Day 1, May 21, Telegraph Hill, TM 3.3–(3.3 miles)

We were already to go except for one minor item—fuel for the stove. We had tried to buy some last night, but arrived at the store at 6:58. Online, they said they were open until 8, in person 6:56. We decided to be back this morning when they reopened at 9. At 8:58, no sign of movement. At 9:05, still all quiet. There was another store just a block down so we went there. They had fuel, but not the kind we wanted. 

We have arrived at the start of the trail

Back to Blacks for another try. At 9:25 a guy showed up and said he’d been waiting around the corner for 2 hours but no one had shown. European customer service makes you appreciate American customer service. American stores generally open at the posted times on the door. We got the fuel, but we were 45 minutes behind schedule. Our train to Winchester is at 12:05. We should still make it without problem, but 45 minutes of my cushion was gone. If something else goes wrong, I could fall into a panic attack. The older I get, the worse I am with time constraints. 

Cloggers in town

Fortunately, everything else went smooth with checking out, catching the tube, switching trains, and finding the National Rail Station. We were early enough that our train hadn’t even made the monitor. Like para mutual betting addicts, we took seats on the second floor across from the monitor and took turns watching the board like hawks. We finally had a track number 25 minutes before departure and knowledge of where to sit. One last set of bladder evacuations and we were a go. 

Follow the piper to the party

The rail system doesn’t follow the same mentality of retail. We pulled out a full minute ahead of schedule. My paranoia about being late paid off. If we would have been on time, we’d have missed the train.

where can I get one of these hiking hats?

Bunny was so comforted by my anxiety that she slept most of the hour train ride to Winchester. While she snoozed peacefully, Bear and I discussed the proper time to retrieve our packs so we would have a worry free exit from the train. Bear tried to convince me when the train started slowing down, we’d have time to get our packs and navigate to the end of the car. It was too close for me. As soon as the train pulled out from the prior stop to ours, i woke Bunny up, got our packs down, and stood by the door ensuring we’d be first off. This gave us ample time to study the rail maps of Southwest England. Ask me anything. 

Music and dance groups everywhere on the main thoroughfare

Another benefit of getting older and paranoid is loss of appetite under stress. I couldn’t eat any breakfast this morning. By the time we started walking into town from the train station, I was pretty hungry now that all the stress was gone. Sassy saw a Nepal/Indian restaurant about 2 minutes from the station. I have been suggesting Indian every meal since we landed and I finally wore everyone down. 

The start of the South Downs Way—Winchester Cathedral

As I expected, the food was excellent. I’m not a fan of colonialism, even though we have all benefited from the practice, but I am so thankful that the English brought so many Indians into Great Britain. English/Scottish/Irish food is not the most appealing…chopped organ meat in sheep stomach (haggis), blood pudding, spotted dick (whatever the hell that is—not going in my mouth unless I’m in prison). The Indian people have really classed up the foods in the former empire. 

The main aisle…longest nave in medieval churches

I asked the owner about a picture on the wall because I recognized the mountain from my trip to Nepal. He was from the area by the mountain so we started talking about the towns around there. He is in the process of building a B&B in Pokhara. He’s trying to talk his family into spending 6 months in England and 6 months in Nepal every year. His kids don’t want to—they are English born and don’t appreciate the opportunity they have. 

The bishops wife is buried here…think about that; celibacy in priesthood from 5th century

Next up was to visit the Winchester Cathedral. When we made it downtown, there was a festival going on. Different groups were performing in the streets and people were out enjoying the beautiful day. This is exactly the type of place we’re looking for…small city with lots of amenities, vibrant, and over 2000 years of history as a bonus. 

A statue in the existing crypt…inspecting a bowl of water

Bear and Sassy are staying in a pub tonight where we’re planning on hiking out of town a few miles. We went to drop our packs in their room so we could tour the cathedral in comfort. I have new impressions of them as people. We are hiking with a couple of bourgeoisies. 

The baptismal font

They have decided to hire a service on this trip that will carry their luggage from sleeping spot to sleeping spot. The company has planned them a daily itinerary and booked all their lodgings. The place they are staying tonight is nicer than any place we’ve stayed in Europe (we usually opt for hostels, or low priced albergues, or sleep in a tent. Bear and Sassy are going first class. 

Jane Austen made the cut because her dad was a preacher…no mention of writer until 100 years after interment

We are completely outclassed. I think there might have been a misunderstanding on this trip. We thought we were hiking with a couple we met on the AT. They thought we were coming along as servants. I don’t know anything about being a valet other than what I’ve seen on Downton Abbey. 

King’s Gate entrance to Cathedral

Winchester Abbey is over 1500 years old. It has the distinction of having the longest nave in cathedrals of the period. The original structure was built on an existing crypt, so who knows how many dead bodies are there. I’m willing to bet more than are under the Meadowlands. The most famous stiff in the pack is none other than Jane Austen, the famous writer of Victorian Romance where everyone ends up happily married. 

The old mill in Winchester

It is an impressive structure in, and of, itself. But it’s role in history is even more impressive. This was a major seat of power for the Saxon’s and was a prosperous cloister which operated from the early 900s until, Henry VIII being a spoiled brat, brought it all to an end. “Waa, waa, waa, the church won’t let me kill my wives so I’ll destroy the church.” Very similar to “Waa, waa, waa, the court won’t let me declare myself king, so I’ll destroy the country.” Spoiled rich pricks ruin everything. 

The canal heading out of town, lined with the Alm Houses that the order maintained

We toyed with the idea of camping in town, but we couldn’t find a safe spot. All these “no camping allowed” signs around the area were a buzz kill. About 5:30, we decided to move on. I made arrangements with the hotel staff to have a valet for Bear and to turn down their beds while they partook of supper. It’s the best I could do on short notice. 

King Alfred with sword pointed down because he wasn’t a fighter

We looked for an official start to the South Downs Way, but missed it. We just headed on out of town past the statue of King Alfred. King Alfred was way ahead of his time…1200 years and counting. He had the hair brained notion that leaders should govern for the benefit of their people and not just for themselves. He established education systems trying to empower his people. This was the Dark Ages. That heresy has not been attempted again since. 

Trail signage once were out of town

An old mill exists on what used to be the edge of town. Today, it provides a serene path along the river with beautiful parks and high dollar housing. None of the residents see the irony in the fact that they are living in the Alms Houses of the Abbey and charging well over a million pounds for the privilege. 

An even older church in Chilcomb, but too far off trail for us to look at

A couple miles out of Winchester is another quaint village named Chilcomb. There’s an even older church there that predates the cathedral, but it’s more than 1/4 mile off trail, and, to be honest, I’m still a bit churched out from the Camino the last time we came to Europe. 

An honesty box for pictures by a young girl including a rabbit

Bunny and I walked a bit further than we planned this evening, but we wanted to get away from people and traffic. We ended up on top of the first decent climb out of town where we could find a flat spot to camp. We are only 10’ off the trail and not well hidden (as we are in a grassy spot without trees. Hopefully no one attempts to wake us up and make us move tonight. Bunny is very tired, sore, and cranky. I pity the fool that tries to wake her. Lord knows I won’t attempt it in the morning. 

Not very hidden
Twilight Bunny brush

EFG

Getting there—Carbondale, Chicago, London, May 16-20

Planes, trains, and automobiles

All big adventures start with a series of goodbyes. I’m going to miss my dad’s 90th birthday which is going to be rough for both of us. My dad is in an assisted living facility about 5 hours away from me. I only get to see him one or two times a month. Fortunately, my dad is from a long line of centurions. I’ve promised not to miss his 100th birthday.

Buckingham…that name sounds familiar
Millennium Park
Now can you tell where we are?

Bunny’s parents have gotten a new puppy that we’ve grown attached to. Who doesn’t love puppies? If anyone reading this says “Me”, quit following this blog now. I am fascinated with the connection between humans and dogs. Two different species who have codeveloped for the last 15-20,000 years. Now one has finally gained superiority and we follow them on walks and pick up their poop. Dogs are in it for the long game. Hopefully, Daisy will remember us. If not, as soon as we give her treats, she’ll tolerate us again. 

Away we go
Into the sunset…except we’re heading east

Most importantly, Bunny’s daughter had a baby. We visit him weekly, and see the genetic donors as well. We spent the better part of the last week at their house putting in a fence for a safe play area for grand-baby and grand-puppy. 

Our location in London
We’re all here

And then there’s friends and family. If we said good bye, we’ll miss you. If we didn’t, take a hint. Just kidding, we didn’t have time to say goodbye to everyone. 

I might have a few additional suggestions
Thanks Di, we needed this

Bunny’s parents took us to Carbondale, IL the night before we were to catch a train to Chicago. The older I get, the less I like to rush or be stressed. If we break our travel stages into days, I am more likely to stay calm. Bunny likes calm Easy. We were able to see Bunny’s daughter, son-in-law (for all practical purposes) and grandson. We will miss him and worry that he’ll change too much, too fast while we are gone. 

Peter Pan statue…erected without warning overnight to surprise the children
A couple of Bears in Hyde Park

Monday morning we caught the Amtrak from Carbondale to Chicago. I’ve been on this train when I’ve had a 3 hour delay. Don’t need the stress. We stayed at a hostel in downtown Chicago where we could relax, eat Indian food, visit Buckingham Fountain (since we’ll see it’s namesake palace in a day or two), visit the bean, and just have a relaxing night. 

Two locals…
Just making the point
Connection?

Our flight to Heathrow didn’t leave until 5p on Tuesday. That gave us time for a leisurely breakfast and walk to the subway. I don’t want to be rushed. We got to Ohare 4 1/2 hours before our departure time. Another way to state that is we got to Ohare 1/2 hour before British Airways even started manning their counters. We were a stress free third position in line. 

My one “have to”
It’s happening
Everyone’s onboard
Buckingham Palace behind all the green

I like the red eyes to reduce jet lag. We were to arrive a bit after 7a. If we can grab a bit of sleep on the plane and force ourselves to stay awake all day, we should avoid any jet lag. Coming back will be a different story, but that’s 5 months away. 

Parliament & Elizabeth Tower with Big Ben inside
Better view of the palace getting ready for the festivities

Bear and Sassy were already at Heathrow when we landed. We met for a cup of coffee and developed a game plan. I had already researched how to get to our hostel in London. Bunny had picked it because of the reviews, I thought it was more for the literary reference, but we were dropping our packs at Pickwick Hall (adjacent to the British Museum) by 10a. Now all we had to do was keep moving until 7p. 

Tower Bridge, not to be confused with London Bridge which is in Arizona
The Tower of London…you didn’t want to end up here now there’s a line to get in

Since we were only a couple of miles from Hyde Park and it was a beautiful day, we took a stroll. Hyde Park is home to the spot (Hanging Arch) where criminals were hung (over 60,000 in the day—Texas has a way to go, but they’re trying to cut into England’s lead). There’s also a memorial to Lady Di which we soaked our feet in. Also, Kensington Palace and gardens which we skirted the edge of. We managed to kill several hours and some ice cream while we amassed about 7 miles of pavement walking. 

The Grand Ol Duke of York, he had 10,000 men
There be dragons in London

When we got back to the hostel, I tried to prevent Bunny from lying down (and failed). I went downstairs to see what Bear was up to and he said Sassy was down in their room. This didn’t bode well for making it to 7p before passing out. I was fast asleep by 5:30 and didn’t wake up until 8 the next morning. Not exactly bursting with energy, but not jet-lagged. My plan, for the most part, worked out. 

The courthouse
Stop…in the name of love

I only had one tourist thing I wanted to do in London that I haven’t done on previous trips—ride the London Eye. Everything after that was gravy. We got tickets for “The Big Bus” (on/off as you please) and spent a couple of days seeing all the major sites. When the rains started, we headed to the British Museum. Like London, there was one thing I had to see, the Rosetta Stone. Everything else was a bonus. 

Everywhere is getting ready for the Queen’s big day
As close as we can get to Buckingham Palace
The route the Queen will take in a couple of weeks

We had 3 full days of being tourists in London. I love the charm and activity. Seeing so many people out on the streets and being happy. I’m far removed from American politics and my nerves were already getting better. The only thing missing, I was ready to start hiking. 

The British Museum
Some ancient beauties on display
The Rosetta Stone

EFG