Day 3, May 23, South Harting, TM 27.8–(11.6 miles)

Never say you love something—it’ll bite you in the ass every time. I said I love hiking from cafe to cafe, and that’s what we did all morning, trying to find a cafe that was open. 

When we “checked in” at Meon Springs (set your tent up over there, want a beer?), they told us they don’t have a cafe even though they advertise a cafe on their website, on the sign as you enter the property, and the sign as you leave the property. They do sell snacks on the honor system. Crisps, candy, soda, and brewed coffee. They told us they might have some hot items in the morning after 8. We couldn’t take the chance of might, so I made breakfast in the tent. We checked as we were leaving (there’s always room for a bacon roll) but there wasn’t anything. Score: 0-1.

For a brief moment when we found out there weren’t showers or a cafe, we contemplated hiking on another 2.6 miles to a hostel with an on-site cafe. As soon as Bunny sat down to contemplate the additional mileage, the answer became no. We stopped by sustainability canter only to discover the cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Score: 0-2. 

Leaving the sustainability center, we were privileged to walk through an upscale community where, even in the best of times, I would not be welcomed. The mansions were quite impressive. One of the old ladies made it a point to stand on her porch with her nose held high in the air as we passed. I’m hopeful she couldn’t actually smell us across her lawn, but it wouldn’t surprise me. It’s been 3 days and 20 miles since the last shower. 

The walk through the English countryside was very pleasing. This is an idyllic area of England. We just need to keep in mind that we are in a National Park. But from past experience, we know that England makes outdoor access a priority. There are footpaths crisscrossing the countryside wherever we go. 

Next up was a chance at a cafe in the Queen Elizabeth County Park. All signs looked good for this one. Cars were headed in that direction, we saw signs saying “now open”, and the parking lot was full when we got there. When we walked up, the first sign we saw read “toilets open every day, 7:30a – 10p” with another sign directly below that read “toilets closed”. I’m getting mixed signals, but…Score: 0-3.

I checked the map and saw another cafe in a little over a mile. In all fairness, it was still early in the morning, barely 10:30. Bunny wanted food now. I had thought to buy a bag of crisps (chips to Americans) last night which would go great with the tuna fish I had lugged across the pond. Have picnic table and tuna fish…

The next cafe was near the intersection of the A3, which is a 6 lane highway we would call an interstate. Even as we approached the cafe, we had our doubts because it was still only 11:30. This cafe, though, offered breakfast options as well as a wide variety of healthy choices. I tried to get Bunny to split an English Breakfast with me, but she pointed out it was 11:35. Breakfast stops at 11:30. Punctuality has no meaning on opening times, but cut-off times are strictly adhered to. We split a soup, sandwich, and a couple of coffees. We were satisfied. Score: 1-4, hikers win!

Hiking from cafe to cafe still is enjoyable even if they aren’t open. It gives us minor goals. Before you know it, you’ve hiked 9 miles and it’s only noon.

We made the mistake of checking the weather last night. We have a greater than 50% chance of storms this evening and tonight, so we had a new afternoon activity, find a pub to take us in. We tried all available pubs and B&Bs in Buriton, but they were priced well above my self imposed limit. (Coincidentally, my self imposed limit is very similar to health insurance “reasonable and customary”…it’s always £20 too high). This is the village where Bear and Sassy are staying tonight. We haven’t seen them since the Winchester Cathedral. I’m afraid they might acquire some new servants in our absence. 

We did check the next village, South Harting with similar results. I had left my name on an answering machine (yes, this is 2022). Unexpectedly, they called me back and we’re only £10 over my limit. Since it was already raining when we got the call, I caved. We will spend a night in luxury.

The White Hart Pub is only about 1/2 mile off trail. We got a double room in a converted outbuilding behind the pub. Everything is new and very nice. I just hope this bit of luxury doesn’t spoil Bunny. I have a hard enough time when every time we pass bab6 sheep, she wants one. A shower might be slightly more obtainable than a lamb. 

Two interesting features of South Harting. We are in a pub right next door to a 12th century church which still has a working stocks outside (Bunny better behave). The second is the hill right above town has a medieval tower whose construction was begun but never finished. 

As I’m writing this a third point of interest has occurred—it has started to pour rain. If push comes to shove, my reasonable and customary May have to go up £20 next time. 

EFG