We heard everyone across the creek up and moving a few minutes after 6, but neither one of us was feeling it after almost 40 miles in the last two days. With our late starts, we’ve been too late getting in to stay up to date on all of our nightly chores that we need to get done. Add in the fact that BOTH of our Big Agnes sleeping pads now have micro leaks (and this is a new pad I just got from them and have only slept on less than 10 nights) so we keep waking up sleeping directly on the ground. Our sleep has not been long enough or restful enough. Bunny is getting meaner than usual no matter how saccharine sweet I get.
We did get up about 7:10—still a respectable time for us. I only mention this so I can pat ourselves on the back. We ate, got water, dried out the tent, and packed up in just an hour and twenty minutes—a full 10 minutes faster than our usual time. Now that I put it down in print, it doesn’t seem as impressive because neither one of us took a morning constitutional which will catch up with us down the trail.
Bunny is much tougher than she thinks or claims to be. I give her a little crap because she is slow as hell at doing things, but consider what she is going through and what she has done. Her hips are constantly in pain. We have tried everything and been to numerous specialists with almost no improvements. The one thing that seemed to help, physical therapy with a chiropractor fell through because of insurance (quickly followed by Bunny’s belief that it really wasn’t helping anyway).
She has hiked the GR10 which is probably the toughest trail we will ever hike. That’s why it bothers me so much when she says “I can’t do this” or “It looks steep on Guthook.” She psyches herself out. I wish she’d say things like “I’m tired but I know I can do this, after all, I’ve done the GR10 which is much harder.” She tends to have a negative voice which irritates me which makes me say something which is never helpful or a good thing.
Most afternoons, Bunny hikes my ass into the ground. Most mornings, it would be much easier for me to pull a donkey up a mountain, so it evens out in the long run. I hate mornings that start with a climb when Bunny hasn’t slept well, her hips are hurting, and she’s looked at Guthook. Today, we had the trifecta of slowdowns. We only averaged 1.5 mph for the first 2 hours, much less than our normal rate of almost 2.25 mph we have been hiking for the last 300 miles. I was getting irritated, the donkey dug in her heels. A storm was brewing.
As we started our descent into town, we found the relief valve we needed. Just Ed had fallen when he started down. We didn’t see it happen, but we caught up to him 114 steps later (Ed counts things when he’s hiking to keep his mind occupied). He had a big knot on his forehead and needed a bandaid. We pulled one out for him and noticed he was shaking a bit. No doubt, he had an adrenaline rush from the fall and was still shook up. We followed him down through the rest of the steps (316 when we left him). We made sure he sat down, got some food and water in him, and saw that he was calm again. Ed is an older guy, has hiked over 60,000 miles in his lifetime, and is currently undergoing cancer treatment. He is an inspiration and legend. Please include him in your prayers if you pray.
We got to Duncannon by noon and headed straight to the Doyle Hotel. The Doyle is legendary for how bad the building is yet how good the food is. We decided to have lunch before checking out trail days. There were about 10 other hikers already inside eating when we walked in.
The owner goes by QB for Queen Bitch but she is the furthest thing from one. Her and her husband bought the place 17 years ago. They are former hippies and still have dreams that they can fix the place up. They are both in their 60s and very much still in love after 39 years of marriage. Bunny and I talked with them for quite a while. When they look at the building, they see it as they hope to make it. Vicki (QB) is quick with a hug, wave, smile, and a laugh. They are a sweet couple.
Our friend, Chad the Dad, texted us that the Doyle is just one less overdose above a ghetto. The building is in bad shape and has a questionable future, just like the town it sits in. He said you’d have to be an idiot to stay here. He spent two nights.
The building is over 110 years old. It used to be a Budweiser Hotel. It is the biggest structure in town and it is in serious need of help. From stories I hear of the ‘80s and ‘90s, it has definitely improved, but there’s still a long way to go. There are some serious issues with the electricity and plumbing. Also, a few structural problems that I can see where the plaster has fallen off the walls and ceilings. I just don’t know if the hiker traffic would be enough to sustain the capital investment needed to save the building. I do know that Vicki and her husband have a dream and vision for the building. I wish them the best. She’s the sweetest “bitch” I’ve ever met—Queen Vicki.
Our room only cost $35 for the night. It is comfortable and safe. There are only hikers staying here. The bed is great and has clean linens on it. We got fresh clean towels for us in the room. We even have a fan (anyone that knows me knows that was a huge plus for me). The bathrooms are in need of work but the water temperature and pressure were fantastic. The building was condemned in the ‘90s but they are bringing it back. To everyone passing through here, give it a chance. It doesn’t live up to the horror stories told about it. If you were old and locked up in a home with people telling you that you aren’t going to make it, wouldn’t you like some visitors to cheer you up?
We went to the Appalachian Trails festival. There were a few food trucks, a couple blocks of craft booths, some trail organizations trying to get people out on walks. No one recognized us as through hikers (and we still hadn’t showered or done laundry). Damn these merino wool clothes. If only we wore polyester, people would be able to smell us 100 yards out. We need to get a merino wool sponsor so we can clean up this trail and the thru-hikers’ image.
Vicki actually snuck out and walked around the festival. We joined her at her bar a little later for some more conversation. The bar and restaurant are thriving. We had a couple of beers and talked with other people in the bar until closing…at 8p. This is a hiker friendly, hiker safe place. We took too long to make up our minds about food and had to go somewhere else after close. We may not get to bed until after 10 tonight. As hikers go, we’re rebels.
EFG
I love this photo of Bunny! Enjoying your blogs and can’t wait to read about your other hikes and relive the southern part of the AT through y’all’s experience. Fun posts!
We’re glad we met you guys.