there today. I could believe a lot more. It wasn’t unusual for me to have to wait for 25 people to pass before I could get moving again. This has to be the most popular hiking loop in the Whites.
Once I dropped off of Little Haystack Mountain to just the AT, the trail maintenance proved to be lacking. I still ran into some small groups heading up, but this section of trail is longer and steeper than the more popular Franconia Loop.
I was in camp and set up before 4. I could easily have made it to town today, but I have reservations for 2 nights at Snowchasers Ski Club starting tomorrow. I can survive one more night of rain.
All I have left above 4000’ is the Kinsmans and Moosilauke and then I’ll be out of the Whites. Only 25 miles to go and so far, my knees are still functional.
Day 5 (53),Liberty Springs Trailhead, 2.5
I’ve got to be more careful in my diet selection, especially in the Whites where you sleep on shared platforms. I’ve had suppers based on beans two nights in a row. The woman in the tent next to me had her dog with her. I tried a slow release; the dog growled. I’m in trouble.
If I hold it in all night, I’ll end up floating to the top of my tent. I don’t know if the cup hooks I screwed into the platform are strong enough to hold the tent down with me floating up. Who knows where I might end up.
Providence was looking out for me once again. Storms started rolling in about 11 with lots of lightning and thunder. All I had to do was pretend I was Andy Dufresne (Shawshank Redemption) and time my releases after lightening—I was saved.
Susanna and Pepper were up before 6, packed up, and left quiet as church mice. I guess my lightening cover didn’t work as well as I had hoped. I started packing up as well. I had told my hostel that I would be at the trailhead by 10. I only remember that the trail is rocky and that we are at Franconia Notch (meaning at least a 2500’ decline).
Except for the trail being partially stream-like (it did rain last night), I had no problems getting down by 9. I guess I can still move quickly on town days. I was in my hostel well before 10. I’ve managed to turn my Nero and Zero into a double Zero.
How I missed how beautiful this truly is—it must have been the pain (and clouds)
Once I got back into Gorham and checked the weather report for the next few days, I decided I wanted another zero. Friday was calling for storms at elevation and rain in the valley. Since the highs have only been in the low 60s, this didn’t sound appealing to hike in. I asked Paul if he had space and he told me he was all booked up, but he’d put me first on the waitlist.
I just proceeded to act like I was going to get the second night so after my chores were done (shower, laundry, and resupply) I just headed to McDonalds. They had quarter pounders back in stock, but I could only eat one. I was still stuffed from my “work for stay” at Carter Notch Hut last night.
Once I got back, Paul told me I had a bed for the second night. I was so relieved, I took a nap. Sleeping was my theme for the next 24 hours.
Day 1 (44), Treeline Stealth Campsite, 6.1
The return ride to Pinkham Notch isn’t until 7:30. I’d already decided I was going to perform my morning routine there allowing me to sleep until almost 7. All I had to do was get dressed and make sure everything I owned was in my pack. I even had time for a couple cups of coffee before heading to the trail.
Pinkham Notch Visitors Center has a daily AYCE breakfast buffet. I anted up my $13 and hit the bar. For a NOBO who is 1900+ miles into their hike, this is a great deal because they have full onslaught hiker hunger. For me, I’m only 320 miles in. I’m just slightly more hungry than usual. There’s only one way the buffet makes sense for me. In a word—bacon. I skipped all the carbs and went for bacon, sausage, cottage cheese, and fruit. I got my money in bacon alone. I know I ate well over a pound.
While we were eating, a woman came in and told us she was offering magic outside when we got done. I had to save a bit of space; you don’t like to disappoint trail angels offering magic. I just couldn’t bring myself to eat anything else, so I settled on a Mountain Dew to help dilute all of the salt from the bacon.
There were 2 other SOBOs at the magic. I had met them a couple days ago when they slack-packed the Wildcats. They were Jet and Hendrix. Hendrix is from England but Jet turned out to be from Southern Illinois. After digging deeper, I found out we had both done work for the same Engineer at Continental Tire in Mt Vernon. We were only 2 degrees apart. Hell, I’m only 3 degrees from Kevin Bacon, this shouldn’t surprise me.
I was having a tough time getting going. I was deep in the bacon sweats. I was pouring out the water and sucking more down just as fast as I could. I smelled like a salty pig. If I could have tolerated the pain, I’d have taken a bite of me. I just hope bears don’t like bacon.
The lady giving the trail magic tried to scare me out of going to my stealth site. She kept saying it’s the weekend and everyone knows all the stealth sites by now. I didn’t buy the fear mongering. The spot we had in 2018 is down a hidden side trail about 50’ off the trail. People walk right on by the side trail without even realizing it because a pack doesn’t actually fit between the trees. You have to turn sideways and duck a lot to get back to it.
I discovered the longest climb other than Katahdin today. Pinkham Notch is at 2000’, Osgood Tentsite is at 2400’, and Mt Madison is roughly 5400’. If I were to buy into the fear mongering, I’d have to start my day off tomorrow with a 3000’ climb—that’s a nonstarter for me. My stealth site is roughly at 4300’. I get to break that climb up into 1900’ today and 1100’ tomorrow. I’m going for it.
There were not many people out at all today. I only met 4 NOBOs and the other 2 SOBOs I already mentioned. When I got to my stealthsite, it was pristine and isolated. I’d carried an extra 3 liters of water up with me to make sure I had enough for supper, breakfast, and the final 2 miles over Mt Madison to Madison Springs Hut in the morning. The other 2 SOBOs were pushing on to the hut tonight in the hopes of a work for stay.
We are definitely in between NOBO bubbles right now. I heard there were 40 at Hikers Welcome Hostel last night. That means I will be passing them around Franconia Ridge in a few days.
Day 2 (45), Lake of the Clouds Hut, 8.8
Even with getting the extra 1900’ climb, it still left me with over 4000’ of climbing today. To protect my knees, I’m actually wearing 4 braces—1 on my left knee and 3 on my right knee. I’m kind of like Ralphie’s little brother in A Christmas Story that has on so many layers that he can’t put his arms down. I’ve got my right knee in a vice…so far, so good.
The only thing I can think is that last time through The Presidentials, I was so dialed into Bunny’s pain from her hip and the pain in my knee, that I didn’t actually appreciate how beautiful of a hike this really is. Granted, it was slow going for me, but I kept a steady pace all day.
As usual, I stopped and talked to all who were willing. This may have been the reason I was too late arriving for the snack bar on Mt Washington. It closes at 4:30. In my defense, I was there at 4:25 but they were already cleaning up. I still think it was a better deal to talk to dozens of hikers (both day and thru) rather than eat an overpriced hamburger. I can get hamburgers anywhere (except for this snack bar at 4:26).
I people watched for a bit while I warmed up. Today was beautiful, as has been my luck the entire trip so far. The clouds kept pushing away from me on every mountain I climbed. This started with Mt Madison.
Everyone wants to go up Mt Washington. Clouds are just like people. There was a line as far as the eye could see of clouds wanting to cross the summit. As I got closer, I noticed a blue sky break among the clouds. It looked like my pace was aligning with the break.
I got my summit picture and walked around a bit. There is a lot of construction going on to allow better access to the outside observation deck. I hadn’t actually seen a lot of NOBOs today, so I thought there was still an outside chance I might be able to get a “Work for Stay”at Lake of the Clouds hut, so I started heading down about 5.
I walked into the hut a bit before 6 and saw a table of thru-hikers. I figured no go, but it doesn’t hurt to ask. There were 2 spots left so I was in. Two of the hikers just wanted to sleep in the dungeon. The other two, Professor Lo Tech and Chattahoocie were NOBOs. Eventually, Warren and Sock Pile (the father-son pair I met at Grafton Notch who gave me a nectarine) came in and took the last spot.
The hut crews are about to change so things are getting lax. After all the guests ate, they gave us brooms and washcloths and told us to clean the dining room. When we got done, they told us there would be more to do after 8:30.
After 8:30, we approached them about the work (they had forgotten about us). As we were getting the tasks assigned, I asked if we’d get to eat when we finished—usually, the first thing is to let the thru-hikers eat before the work because of our ravenous appetites. The Hut Master thought that we had already eaten. He cancelled the additional work and got us food all the while apologizing profusely. Everyone else just blamed it on me. Easily Forgotten apparently has a bubble of influence around him.
Day 3 (46), AMC Highland Center, 6.4
I’ve learned my lesson. When I come back next year, I will just sleep in the dungeon and pay for my supper ($10 for AYCE with the work for stay crew—yes, it’s an option no one knows about). Last night was the worst night of sleep I’ve had on the entire trip. Why in the hell everyone thinks they need to stomp or drag their feet AND slam the stall doors AND drop the toilet seats, I’ll not understand. This is not little kids I’m talking about. It’s a good thing I didn’t listen to my Republican friends and carry a gun with me.
I checked the weather from Mt Washington (posted on every hut). It’s calling for rain this evening and all day tomorrow. I was planning on camping at the top of Webster Cliffs tonight and hiking 3 miles down tomorrow before spending the night at the AMC Highland Canter (yes, I love the AMC now). With the rain, I might try to make it down the cliffs before it starts then hike a mile in the morning.
It’s less than 5 miles to Mitzpah Hut. I left Lake of the Clouds at 7:30. Worst case, I’ll stop there and get my free soup from the AMC and eat some of the magic one of the hut guests gave us this morning. I haven’t eaten any of my own food since getting on at Pinkham Notch.
After my break at Mitzpah, it was already raining. I decided to climb down the cliffs today before the rain gets real bad and Nero in tomorrow. My luck still held with views again today. I still had to climb over Mt Jackson and Mt Webster. It rained on me all the way up Jackson, but when I got to the final 80’ rock plate climb, the rain stopped and the sun came out. As soon as I was starting down, the clouds came in again and visibility dropped. The same thing happened on Webster. Someone or something (my dad, the trees, mother mountain, I’m not sure who) is watching over me. I am so thankful for all the breaks I’ve been getting.
The further I descended down Webster, the harder the rain became. My friends, the trees, did their best to keep me dry (I don’t want to hear anyone bitch about the green tunnel again). By the time I reached the road, it was a heavier rain than I wanted to camp in. I could camp in it, but the AMC is only 8 miles up the road.
I put my thumb out. After about 15 minutes and 20 cars, I got a ride. The driver was convinced I was a homeless guy down on my luck. I tried to convince him I was in this position by choice. I offered him money for gas. He refused. He told me he was heading this way and would drop me wherever I wanted. I responded “there’s an $80 million hotel on the left in 8 miles. Drop me there.” He’d never heard of the AT or the AMC.
I went in and asked for a bunk in the bunkhouse…I’m thru-hiking the AT. For $77/night you get an AYCE supper, an AYCE breakfast and a bunk. The only drawback is there’s not a washing machine on site. I’m a winner. I know I can eat $150 worth of bacon in two days. Everything else is a bonus. God, I love the AMC.
Crossing the Carters and the Wildcats—not nearly as bad as I remember from 2018
The double zero was just what I needed except for one thing—sleeping late. Paul has an “everybody up by 6:30” rule that is enforced with the turning off of the fans. I tried going back to sleep, but after a half a pot of coffee that just doesn’t seem to work out.
Gorham has a McDonalds. That may not be impressive to the average person at home, but when you’ve been hiking through the wilderness of Maine for the past month, fast food sounds so inviting. The only problem was a hiker bubble passed through town yesterday. I went in last night with Buck to get a Quarter Pounder and they were all sold out…reminiscent of the time I went to a Pizza Hut in Puerto Rico and they were out of Pizza. Sometimes a Big Mac, 2 hamburgers, a large fries, and 3 quarts of iced tea will have to do.
Day 1 (41), 08/01, Imp Campsite, 8.1
This hurts. Not my knee—that only aches. This really sucks that I have to do this, but I’ve got to say it. The trail today. Fuck! The trail today was… I hate this. The trail today was really great. There, I said it.
The AMC really put it to me today and provided a top quality trail. A bit over 8 miles of A- quality trail. There were a few downed trees than need to be cleared and some muddy areas that are getting wide, but this is pretty normal use on a trail. Don’t get me wrong, I still hate them, but I’m softening up. We’ll see what happens over the Presidentials.
Maybe this section of trail was good 5 years ago and I just didn’t remember. The only thing I recall from hiking this section then was that my knee was killing me from the Franconia Ridge section coming down Garfield where the trail was running in a waterfall.
I saw several NOBOs pass me with their heads down, unwilling to talk. They’ve forgotten they’re doing this for fun. No doubt, they were calculating how many days they had left if they can kick their mileage back up to 25 per day. They won’t even notice how beautiful Maine is at that rate.
Cardio is still a problem for me. I just can’t climb without stopping every 50-100’ of elevation gain. On flat sections of trail, I can travel well over 2.5 mph so maybe I’ll be able to put in more than 10 miles per day…eventually. Today, with the great trail and the 3000’ elevation gain, I got my 8 in by 2:15. That included 2 sit down breaks.
Not too many times, but more than my last thru-hike, I am exploring blue-blaze side trips. Today, I went up Mt Moriah. It’s only 0.1 miles off trail but with my knee last time, that was way too much extra effort. To be fair, it was almost 200’ of climbing, and, as I recall, none of my hiking companions in 2018 were eager to hike any extra miles. For NOBOs, this wouldn’t be a worthwhile side trip, but for SOBOs, it provides the first unhindered 360 panorama of the Whites.
I was the first person in camp. Eventually 2 people I know showed up—Lost and Found and Ultra but this will be the last time I see either of them. Lost and Found is SOBO sectioning but he’s really 6 days in front of me. Ultra is NOBO and will be gone. The section I’m hiking fits well with visiting Gorham twice which is how I’m getting to know so many NOBOs.
Day 2 (42), 08/02, Carter Notch Hut, 7.1
The trail today continued to be of “A” quality—fuckers. The only way it could be better would be allowing volunteers to come in and cut out the winter downfall.
With the great trails (steep, though they may be) I was feeling pretty lighthearted. That is until the intimidation began. I thought I was out of the bunny/opossum/gnat syndicate area until I got to the top of the first Carter Mountain. I was greeted at the summit by a bunny sitting in the middle of the trail with his ears fully extended. He bent his ears to his eyes and then pointed them at me. It is clear intimidation. If I go missing, please, for the love of god, exterminate this network.
My original goal for today was to make it to a stealth campsite near the gondola above Wildcat Bluff. I remember the hike up Wildcat as steep and frightening as a NOBO and I’m concerned about going down it. I want to have fresh legs when I do head down.
Even though the trail was good today, I still climbed over 3500’. I could continue on, but it would entail another 3000’ of climbing and an equal amount of downhill—I’d prefer not to stress my knees that much since I’m just starting the Whites. I decided to try my luck at “work for stay” at Carter Notch Hut—an AMC hut where the elites spend $180/night to stay. Yes, I’m heading into the heart of the beast.
It early enough (only 3p) that if they said “no” I could still make my original goal of the gondola. I knew better than to ask so early but I thought I’d give it a try. The hut leader told me he couldn’t give out the slots until 4 and that since I was so early that if any other AT hikers came in between now and then, they’d have priority (the idea being that the later a hiker shows up, the further they had to walk to get there). It was a definite “maybe”.
I hadn’t had “second lunch” yet so I went outside to eat and talk with any hut guests and passersby. If I saw any thru-hikers come up, I’d just accept my fate and move on.
By 4, I hadn’t seen any obvious thru-hikers so I went back inside. The crew leader gave me a thumbs up—I was in. He told me there wasn’t anything they needed done right now, so just hang out until 7:30 when they would feed me and then have me do some work.
To the AMC’s credit, I think they realized how demeaning the signs were that they hung in all the privies when we hiked through in 2018. Those signs were all about how great the AMC was for handling all the hiker poop. This year, they’ve taken a new approach.
They have created a new series of cartoons featuring “Angry Andy” who is a thru-hiker that hates the AMC. Now, they lightheartedly give statistics about what the AMC is doing and try to explain the fees that they-hikers pay. One thing they don’t mention in the cartoons is that thru-hikers pay 1/3 of what non thru-hikers pay. I’m slowly realizing that I was an “Angry Andy” both last time I hiked through AND this year when I entered the Whites.
The “work for stay” at the huts where the AMC allows two hikers to perform a small task in exchange for an AYCE (All You Can Eat) supper and a place to sleep inside for the night is just a bonus program for thru-hikers. Statistically, the odds are against a thru-hiker getting a slot, but it’s a great gig if you get one.
At 7:30, Coop came out to get us and took us into the kitchen. They laid out a spread 10 thru-hikers couldn’t eat in a week of meals and told us to eat whatever we wanted and as much as we wanted.
When I was full, I went up to Coop, thanked him, and said I was ready to work. “Right, I almost forgot. We don’t really have anything that needs done. How about sweep the kitchen floor and maybe wipe down the tables when everyone leaves.” In other words, the work was minimal. While I was sweeping, a couple of the crew started talking to me. When I told them my name, they said they’d heard of me. Wasn’t I the guy doing a yo-yo?
Holy shit. I felt like the Grinch did when Cindy Loo Hoo woke up just as he was finishing stealing Christmas. My heart grew 10 times larger than the average thru-hikers heart. Everyone knows what that means…I’m going to have a stroke and die in the trail (obviously) but I’m going to do it loving the AMC. The fuckers got me. I realized I had become last hike (and this one) what I criticize NOBOs for being. I’ll be an Angry Andy no more (but I still won’t get an AMC membership).
Day 3 (43), 08/03, Pinkham Notch, 6.1
You’ve all witnessed the improbable—Easily Forgotten has experienced personal growth while being almost 60. An old dog can learn new tricks, but can he poop in the woods without throwing up? We’ll leave that question for another day because the AMC has a wonderful composting system at this hut which is completely automated and runs off of solar.
My goals for this trip are to learn to tolerate myself, remind myself during bad times that this crap is only temporary, to stay in the moment as much as possible (this includes NOT listening to music or podcasts while hiking—which I haven’t done even once), to recognize my faults & correct them, realize how lucky I am to be out here, and to embrace the wonder that is around me. The climb out of Carter Notch gave me the opportunity to test multiple of these goals.
One thing I’ve noticed is that I’m talking to the trees—a lot. Scary amounts. Crazy man walking in the woods level. I’m calling them “brothers,” and “friends.” I thank them for helping me up and down steep sections of trail. When the trail is overgrown, I imagine they are giving me “Hi 5s” as they slap me. I ask for safe passage. When my hiking pole gets stuck in roots, I imagine they are telling me to slow down and pay attention to them. As I’m pulling out my pole, I acknowledge them—I even try to figure out which tree’s roots I got stuck in and to personally thank him (or her—I haven’t figured out the whole tree sex thing). I’ve got to say, I may be crazy, but I feel I’m among friends in the forest and I’m happy. They keep me grounded.
Even climbing 3000’ and descending 4000’ today in roughly 6 miles (an average grade of 800’/mile—trust me, that’s steep), I stayed happy and had fun. I was worried about the descent down Wildcat Bluff and shared my concerns with the trees. I felt them telling me it will be alright and they’ll be with me and keep me safe. They were, and they did.
Like Mahoosuc Arm, all my worrying was for nothing. If I felt scared, I touched a tree and immediately became calm. I had exaggerated my memories from 2018 and made them into monsters. I’m not going to waste my energy worrying about future descents that scared me in 2018. I’m staying in the moment from here on out.
I walked into Pinkham Notch visitor center all smiles. Easily a half dozen people walked up to me and started conversations. The most amazing was with a hiker named Cheswick who started asking me about my hike. He even offered me a ride into town. Few, if any of you, may recognize the name Nick “Cheswick” Gagnon, I know I didn’t until I started talking to him about his hiking experience.
Cheswick is the fastest, most durable hiker out there—better than Skurka. Skurka “invented” the Great Western Loop (PCT, PNT, CDT, GET, and AZT) in 2007. This is the ultimate long distance trail incorporating 2 of the 3 triple crown trails and stretching 6,875 miles. Cheswick did this loop in 197 days and holds the FKT by 12 days.
Cheswick is everything I’m not—young, good looking, durable, fast, athletic (world class if not better), humble, and generous. I’d hate him if I could, but he’s too damn charismatic. He gave me a ride right to my hostel. The fucker is nice, too. Check out his journey on cheswicktreks.com. It’s an amazing account.
I have completed the first state of my odyssey. 1 down, 29 to go.
The Cabin was a big surprise for me. In 2018, we spent 5 nights at Pine Ellis (where the trail crime spree began—slackpacking). I considered returning there out of nostalgia, but I decided I should try something new. Given the food situation in Andover, I made the right decision this time around.
Day 1, 07/24, Unnamed Brook,10.1
You know me. I’m not one to complain. Granted, this is a very recent phenomenon, but I try to see the bright side of things. (Quit choking—I’ve changed), but it’s hard to call the 1600’ up and down over Moody Mountain anything but a PUD (Pointless Up and Down). It was kind of pretty, but…come on.
The “High Light” of the day was making it past Hall Mountain Lean-to and over Wyman Mountain (why man? In god’s name, why?) It was a lovely mountain, but the leading comments in FarOut were: “2 bars service” and “why man?” Even the gnats couldn’t be bothered to fly over this one.
Day 2, 07/25, Grafton Notch, 10.3
I camped in a stealth spot just past the road last night. We all know the misery I faced digging a hole last time at Oberton Stream. I wasn’t willing to face the toxic clean-up again. It was only 4.5 miles to Frye Notch Lean-to. I grabbed a stick, bit down hard, clenched my cheeks, and began my 1800’ climb.
I learned something about my body today. A closed window only means the lack of urgency has dissipated, not the need of release. Even though I was walking unencumbered when I reached the lean-to and felt no imminence, I was still able to produce enough toxic waste to require a federal declaration. I did walk with more pep in my step afterwards.
The extra pep was needed. I was crossing the Bald Pate Mountains. I remembered the downhill from my 2018 thru-hike. It was a downhill that never ended. Uphill, this time, wasn’t as scary walking 1500’ up an exposed granite slab dry walkway in under 1.5 miles as compared to descending the same slightly damp walkway was previously. I had to stop a lot and wonder why I was out here, but then my friends, the trees, reminded me I loved being in the forest and helped me to climb up.
I passed the most NOBOs in a single day today—well over 20! The leading edge of the bubble has arrived. I will need to start planning ahead to make reservations at hostels for the next several weeks. I’ve enjoyed not planning on the AT for the last 700 miles of 2018 (we had Bear that lives for that shit) and so far up to now. When I got to the summit of East Bald Pate, I threw up in my mouth, calculated how long it would take me to get to Gorham, and, called The Barn to make a reservation for a Zero. With all the mental effort involved in doing so, I decided to make it a double.
The climb down West Bald Pate was uneventful except for the gnats. Someone recently told me that gnats are actually after the fluid in our eyes which is why they are constantly in our face. I don’t know if I believe that. The connection I’ve come up with seems much more plausible.
It’s my belief that there is a secret bunny/opossum syndicate that employs the gnats (trust me, this is more plausible than “I couldn’t lose—the election was stolen…waa, waa, waa”).
Here’s how it works. The quietest “prey” animals are, in reality, trying to become viscous predators, but don’t want to be discovered until the transition is complete. They employ the gnats to wait until hikers are in dangerous situations (cliff edges, tense water crossings, jumping over crevices, etc) where both hands are in use. The swarm is timed to attack at this vulnerable moment to get the hiker to swat with one hand creating a death fall. The bunnies and opossums then engulf the fallen victim eating them clean EXCEPT for the eyes and tear ducts which they leave as payment for the gnats.
This all started with the release of “Zootopia” when bunnies realized they had the possibility of ascendency. This plan was revealed to me in Baxter State Park when George and I were first swarmed at our campsite. I saw the bunny at the edge of the campsite coordinating the attack. I’ve been a target ever since. If anything untoward happens to me on trail, I want my benefactors to follow up on this investigation.
Day 3, 07/26, Speck Pond Shelter, 4.6
I had a hunch there might be trail magic at Grafton Notch which is why I decided to camp here last night. This was based upon the number of NOBOs that have been passing me the last couple of days. CaliRoll confirmed this to me as he was setting up next to me in the Notch—a car had stopped and told him magic was coming.
Uncharacteristically, I took my time getting ready. The 10,000 mosquitoes on my tent door had no bearing on my reluctance to leave my tent. I was waiting for cars to arrive and set up grills. At 8:30, the call of nature forced its hand. I got more than relief—two SOBOs returning to the trail gave me a nectarine. My wait was not completely in vain even though the big event never materialized (I’m talking about the magic—the other big event was quite satisfying).
Any time a day starts with a 2800’ climb, well, let’s say my enthusiasm lags. It took me 4 hours to ascend Old Speck. I had already planned on a short day because I was reluctant to descend Mahoosuc Arm. I remember it as a 2000’ straight up climb after the Mahoosuc Notch—“the hardest mile on the AT.” I’ve had nightmares of falling down the Arm. Although I sometimes claim to hate my life, I’m in no real hurry for it to end.
At the top of Old Speck, there’s a short side trail (0.3 miles) that leads to an old fire tower. I had the time and only a mile to go to my campsite for the night, so I took the trail untraveled by NOBOs. It was a beautiful view with several stealth sites around the tower. I will definitely stay here on my return trip next year (if the weather is good the day I’m passing through).
I’m beginning to wonder if I can even hike more than 10 miles per day anymore. At first, I was able to occasionally hit 12 or 14 miles in a day. I’m hoping I’m just feeling “The Whites” phenomenon and not my new regular “old man” setting.
Day 4, 07/27, Full Goose Shelter, 5.1
I thought AMC control started at Grafton Notch but I think real control doesn’t start until the top of Old Speck. I believe the MATC maintains the trail on the north side of Old Speck because this is a popular area for Maine hiking. Once I started down the back side of Old Speck, I knew without a doubt that I was in AMC territory because the trail turned to shit.
There are 4 downhills I’ve been worried about as a SOBO. Mahoosuc Arm was the first. I’m not lying when I say I’ve had nightmares about coming down the Arm. Thankfully, my fears have been unfounded. What happened is that the 30’ worst section I experienced climbing up was expanded to the whole 2000’ by my mind. It was not as bad as my fears made it out to be. Let’s hope this is true for my other 3 feared declines.
We got up early to not climb down the Arm in the rain. Our luck did not hold for the Notch. I was only about 1/4 of the way through when the rain started. I don’t mind a light rain. My fear was a downpour. A downpour in a narrow canyon has the potential to become a flash flood. Today was just a light, fairly warm, heavy mist. The “caves” I had to crawl through actually just provided dry spots to rest for a minute or two.
What I didn’t remember was how steep the 1000’ climb up Fulling Mill Mountain was. Actually, I didn’t remember much of what I went through today other than the few times I had to crawl under boulders and the 30’ of the Arm that had expanded in my memory. Oh, I also remembered correctly that the trail maintenance by the AMC was completely non existent. That I got right.
I stayed in the shelter because the mist increased to a nice steady rain. Lost and Found tried to talk me into continuing on with him to Carlo Col Shelter. It was early enough, but I had only planned on here. If it hadn’t been raining, I had the energy to go. In the rain—not interested.
I shared the shelter with MouseFeathers (18 year old NOBO) and 2 brothers, Jack and Moose, who I met a little over a week ago near ME rt 17. The 6 hour afternoon nap before my 13 hour night’s sleep hit the spot.
Day 5, 07/28, Gentian Pond Shelter, 9.6
The rain stopped sometime in the night. Even with the 19 hours of sleep, I still felt sluggish today. Maybe it was the high humidity from the rain.
Some people call the AMC the Appalachian Money Club just because they’ve managed to find a way to charge hikers for what is free in every other national forest in the nation—distributed wild camping. I think that’s an unfair, non-helpful moniker for the AMC. I will only refer to them from this day forward as the All Maintenance Canceled zone of the AT. I crossed more down trees in first 5 miles of NH than I encountered in all of 282 miles of ME.
I have been extremely fortunate so far on my hike. The only mountain I have not had a view on so far was White Cap in the HMW. My luck didn’t hold out this morning. The first two Goose Eye Peaks I crossed this morning had less than 30’ visibility. Since there are a lot of bogs in this area, it was really pretty cool. My the time I crossed the West Peak, I had clear blue skies and great views once again.
The last mountain for me today was Mt. Success. The success of this peak is to cross it without ending up to your knees in bog mud. This is the perfect example of everything that is wrong with the privatization of national resources by for profit organizations. The AMC’s lack of maintenance in low use areas is causing the destruction of high mountain bogs.
I am willing to bet they have not performed any maintenance on Mt Success in over 20 years. How else could you explain the near total disintegration of all the treated bog boards on the mountain. I know the AMC will blame the hikers for not staying on the trail even though I completely submerged by hiking pole without reaching a solid surface on more than one occasion. I would love to see the Executive Director of the AMC traverse this section of trail following his own edict to “stay on the trail” no mater what conditions exist.
I will NEVER support the privatization of any government owned resource or agency. It will always be directed for maximum profit without regard to long term health of the organization or resource. We are witnessing the destruction of habitat through neglect by an organization that is making shitloads of money while paying the executive director a 7 fucking digit salary. The AMC must go!
Day 6, 07/29, The Barn, Gorham, 11.8
I don’t need to harp on the POS organization, AMC any longer. I’m pretty sure I’ve made my position clear. It’s not about how shitty they treat thru-hikers (which they do). It’s not about charging for services that are free in every other national forest in the nation. It’s not even about the money. They are destroying our environment through neglect for profit. Period.
Ironically, I passed through about a 2 mile section of fairly well maintained section of trail today. Granted, it was easy to get to, not too far from a road, and relatively level, but it’s the first sign of any maintenance I’ve seen. A glimmer of hope? I’m not holding my breath.
In the 12 miles of trail I crossed today, 2 were well maintained, 1 was on road, 3 were so-so, the rest (6 miles) were in need of serious help. It’s like they go out of their way to fuck things up. I mean it this time. I’m done. From now on, I’ll only focus on the positives. I suppose that means I won’t be posting any updates until VT.
Or at least not talk about AMC issues. The gnats and mosquitoes were at it again today—fucking rabbits and opossums! The only relief I got was about 3 miles from the road when 2 NOBOs passed me and told me there was magic ahead. The good news took my focus off the gnats and helped to speed up my pace.
As soon as I exited the woods, Granite State and Magic Momma greeted me and asked me what I wanted to drink. Ultimately, I spent an hour conversing with this wonderful company when gave me a Mountain Dew, Gatorade, banana, oatmeal pie, and a cold Snickers. Granite Gear thru-hiked in 2016.
Since 2017, they have been performing trail magic in the northeast and Carolinas. They’ve keep a log of every hiker they have met in that time. I looked through the 2018 log and knew at least 10 people from the year, including Hank Hill who is SOBOing this year and is about 2 weeks in front of me.