We encountered the most people today we have run across since the Whites. I lost count after 20. We ran into someone we should have met before today. He started the same day that Good Chip Norris did but only knew him as Chip. He knew Stickers and Lady Bug. He remembered Geo, Summit, Bear Foot, and Little Blue. He even brought up Pit Boss and Play by Play. His recall of names was much better than mine, because I have forgotten his name. So why is he hiking sobo this late in the year? When he got to Harpers Ferry, he met a woman that started there and was flip flopping. They went all the way to Katahdin together and now he was hiking the southern half of the trail again to stay with her. It was a classic case of “pink blazing.”
We also met another sobo with a decidedly British accent. After talking for a while we found out he had set a goal to hike the trail in under 100 days. Since he had already hiked the Triple Crown, he was looking for a tougher challenge. He told us he was off on his estimate. He was going to complete the trail in 85 days. Oh, he wasn’t British. He was German. He had learned English while he was visiting Australia. The Aussies had done this to him.
I had planned on reliving one of my most memorable nights from the time Bunny was gone. I was planning on stopping at Trents Grocery, getting some beer, and hiking to Dismal Falls like Gnome, Little Blue, PC, and I had done nearly 6 months ago. When Bunny and I got to the road crossing, there wasn’t any traffic for us to hitch a ride so we decided to skip it. It had been cold last night and the forecast for tonight was even colder. Beer and waterfalls just didn’t sound that appealing in those conditions.
Instead, we decided to push on to the dreaded Wapati Shelter. This was the location where the couple was murdered in the 70s. Our friend Peter knew the couple and had encountered the strange guy that was eventually found guilty of the murder. After the murderer served his time, he got out and killed someone else on the trail. He eventually died in prison. And, no, we don’t carry a gun. It’s not worth the weight. There’s been less than 8 murders on the Appalachian Trail in 80 years which gets over 5 million hikers a year. We are statistically safer on the trail than the average person is sitting in their own living room.
Much to Bunny’s chagrin, we were the only ones at the shelter. We set up and started cooking when we heard voices. Not the voices of ghosts of the dead, but of hikers coming into the shelter. I was sitting inside the shelter and couldn’t see who it was, but I knew that voice. When they got settled in and I saw her face, I was convinced. As we talked, I was able to place it as the Swiss woman the four of us had met in VT at Peru Peak Shelter. At the time, she was trying to just make it by consuming protein powder to save weight.
Doc, from Switzerland was hiking with Two Flowers. Figuring out where we had met vs where we are now, they had hiked nearly 1000 miles since we had last seen them while we had only hiked 600 miles. I had said I was kind of relieved they had joined us at the shelter considering it’s history. Two Flowers was aware of it, but Doc didn’t know. I decided to leave it alone until morning, but Doc kept trying to guess. When she got to a murder happened here, I told her. The truth is, it was in a different location and the shelter had been torn down. A new shelter had been built in this location but they used the same shelter name.
Bunny and I went to bed, but Doc stayed awake listening to sounds. She was restless for quite a while, but I was able to quickly fall asleep knowing that someone was up looking out for strange happenings in the night. Considering the cold, I slept very sound knowing someone else was awake.
EFG
Today’s List
12 Best Hostels:
12)—Pine Ellis Hostel, ME…This is not a fancy place. In fact, it’s a bit run down and a little dirty, but that can be overlooked when you hear the story of why it’s still in existence. Paul and Ilene started this hostel over 20 years ago because Paul loved talking with, taking care of, and being around hikers. Paul died over 7 years ago and Ilene promised she’d keep the hostel open for him. Naomi and Gloria, two sisters living together in the 70ish range help Ilene (82) keep her promise. This hostel is a labor of love.
11)—Green Mountain Hiker Hostel, VT…This is probably one of, if not, the cleanest hostel on the east coast. Throw in $1 Ben and Jerry pints (limit 1, but $1) and it becomes irresistible. Manchester Center has everything a hiker could want.
10)—Herman’s Cabin, Kent, CT…This is an unadvertised hostel and you need to know about it to find it. Bunny and I got to rent a cabin to ourselves on the river with our own deck. The owners only operate it for a few months a year. We would have never found this one without Chad the Dad keeping us informed. It pays to go slow.
9)—Uncle Johnny’s, Erwin, TN…If you want a quintessential hostel experience, check out this place. It’s right on the trail so you can’t miss it. Uncle Johnny died but his wife is keeping it going. Free bikes are available to ride around town or there are set free shuttles every day. Word of caution, don’t fall asleep on a picnic table or you may wake up with a shaved head.
8)—Stanimals, Waynesboro, VA…Stanimal was a thru-hiker so he knows what thru-hikers want and need. This is a perfect place to get ready for Shenandoah with two of the best smorgasbords on the trail. Everything is in walking distance once you get in town.
7)—Boots Off Hostel, TN…Just south of Damascus, clean, and new. Several options from a European style bunkhouse, individual cabins, or camping. There’s not much of a town around it, but then Damascus isn’t much of a town either. There are lots of unique stylings including an outside showerhouse made from a wash tub.
6)—Whitehouse Landing, ME…Not for those on a tight budget, but worth the boat ride across the lake if you’ve got the money. There’s no way I was going through the hundred mile wilderness without stopping here. Need more inducement? Free joints to those over 21. No, Bunny wouldn’t let me.
5)—Rock N Sole Hostel, PA…Gateway to Yuengling brewery. We stayed in “Trashy,” the 50s I Love Lucy styled trailer. The living room is the stream running out back with lawn chairs. Some of the best home cooking you’ll get on the trail.
4)—Angels Rest, Pearisburg, VA…It’s easy to fall into the vortex here. I ended up with a triple zero waiting for Bunny to return and was glad for it. Pearisburg is very welcoming to thru-hikers. The main bunkhouse can be a little noisy because it holds about 18, but there are other options available including private rooms in a trailer. Everything you need and more.
3)—Shaw’s, Monson, ME…Now this is a place that knows everything a thru-hiker needs. If you’re nobo, get the bucket drop! They will let you split the cost among a group as long as you all meet at the same time. Poet or Hippy Chick personally meet you to give you your resupply and take your trash. They have a decent resupply on hand as well as gear to purchase. If you’re sobo, they can help you get your act together if you had any problems through the wilderness. Don’t forget to visit the Baxter Welcome Center in town.
2)—Bears Den, VA…This used to be an OBs private residence built in the style of a medieval castle. For $30 (2018 price) you get a bunk, a pizza, a coke, and a pint of ice cream. The ATC owns the house, but the PATC manages it so there’s a bit of a pissing match over maintenance costs, but that doesn’t effect thru-hikers. This is a great exit from the “roller coaster.”
1)—Woods Hole Hostel, VA…Hands down, the best and oldest hostel on the trail. Neville’s grandparents started the hostel almost by accident in the early 80s. Neville took it over when they couldn’t handle it any longer. She makes delicious, organic meals from food grown there or locally sourced. There are some rules to follow which only seem obvious, but remember, someone has done stupid crap to even cause the rules to be written down. This is a non-alcohol/non-party hostel.