It was still pretty cold this morning when we got going, just like my last time here. Does it ever get warm around Burke’s Garden? We didn’t see as many people today, only 3 sobos: Pulitzer, Marcus, and Polywog. And 4 section hikers one of which was Pack Rat. Not the same Pack Rat that owns the Hikers Welcome Hostel in NH. This was a rather interesting 72 year old Pack Rat. This was only his third day out and he was bored and lonely. To keep in shape he does push-ups. So far, he’s done over 11,000 this year. He’s thinking about getting off if he doesn’t run into more people. He’s averaging 25 miles a day and already had 18 when we ran into him. We had 3.
We also ran into a trail maintenance worker from Piedmont AT Hikers. He was out scouting this section getting ready for some work this weekend. This section on the ridge was actually in pretty good shape.
For some reason, I clearly remember the date Gnome and I walked through here last time. It was 4/20, but I have no clear idea why that date sticks out. I do know I spent 12 years in Catholic school (and not one time molested by a priest) and was an Eagle Scout. It’s funny how certain dates stick in your memory.
A big advantage of hiking this section a second time is first hand knowledge of the area. I knew if we continued past Laurel Creek, we wouldn’t have water near the trail for another 9 miles and we’d miss Brushy Mountain Outfitters for a meal. I remembered a campsite with a picnic table by the creek, so that was our target for the day. Mission accomplished.
EFG
Today’s List
25 experiences to not miss: (no ranking in order of enjoyment derived)
Spend the night at The Doyle Hotel in Duncannon, PA—As Chad the Dad told us, this is just one strobe light shy of being a haunted house. There’s a rumor that the place might close because of back taxes and not because of the exposed electrical wiring, the leaking drains, the crumbling plaster….
Pet some ponies at Grayson Highlands in VA—If you don’t see ponies, it surely means you are a loser in life. For best chances, spend the night at Thomas Knob Shelter just before entering the highlands; there is a group of ponies that will come to you there to lick your hiking poles and/or sweaty legs. (Or if you’re really lucky, one might follow you to the privy and save you some tp) Don’t plan on eating at the picnic table there because they are nosey (to say the least)
Stay with the Twelve Tribes at either Yellow Deli and free Hostel in Rutland, VT or just before Harpers Ferry, WV—This is an incredibly friendly religious group that sees hikers as people searching for answers and, therefore, as possible recruits. Although on the FBI watch list for child labor violations because of their communal expectation that everyone helps out, they do not seem to be scary in the least. I don’t know if I’d go in alone, though.
Dangle your feet over the edge at McAfee Knob/Tinker Cliffs in VA—If you do, get down and crawl out and back, standing up too fast can cause people to lose balance and fall. One person died this year from a fall here. This is the most iconic spot on the AT at McAfee Knob, but Tinker Cliffs is every bit as dramatic and not as crowded just a bit further up trail.
Stop in at the Barbershop in Port Clinton, PA—As soon as you walk in the door, Frank points you to the free donuts and coffee. As he’s working on customers, he’ll talk to you about your trail experience and ask you to sign his log book. He has free charging stations and a bathroom for you to use. If you need anything, just ask for his help. We needed a ride to Walmart and he asked everyone there to give us a ride. The guy who was getting his hair cut took me as soon as he was done.
Go for dinner at the Home Place when you spend the night at Four Pines Hostel —This is really a no-brainer. A free hostel with a free ride to a family style AYCE restaurant when your hiker hunger is fully kicked in. I don’t even normally like fried chicken but I couldn’t get enough (actually, I eventually did, that’s the beauty of AYCE). Any donation to Four Pines eventually works it’s way back yo a massive hiker feed at Trail Days.
Hitch a ride to Devil’s Backbone Brewery and stay the night—If you get to the road early enough in the day, they will even come pick you up. We got there too late for the free shuttle and spent quite a while trying to hitch in. It was drizzling, foggy, and averaged 1 car every 10 minutes. It took a while but was worth the wait. We thought this was going to be just a small brewery with a grassy field out back. Instead, AB/InBev has bought the property and invested over $50M. This is first class yet they still keep to their roots and cater to hikers with free camping and a new shower house. All they ask is that you eat and drink there. Drink? I can do that.
Stay at Upper Goose Pond and get some free pancakes from the AMC—This is one of the few things the AMC actually does for thru-hikers that they don’t charge for. Volunteers take turns coming in for 1-2 weeks to cook pancakes and coffee for hikers. The cabin sleeps at least 20 in the dorm upstairs and on the floor downstairs. It’s first come, first served. Remember, these are volunteers and it’s free so help out and ask before you do anything.
Stay at the Cookie Lady and help out—Do a good deed and get some home made cookies. This lovely couple operates a u-pick blueberry operation and let hikers stay for free. They are well into their 80s and could use any help hikers can offer. We mowed their blueberry patch. Here’s your chance to pay back some of the magic you’ve received.
Call for the boat ride across Pemadumcook Lake and spend the night at Whitehouse Landing—Keep in mind, this is not a hostel but a Maine backwoods camp. This is not for those tight on budget, but this is a unique experience. Things are a little pricey because of what it takes to get supplies out to here. They don’t cater to hikers, but they accommodate them. An over night stay is required if you ride the boat. Did I mention the $40 Bic lighters? They come with 4g of pot.
Spend the night at The Lookout—This is a private cabin just a little over 1/4 mile off of the trail in Vermont. The owners let thru-hikers stay for free so clean up after yourself. There’s a deck on top of the 2 story cabin where you can catch the first sight of Moosilauke Mountain and the Whites. Carry in your own water.
Spend the night at the AMC Highland Center, NH—Its an easy hitch to get there from the road. Even though this place has a bunkhouse, it’s not really set up for thru-hikers. There’s no resupply or laundry on site and it can be quite expensive if you are on a tight budget. What it does provide are clean rooms, plenty of bathrooms, and AYCE supper and breakfast buffets. There a well stocked gas station an easy hitch down the road. This was a very classy stop.
Stay in The Dungeon at Lake of the Clouds Hut, NH—Be sure and go to bed right at dark to get the full peasant experience as the dinner show goes on overhead. The sunset views from the shoulder of Mount Washington were astounding. If you aren’t in a hurry in the morning, you can probably snag some food after the paying guest are done. This was, by far, the friendliest Hut ran by the AMC.
Camp at Dismal Creek Falls, VA and have a party—Pack out some supplies from Trent Grocery. Soak your beer and feet in the cold water while having a leisurely evening. Lots of locals come down the opposite shore and are fun to hang with (think Yogi). Set your camp up below the falls where the sounds of rushing water lull you to sleep.
Climb Washington Monument in MD—Too many people rush through Maryland obsessed with the easy walking. This state has a lot of sites worth slowing down for, one of which is the first monument/tower dedicated to George Washington. Study your history because this man was truly a great individual. He turned down the crown, not once, but twice. He didn’t lead a revolution to start another monarchy. He got it even knowing that “it’s good to be the king!”
Climb the tower on Bear Mountain, NY—On a clear day, you can see straight down the Hudson River to NYC. Study the history and soak up the views. Plus, the section of trail coming down Bear Mountain is probably the nicest section on the entire AT. Trail workers here are farming their services out everywhere because they know how to build and maintain durable long lasting trails.
Climb the war memorial tower on Mt Greylock, MA—As part of the tower climbing streak of the trail, this is another tower to not miss in any weather—great views abound. There’s also a lodge just before the tower (if nobo) that serves great food and has WiFi.
Climb up the backside of Mt Killington and eat a burger, VT—It’s a tough 0.3 mile climb up and over the peak but you’re rewarded with the most expensive burger you will ever eat. Consider this your reward for making it 1700 miles.
Soak in a hot tub in Hot Springs, NC—With any luck, you’ll arrive on a cold snowy day. Nothing makes a blizzard more enjoyable than sucking down a few local brews, soaking in a covered hot tub, laughing with friends. Bring your own music and alcohol.
Climb up the tower on Clingmans Dome in the Smokies—This is the highest point on the entire AT. I’ve heard, it’s rare to get a clear day, but we had a clear blue sky with a temperature of 15 F. The recent snow made for the most stunning views of the Smokies. Knowing that we were soon going to be inside after 4 days of below freezing temperatures made it all the sweeter.
Stop at one (or all) of the Road side cafes (Waysides) in Shenandoah and have a blackberry shake—With all the eating options in Shenandoah, it’s possible to just enter the park with a day’s food and eat at all the restaurants and waysides and magic. It might get a little expensive but…hamburgers and beer for lunch every day!? Shenandoah is really the first chance you get on your thru-hike where you don’t have to spend the day watching your feet every step.
Eat at the breakfast buffet at Skyline Restaurant in Shenandoah—Sometimes the house wins, sometimes the house looses. There’s bacon on the buffet and hungry hikers in line. Not good for the house. Fortunately, there are plenty of obese car tourists that prefer sweets.
Eat at Three Little Pigs BBQ in Daleville, VA—Not only is the barbecue great, this place loves thru-hikers. Every time a hiker eats there, you get free banana pudding. This is the good stuff, too. Patches, no slouch when it comes to eating, got delayed a day getting out of town because she couldn’t resist another round.
Grab a couple hot dogs and some ice cream at Bellvale Farms Creamery in NY—Unfortunately for us, the hot dog stand is closed on Mondays, but the dairy just down the road, is open and is popular for a reason. Great ice cream and a great view. I’m not certain what the distance limit for an off trail side trip for ice cream is (or if one even exists) but the 3/4 mile walk is not too long.
Order a pizza at Penn Mar State Park—The park superintendent stopped by on his way home and made it a point to tell us we could not spend the night after we finished eating. He also made it a point to tell us he would be back at 8 the next morning. Of course, we stayed. We were woke up by locals who live next to the park bringing us magic and making sure we were on our way before we got in trouble.
Tour the Yuengling Brewery, PA—This is the oldest continuous brewery in the USA. They managed to remain in production during prohibition by claiming there stout beer was medicinal for pregnant women, giving rise to an entire generation of mentally challenged politicians. Apparently, there are still a lot of mothers still using the stout during pregnancy because Washington, DC has an unending line of mentally impaired politicians to this day. Free Beer is always an attraction to thru-hikers.