Day 13–Tuesday, May 23. Belorado to St. Juan de Ortega (15 miles)

We talked about getting up early and Pam came through today. Actually, she didn’t sleep well because her hips were hurting and there was quite a bit of snoring considering there were only 7 or 8 people in the Albergue last night. She made me get up at 6:15 demanding breakfast. The best I could do was a serving of “Athletic Greens”. This wasn’t quite enough to calm the beast so I had to walk on eggshells until I could find her coffee.

I wasn’t aware that there’s a lot of people already hiking at 7 never having witnessed the phenomenon before today. We rounded the corner and saw Shaun out front of his Albergue stretching. We assumed he was waiting for Alena but found out she had left about an hour ago. She’s an early riser that doesn’t like the heat–she was done hiking at 11 yesterday. She runs ahead, finds a place, and let’s Shaun know where to go (if that’s not a loaded lead in…)

Shaun started walking with us. Our paces still matched up pretty well, but we were leary of hiking with him because he and Alena pulled off a 31K day (almost 20 miles) and we’re not quite there yet. We made it Tosantos (3 miles) in a little over an hour but there was nothing open to get Pam her coffee–I was getting scared. Fortunately, the next town was only about 1.5 miles further. Hallelujah, they had an open cafe serving coffee so I was saved.

While we were sipping our coffee and having a semi-heated political/ethical discussion with an Englishman from Cambridge, Rob showed up. He had hiked the entire 4.5 miles in 45 minutes. We assume Michele was still approaching Tosantos when he arrived. There were several people we knew form the past few days in the cafe so it was fun talking with everyone, but our devil’s advocate from England almost got me excited over Trump and Brexit–I bowed out of the conversation. One thing I’m hoping to learn is patience on this pilgrimage (or flight rather than fight–Kujo would have a field day with the new Zen Curtis). [the astute reader might recognize the Kujo name–he’s an associate from Continental Tire and Trump supporter that likes to try to rial me up, but I NEVER fall for his fishing expeditions]

Shaun was ready to go, so we got saddled up just in time to see Michele as she was cooling down from her walk in (they were outside while Pam and I tried to avoid the sun knowing we’d get caught in it again later today). The next town was in another mile, but it was totally unremarkable (we can’t remember it). It wasn’t even 11 when we got into Villafranca Montes de Oca (7.5 miles total so far). Pam and I were getting cocky talking about how we could pull off a 20 mile day.

Pam and I have developed a power snack for this trip–potato chips, bananas, and Diet Coke (and M&Ms if I remember). We stopped in a grocery store to pick up our power snack (minus the M&Ms–I forgot) and Shaun grabbed a few things. We stopped at a bench on the side of the road for an extended break. Several people we knew passed us while we were eating.

Now’s where our bravado from earlier bites us in the askance (insert appropriate noun here–I just didn’t want to say ass; DOH). The climb wasn’t bad, only 600′ or so and a few dips of 300′. It was a lovely trail through pine forrests (we got the trees I wanted yesterday). I’m chalking it up to we didn’t sleep well and we’ve hiked nearly 50 miles the last 3 days, but the hike on top of the ridge bit us hard. We were contemplating hiking another 18 mile day today but we ended up praying for this 15 to just end.

We had to take a few power breaks but that wasn’t quite enough (I should have broke out the Gu!). We came around a curve and saw an oasis. Rob had passed us in a flash a bit back and he was sitting in the shade with hippies serving him drinks. There were hammocks, and wine, and beer–oh my. I plopped in a hammock and ordered a Coke Zero knowing that a beer was the end of my day with still 3 miles to go.

Pam (WTF, when did she become the strong willed one?) insisted we get going again. 1/2 mile later I realize it wasn’t strong-willed Pam that got us going, but it was her evil twin, whiny-tired Pam that wanted the day to end. It’s hard to disagree with WTPam so we agreed to abandon our hopes of making it to Ages (another 3.5 miles further down the trail) and settle for our original plan of St. Juan de Ortega.

Once again, we saw a flash pass us, assuming it was Rob, as we were heading into town. He was in front of us in line at the Albergue but we weren’t worried as there are 70+ beds here. Shaun was trying to find out where Alena was, but we deduced she wasn’t here, so he had another 3.5 miles to go. Rob and Michele were staying here as well.

Trying to find two beds together, that weren’t top bunks, proved to be a bit of a problem. We did manage to find a single bunk in the furthest room from the bathroom (not an issue for Pam, but I am a NORMAL 50+ male who can count the number of nights on one hand in the last 3 years where only 1 trip is made). When we claimed our bunk, we were surrounded by Brazilians. I got to talking to the kid (he’s only 36) right next to me. Not only did he know where St Louis is, he told me he worked in Decatur, IL for 3 months. Holy Crap, that’s my home town and the one place in the world I couldn’t wait to escape from.

To kill time before supper was served at 6:30, Pam and I went to the church in the monastery and looked around. San Juan is buried in the church in a stone sarcophagus hidden from view. There is an ornate sculpture depicting his tomb.

George sent us a text telling us he’ll see us in December. His feet are too tender to handle the long miles we need to complete every day to make our trail schedule this year. I worry about him, but know that we are making him miserable. When we hike with him, he watches the ground the entire time and misses the beauty of the country. Perhaps if he slows down and only does 5-8 miles a day, he might enjoy himself more.

Supper was the exact opposite of last night’s wonderful fare. Tonight we had brain soup (they called it garlic soup). The best I can tell it was yeterday’s left over bread mixed in some sort of broth best left uninvestigated. Pam and I were first in line and everything was cold.

We walked down to the bar after supper and had a beer with Michele and Rob. We complemented Michele on her wise choice of left over lunch food. We were in bed by 8 with the sun still shining bright.