We split yesterday’s hiking stage in half in order to have an easy day of hiking today. Even so, this was a very tough day for us. Bunny will say it was because of all the ups and downs we had all day. We only had to climb or ridge but we kept going up and down several peaks along the ridge, each successively taller than the last. That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason.
It was overcast and humid today. It didn’t take much effort for us to sweat buckets. A little 100’ climb had us sweating like mad. We climbed a couple thousand feet total today. That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason.
There wasn’t really a trail to follow today. It was more of a “pick your own way through the grazing areas”. There were holes, rocks, and shit to avoid along the way. Mostly, we navigated along the fence lines from trail marker to trail marker. At one point, Bunny said she’d lost the trail. I asked “can you see any sheep shit?” “Yes.” “You’re on it.” That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason.
When we got water yesterday from the B&B, we had gotten enough for us to make supper and breakfast. We thought we’d find some easily accessible water today. We even passed a house with a woman outside. We could have easily asked for water, but didn’t think to. After 4 miles, we were completely out of water and dehydrated from all the sweating. I took a side trip off trail to get some water from a school. We drank 2 liters before we started hiking again. That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason.
There were also lots of stiles today. It may not sound like much, but climbing up and down a 6’ ladder every 1/4 mile adds up. Plus, no two stiles are exactly alike. Some are nearly vertical with narrow steps that hurt your feet. Others are spread out a bit so you can walk over them like stairs. But go over 30 stiles when you’re already climbing a mountain…That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason.
Walking in sheep fields gets tiring. There is poop everywhere so you have to watch every step. I’ve seen so much sheep poop between hiking in England, Wales, France, Switzerland, Scotland, and now Ireland that I can diagnose every type of malady a sheep may have by just looking at their crap. I can tell you if it’s eating weeds or grass. I can tell you if they’re getting enough water in their diets. I can tell you if you they are drinking too much Chianti and fava beans with an old friend. I’m tired of sheep shit. The old saying is still true…if you build it (field walls), they will come (and shit). That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason.
The reason should be obvious by now. (Pam Lewis, skip the rest of this paragraph) I needed to dig hole when I got up this morning, but I don’t want to do so unless I absolutely have no other choice. We pass towns, villages, and cafes daily. I an excellent driver (of my bowels). If it’s a matter of a day or less, I have the power to wait. That was the reason today was so hard (for me).
We made it to Dromid Hostel by 4 thinking we might stand a good chance of nabbing a bed. We were greeted by an American who said he thought we might be able to get in. He tracked down the manager who told us she had just rented the last room. We said that was ok, we’d just grab some food at the pub next door and then find a place to camp. She then told us the pub doesn’t serve food. This was not looking good.
She went in search of the facility manager to see if she’d agree to let us camp out back. At least we were getting somewhere. She came back and said we could and showed us where to set up our tent. A few minutes later, she came out and told us we could also use the bathroom facilities and the kitchen if we had food. Bonanza. We haven’t had showers for 3 days. This was music to our ears.
After supper and a shower, we headed for the pub. Today is my dad’s 90th birthday so we tried to call him. We got his voicemail, so Bunny insisted we sing him “Happy Birthday.” I thought she liked him, but apparently she felt he needed torture for not answering. We tried again after the first beer and did get hold of him. My brother, brother-in-law, and cousin were all down celebrating with him.
Back inside the pub for one more round before bed, we told the owner we had met her sister earlier and she was letting us camp outside tonight. She talked to us a bit and told us to watch out for the midges. When we left, a few other locals told us to be careful of the midges. We said we’ve got a good tent, we’ll be fine. They kind of laughed and said “have a good night”. I thought I heard a chuckle.
I still haven’t fixed my side of the air mattress, but we keep getting soft places to camp, so it’s not that bad. Tonight, we had a freshly mowed yard to set up on. We made one last stop in the bathroom before turning in. Bunny will sleep all night, or, at least not get up even if she has to. She keeps giving me bladder advice and I repeatedly tell her unless she has a prostate, I don’t want to hear her opinion. On the best of nights I’ll get up twice. We had 2 beers before bed tonight…I’m hoping for only twice.
EFG