4000′ up, 1600′ down, 8.5 miles. We were supposed to do another 2400′ down and another 5.5 miles which we would have if: we had left before 10 and we hadn’t taken a 2 hour lunch and my right ankle hadn’t given out on me.
Peter and Alaina were planning on leaving the GR10 today for a short cut and to stay at a gite they had reserved way back when. I’m sure this had nothing to do with wanting to get away from us. I’m pretty sure the address of their home and the email address they gave us are probably legit. It seems like people go to great measures to get away from us. Axel and Heike quit the trail left the country. Andre had to hike fast because he “wanted to spend time with his girlfriend.” Jessica only had less than 2 months and she couldn’t hike our speed. Fred even left the GR10 completely for 3 days just to get ahead of us. I swear we shower every few days and brush our teeth at least daily–I don’t know what we are doing to chase everyone off.
The trail today was the worst it has been in the Ariege–that is, it was just like the other districts; very steep and few switchbacks. We were keeping reasonably close to the times posted on the trail signs. 2 hours 10 min to cold feet we did in 2.5 hours. More or less keeping up with the times.
When we came up to the Col d’scots, we heard some people calling to us and waving. Who could possibly still be around that would acknowledge us? Only one family left at this point: Judith, Martin, Mary and John. But this was their last day on the trail as well–we have driven another family from the country. They were sitting and enjoying the view of the ski area over a picnic lunch. It’s hard to believe we met them 11 days ago when they started their vacation in Fos. They are an incredibly nice family. But just our luck–we meet the only British family that all speak French, so when we have an English majority, we still get left behind with dinner conversations.
We almost missed them because we were so focused on lunch in the Chalet Beauregard at the pass. We had tried so hard to get French fries last night and failed miserably. Our guidebook (may he Rest In Peace and go out of print soon) didn’t even mention this restaurant but Peter and Alaina told us about it this morning. We were craving a burger, fries, and a coke. When we read the menu (kind of), the only thing close was steak tartare (is it proper to ask for raw meat well done?) or a hamburger on the kid’s menu. The waitress told us we couldn’t order the kid’s meal, but we could have beef instead of deer on “Mega Burger.” Pam actually asked if we should split one–there was no way I wanted to go through the rationing of French fries like we do M&Ms. It was bad enough that I ready had my shoes and socks off, I didn’t need to draw more attention to us.
In the end, Pam scarfed her own Mega Burger and fries, ordered a dessert, and ate half of mine as well. I was willing to put up with her stealing my food as long as she didn’t start stealing other items from the restaurant. This was the best burger we have had in France. It had mayo, ketchup, and no spit.
When I take my pack off, I always loosen the waist belt so I don’t have to suck my gut in when I put it back on. Going to leave, I couldn’t fasten my waist belt. I still felt like I could eat another burger, but my expanded waist said I’d had enough.
Pam made the mistake of complimenting the trail leaving the ski area. I knew this was going to cost us–never comment on the trail conditions of the GR10 until we are on the Tour du Mont Blanc. As soon as she got done saying it–boulder field. We were hopping from stone to stone while descending 1600′. This is where, without warning, no “pop,” no ache, nothing at all, my right ankle decided to take the rest of the day off. I stepped down off of a bridge and it was gone. Peter and I had talked about this last night and his experience on the GR5 with tendinitis. I was having the exact same problem. I couldn’t extend my right foot and put weight on it.
I experimented with different positions and discovered if I kept my toes pointing up, I could walk. As long as all my weight went on my heel, I could slowly advance. Pam was in heaven. My pain makes her stronger, she was down the trail like a formula one racer. I think she anticipates a nice payout if my ankle disappears while on a steep cliff. She even asked me if my parents would still include her in the will if anything happens to me.
This slowed us down while descending, but once we started climbing again, I could keep up the pace. We did decide to stop about a mile earlier than we had planned because of the various delays. We were hoping to be able to still find a spot at the lake where we are. When we got here, there was no one around. Pam was worried there might be something wrong with the place, but we found a level spot on shore to set up.
One of our goals was to swim in a mountain lake on this trip. Tonight, we did. It was brisk. I tried to keep my quick drying clothes on after we got out to speed the drying process. By the time we finished supper, I was turning blue to match my shirt. The lake is in a bowl and as soon as the sun left the lake, the temperature started dropping. We’re just under 6000′ tonight. While typing this entry out, my fingers are numb, my toes are ice cubes, I can see my breath, and Pam is already snoring–it has the potential to be a long night.
Curtis (and Pam ) ,
i didn’t leave the gr10 to be ahead of you. I decided my way before i started to hike even if sometimes i change my mind. I prefered to take a north short cut for the groceries stores and camp sites there.
Fred
Fred, we know that was your plan all along. My interpretation just sounds much more plausible to people who know me well. We’ll be seeing you before long.