Yo-So the Presidentials

Once I got back into Gorham and checked the weather report for the next few days, I decided I wanted another zero. Friday was calling for storms at elevation and rain in the valley. Since the highs have only been in the low 60s, this didn’t sound appealing to hike in. I asked Paul if he had space and he told me he was all booked up, but he’d put me first on the waitlist. 

I just proceeded to act like I was going to get the second night so after my chores were done (shower, laundry, and resupply) I just headed to McDonalds. They had quarter pounders back in stock, but I could only eat one. I was still stuffed from my “work for stay” at Carter Notch Hut last night. 

Once I got back, Paul told me I had a bed for the second night. I was so relieved, I took a nap. Sleeping was my theme for the next 24 hours.

Day 1 (44), Treeline Stealth Campsite, 6.1

The return ride to Pinkham Notch isn’t until 7:30. I’d already decided I was going to perform my morning routine there allowing me to sleep until almost 7. All I had to do was get dressed and make sure everything I owned was in my pack. I even had time for a couple cups of coffee before heading to the trail. 

Pinkham Notch Visitors Center has a daily AYCE breakfast buffet. I anted up my $13 and hit the bar. For a NOBO who is 1900+ miles into their hike, this is a great deal because they have full onslaught hiker hunger. For me, I’m only 320 miles in. I’m just slightly more hungry than usual. There’s only one way the buffet makes sense for me. In a word—bacon. I skipped all the carbs and went for bacon, sausage, cottage cheese, and fruit. I got my money in bacon alone. I know I ate well over a pound. 

While we were eating, a woman came in and told us she was offering magic outside when we got done. I had to save a bit of space; you don’t like to disappoint trail angels offering magic. I just couldn’t bring myself to eat anything else, so I settled on a Mountain Dew to help dilute all of the salt from the bacon. 

There were 2 other SOBOs at the magic. I had met them a couple days ago when they slack-packed the Wildcats. They were Jet and Hendrix. Hendrix is from England but Jet turned out to be from Southern Illinois. After digging deeper, I found out we had both done work for the same Engineer at Continental Tire in Mt Vernon. We were only 2 degrees apart. Hell, I’m only 3 degrees from Kevin Bacon, this shouldn’t surprise me. 

I was having a tough time getting going. I was deep in the bacon sweats. I was pouring out the water and sucking more down just as fast as I could. I smelled like a salty pig. If I could have tolerated the pain, I’d have taken a bite of me. I just hope bears don’t like bacon. 

The lady giving the trail magic tried to scare me out of going to my stealth site. She kept saying it’s the weekend and everyone knows all the stealth sites by now. I didn’t buy the fear mongering. The spot we had in 2018 is down a hidden side trail about 50’ off the trail. People walk right on by the side trail without even realizing it because a pack doesn’t actually fit between the trees. You have to turn sideways and duck a lot to get back to it. 

I discovered the longest climb other than Katahdin today. Pinkham Notch is at 2000’, Osgood Tentsite is at 2400’, and Mt Madison is roughly 5400’. If I were to buy into the fear mongering, I’d have to start my day off tomorrow with a 3000’ climb—that’s a nonstarter for me. My stealth site is roughly at 4300’. I get to break that climb up into 1900’ today and 1100’ tomorrow. I’m going for it. 

There were not many people out at all today. I only met 4 NOBOs and the other 2 SOBOs I already mentioned. When I got to my stealthsite, it was pristine and isolated. I’d carried an extra 3 liters of water up with me to make sure I had enough for supper, breakfast, and the final 2 miles over Mt Madison to Madison Springs Hut in the morning. The other 2 SOBOs were pushing on to the hut tonight in the hopes of a work for stay. 

We are definitely in between NOBO bubbles right now. I heard there were 40 at Hikers Welcome Hostel last night. That means I will be passing them around Franconia Ridge in a few days. 

Day 2 (45), Lake of the Clouds Hut, 8.8

Even with getting the extra 1900’ climb, it still left me with over 4000’ of climbing today. To protect my knees, I’m actually wearing 4 braces—1 on my left knee and 3 on my right knee. I’m kind of like Ralphie’s little brother in A Christmas Story that has on so many layers that he can’t put his arms down. I’ve got my right knee in a vice…so far, so good. 

The only thing I can think is that last time through The Presidentials, I was so dialed into  Bunny’s pain from her hip and the pain in my knee, that I didn’t actually appreciate how beautiful of a hike this really is. Granted, it was slow going for me, but I kept a steady pace all day. 

As usual, I stopped and talked to all who were willing. This may have been the reason I was too late arriving for the snack bar on Mt Washington. It closes at 4:30. In my defense, I was there at 4:25 but they were already cleaning up. I still think it was a better deal to talk to dozens of hikers (both day and thru) rather than eat an overpriced hamburger. I can get hamburgers anywhere (except for this snack bar at 4:26).

I people watched for a bit while I warmed up. Today was beautiful, as has been my luck the entire trip so far. The clouds kept pushing away from me on every mountain I climbed. This started with Mt Madison. 

Everyone wants to go up Mt Washington. Clouds are just like people. There was a line as far as the eye could see of clouds wanting to cross the summit. As I got closer, I noticed a blue sky break among the clouds. It looked like my pace was aligning with the break. 

I got my summit picture and walked around a bit. There is a lot of construction going on to allow better access to the outside observation deck. I hadn’t actually seen a lot of NOBOs today, so I thought there was still an outside chance I might be able to get a “Work for Stay”at Lake of the Clouds hut, so I started heading down about 5. 

I walked into the hut a bit before 6 and saw a table of thru-hikers. I figured no go, but it doesn’t hurt to ask. There were 2 spots left so I was in. Two of the hikers just wanted to sleep in the dungeon. The other two, Professor Lo Tech and Chattahoocie were NOBOs. Eventually, Warren and Sock Pile (the father-son pair I met at Grafton Notch who gave me a nectarine) came in and took the last spot. 

The hut crews are about to change so things are getting lax. After all the guests ate, they gave us brooms and washcloths and told us to clean the dining room. When we got done, they told us there would be more to do after 8:30. 

After 8:30, we approached them about the work (they had forgotten about us). As we were getting the tasks assigned, I asked if we’d get to eat when we finished—usually, the first thing is to let the thru-hikers eat before the work because of our ravenous appetites. The Hut Master thought that we had already eaten. He cancelled the additional work and got us food all the while apologizing profusely. Everyone else just blamed it on me. Easily Forgotten apparently has a bubble of influence around him. 

Day 3 (46), AMC Highland Center, 6.4

I’ve learned my lesson. When I come back next year, I will just sleep in the dungeon and pay for my supper ($10 for AYCE with the work for stay crew—yes, it’s an option no one knows about). Last night was the worst night of sleep I’ve had on the entire trip. Why in the hell everyone thinks they need to stomp or drag their feet AND slam the stall doors AND drop the toilet seats, I’ll not understand. This is not little kids I’m talking about. It’s a good thing I didn’t listen to my Republican friends and carry a gun with me. 

I checked the weather from Mt Washington (posted on every hut). It’s calling for rain this evening and all day tomorrow. I was planning on camping at the top of Webster Cliffs tonight and hiking 3 miles down tomorrow before spending the night at the AMC Highland Canter (yes, I love the AMC now). With the rain, I might try to make it down the cliffs before it starts then hike a mile in the morning. 

It’s less than 5 miles to Mitzpah Hut. I left Lake of the Clouds at 7:30. Worst case, I’ll stop there and get my free soup from the AMC and eat some of the magic one of the hut guests gave us this morning. I haven’t eaten any of my own food since getting on at Pinkham Notch. 

After my break at Mitzpah, it was already raining. I decided to climb down the cliffs today before the rain gets real bad and Nero in tomorrow. My luck still held with views again today. I still had to climb over Mt Jackson and Mt Webster. It rained on me all the way up Jackson, but when I got to the final 80’ rock plate climb, the rain stopped and the sun came out. As soon as I was starting down, the clouds came in again and visibility dropped. The same thing happened on Webster. Someone or something (my dad, the trees, mother mountain, I’m not sure who) is watching over me. I am so thankful for all the breaks I’ve been getting. 

The further I descended down Webster, the harder the rain became. My friends, the trees, did their best to keep me dry (I don’t want to hear anyone bitch about the green tunnel again). By the time I reached the road, it was a heavier rain than I wanted to camp in. I could camp in it, but the AMC is only 8 miles up the road. 

I put my thumb out. After about 15 minutes and 20 cars, I got a ride. The driver was convinced I was a homeless guy down on my luck. I tried to convince him I was in this position by choice. I offered him money for gas. He refused. He told me he was heading this way and would drop me wherever I wanted. I responded “there’s an $80 million hotel on the left in 8 miles. Drop me there.” He’d never heard of the AT or the AMC. 

I went in and asked for a bunk in the bunkhouse…I’m thru-hiking the AT. For $77/night you get an AYCE supper, an AYCE breakfast and a bunk. The only drawback is there’s not a washing machine on site. I’m a winner. I know I can eat $150 worth of bacon in two days. Everything else is a bonus. God, I love the AMC. 

EFG

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