Category: 2022 Kerry Way — Ireland

The ground was soft and comfy. There wasn’t any rain. Two beers was too much to handle for my bladder. (Anyone notice the proper grammar regarding two, to, too?) I got up the first time around midnight. When I got back in the tent, I felt something biting my temple (not THE Temple, my foreheadish one). I kept smacking it until it stopped. I must have gone too close to the building and walked into a spider web, but I eventually killed whatever was biting me. 

The second time I got up was at 5:30. It was light. The second I stuck my feet out of the tent, I felt pricks on my legs. (Get your minds out of the gutter, I’m being serious here.) I did my business as quickly as possible and jumped back in the tent. This time I felt biting all over me. I hadn’t bothered to put on my glasses when I got up thinking that clear vision wakes me up. I put on my glasses. 

Looking up at the top of the tent was like looking at a negative of the Milky Way. Every star was a black dot with the voids now being white. There was more dark than white. We were under a full scale midge attack and thousands of the little bitches (only the females bite, so i am using a proper expletive as well) had followed me back in. 

I started clapping my hands to kill as many as possible. Bunny was protected during our first encounter in Scotland when I had nearly bled to death from all the bites. She had no idea what was happening or what to expect. I was having a full blown PTSD midge flashback. She told me to quit moving around so much and to go back to sleep, “they won’t kill you.” Oh, sweet blissful, ignorant Bunny. 

She finally stuck her head out from under the blanket to belittle me for being a baby. They swarmed her head and face. She joined me in the applause of “death to midges”, but it was too little too late. She said we need to go inside and have breakfast. I disagreed. We’ve killed enough of them to be able to pack up everything in the tent first and then head inside. We were a precision team of packers. 

Inside, we had a few moments to formulate an escape plan while we ate. Bunny’s first response was “is it always like this here?” Shit, this is going to cost me another night inside. I told her to go ahead and find a place in Waterville for tonight, then we’ll go grab everything and bring it up to the blacktop to pack up. While she was making the reservations for a B&B in Waterville, she also checked the weather. The rain is supposed to start between 7 &8. 

We had eaten, packed, put on rain gear, and started hiking before 7:30. The packing was miserable. Even in the parking lot, the midges swarmed us. Bunny started to have a meltdown. I couldn’t resist. I told her to calm down “they won’t kill you” thinking her own words might calm her. My swollen lip said differently. 

The rain started at 7:31 before we made our first turn off of the road onto a track. Bunny just kept repeating “is it always like this here?” I said we’ve already got a place for tonight. Maybe we can get a place for a night or two in Kenmare in a couple of days. This gave her the freedom to realize we were going fast uphill so she could switch into granny-slow, uphill, Everest drive. 

Now we had to endure wet grass filled with spider webs. I’m sure the webs have been there all along, but the mist was sticking to the silk showing just how outnumbered we were. We have already suffered midges, rain, wet grass, and spiders. Bunny was ready to quit until we were saved by an unexpected trio. 

Three donkeys were in the far edge of the field. As soon as they saw us, they started heading our way. They obviously liked people and attention. I got them all to come up to me and let me pet them. Bunny filmed it for our grandson to add to her barnyard animal series. When she was done filming, she wanted to pet them. All of her misery was temporarily forgotten. If only a bunny rabbit had hopped up to her at this moment, Ireland would become the greatest spot on earth once again. 

It didn’t take long for the misery to return. We started climbing again and were swarmed by black flies. These were of Amityville proportion. It could mean one of two things: 1) something dead was nearby, or 2) cows were in the area. Black flies love cows and their output. The misery their crap causes me on the trail makes me taunt them when I see them. “I’m looking forward to having you ground up on my plate, soon.” They are the most disgusting of all barnyard animals and I hate them in all forms except for steaks and hamburgers. 

We were able to outrun the flies by climbing above them. Or maybe it was the rain starting again that knocked them out of the air. I didn’t care as long as they were gone. By the time we gained the ridge, the wind was blowing strong enough that flies were no longer a bother. The waist high ferns and grass were soaked which, in turn, soaked our pants and filled our shoes with water. This was turning into a pretty miserable walk. 

The rain started breaking up and the sun even came out. Things were looking better. We decided to have a break and a snack. We could see Waterville ahead and below us. There was less than 3 miles between us and rescue. We would make it, get our laundry done, and sleep in a bed tonight. Just a few more miles and we were saved. 

Whack a mole! Everyone knows the game. We had to endure about a mile long version of the game in reverse. In the standard game, you have 8 holes and a mole will pop up out of one hole and you have to hit it to get it to go back down. In our version, which was through another series of cow fields, we had 7 cow pies out of 8 spots and you tried to find the one spot to step without sinking up to your ankle. The odds were against us. 

We made it to the other side with only minor slippage. It looked like we were going to make it. All this, and it wasn’t even noon yet. We dropped down off the mountain for a mile and a half road walk into town. The sun allowed us to dry out as we walked on dry pavement vs the wet plants from the “don’t whack a pie” game. We saw civilization in the form of an ice cream cone outside of a shop. Even I let a small tear slide down my cheek. 

First thing, as always when coming into a town—lunch. Something strange for us on this trip…we had a variety of choices. I ruled out all the seafood places. Bunny ruled out nothing. After the 3rd trip up and down the strip, I made a command decision. Once we headed in, then we had a choice of seating areas: out back, on the busy side, on the quiet side, in the bar area. Too many choices. I chose the place, so Bunny chose the seat—right where we were at so we didn’t have to walk any further. 

Waterside is semi-famous for an Adolf Hitler lookalike that used to vacation here. We did our shopping and bought some ice cream before heading to the Charlie Chaplin statue via the seashore. 

The main reason we booked the B&B was because they had agreed to do our laundry. After 6 days, it was badly needed. While the hostess did our laundry, we cleaned up all the other smelly parts. Between nights on the trail with pub food yo supplement. We just wanted some simple, greasy food. We headed to the grocery store for a pizza. Most grocery stores have dining areas inside or at least a couple of tables outside for customers to sit at. Eating out gets quite expensive and is our single largest cost of the trip. 

EFG

We split yesterday’s hiking stage in half in order to have an easy day of hiking today. Even so, this was a very tough day for us. Bunny will say it was because of all the ups and downs we had all day. We only had to climb or ridge but we kept going up and down several peaks along the ridge, each successively taller than the last. That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason. 

It was overcast and humid today. It didn’t take much effort for us to sweat buckets. A little 100’ climb had us sweating like mad. We climbed a couple thousand feet total today. That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason. 

There wasn’t really a trail to follow today. It was more of a “pick your own way through the grazing areas”. There were holes, rocks, and shit to avoid along the way. Mostly, we navigated along the fence lines from trail marker to trail marker. At one point, Bunny said she’d lost the trail. I asked “can you see any sheep shit?” “Yes.” “You’re on it.” That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason. 

When we got water yesterday from the B&B, we had gotten enough for us to make supper and breakfast. We thought we’d find some easily accessible water today. We even passed a house with a woman outside. We could have easily asked for water, but didn’t think to. After 4 miles, we were completely out of water and dehydrated from all the sweating. I took a side trip off trail to get some water from a school. We drank 2 liters before we started hiking again. That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason. 

There were also lots of stiles today. It may not sound like much, but climbing up and down a 6’ ladder every 1/4 mile adds up. Plus, no two stiles are exactly alike. Some are nearly vertical with narrow steps that hurt your feet. Others are spread out a bit so you can walk over them like stairs. But go over 30 stiles when you’re already climbing a mountain…That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason. 

Walking in sheep fields gets tiring. There is poop everywhere so you have to watch every step. I’ve seen so much sheep poop between hiking in England, Wales, France, Switzerland, Scotland, and now Ireland that I can diagnose every type of malady a sheep may have by just looking at their crap. I can tell you if it’s eating weeds or grass. I can tell you if they’re getting enough water in their diets. I can tell you if you they are drinking too much Chianti and fava beans with an old friend. I’m tired of sheep shit. The old saying is still true…if you build it (field walls), they will come (and shit). That added to it, but that wasn’t the reason. 

The reason should be obvious by now. (Pam Lewis, skip the rest of this paragraph) I needed to dig hole when I got up this morning, but I don’t want to do so unless I absolutely have no other choice. We pass towns, villages, and cafes daily. I an excellent driver (of my bowels). If it’s a matter of a day or less, I have the power to wait. That was the reason today was so hard (for me).

We made it to Dromid Hostel by 4 thinking we might stand a good chance of nabbing a bed. We were greeted by an American who said he thought we might be able to get in. He tracked down the manager who told us she had just rented the last room. We said that was ok, we’d just grab some food at the pub next door and then find a place to camp. She then told us the pub doesn’t serve food. This was not looking good. 

She went in search of the facility manager to see if she’d agree to let us camp out back. At least we were getting somewhere. She came back and said we could and showed us where to set up our tent. A few minutes later, she came out and told us we could also use the bathroom facilities and the kitchen if we had food. Bonanza. We haven’t had showers for 3 days. This was music to our ears. 

After supper and a shower, we headed for the pub. Today is my dad’s 90th birthday so we tried to call him. We got his voicemail, so Bunny insisted we sing him “Happy Birthday.” I thought she liked him, but apparently she felt he needed torture for not answering. We tried again after the first beer and did get hold of him. My brother, brother-in-law, and cousin were all down celebrating with him. 

Back inside the pub for one more round before bed, we told the owner we had met her sister earlier and she was letting us camp outside tonight. She talked to us a bit and told us to watch out for the midges. When we left, a few other locals told us to be careful of the midges. We said we’ve got a good tent, we’ll be fine. They kind of laughed and said “have a good night”. I thought I heard a chuckle. 

I still haven’t fixed my side of the air mattress, but we keep getting soft places to camp, so it’s not that bad. Tonight, we had a freshly mowed yard to set up on. We made one last stop in the bathroom before turning in. Bunny will sleep all night, or, at least not get up even if she has to. She keeps giving me bladder advice and I repeatedly tell her unless she has a prostate, I don’t want to hear her opinion. On the best of nights I’ll get up twice. We had 2 beers before bed tonight…I’m hoping for only twice. 

EFG

The rain started around 4:30 and kept going until after 8. We didn’t even pretend we were going to get ready until after it stopped. We’re in a no rush, no schedule, no hurry, no need to sedate Easy mode. Once it stopped, we made breakfast and packed. It was cloudy, but I like that. 

When the women who told us to camp in the dunes left last night, they told us they would reopen the cafe about 10. About 10 in Ireland means no earlier than 10, if they decide to open. We got there at 10:15 and saw no indication of life. The bathrooms were open, so all was not lost. By the time we left near 11, still nothing. Cafe called on account of rain. 

When you’re at sea level, the only way is up (without scuba gear). We climbed. And climbed. It was not too terrible because it was road, but it was still almost 700’ before we hit a kind of pass. There is a lower road heading along the shore, but part of it has fallen into the sea and was closed to vehicles. Not good enough for a car, not good enough for Bunny. 

We saw no one today. Not a single hiker all day. It wasn’t a bad day. It was perfect in my book. We had great views of the Dingle Peninsula once we got on the ridge. We could look 1000’ feet directly down at the Highway. The higher perspective makes everyone look as insignificant as I feel most of the time. 

Two tunnels from an old railroad line were visible below us. This line used to run to Valencia Harbor which was once the most western port in Europe. Once we crossed the shoulder of the mountain, we could look down and see the old viaduct still standing where the tunnel exited the back side of the mountain. The rails are gone now. 

It’s hard to believe that this used to be a war torn area. We passed an IRA memorial to a young man, only 27, murdered by the English. It really hasn’t been that long ago. Six counties in Northern Ireland stayed a part of the United Kingdom creating a partition on the island. I have recollection of bombings as recent as the 90s. Now, all seems peaceful here, but I’ve got to assume that guns are still present in most of the rural areas. I definitely respect land ownership rights in this region and will not knowingly trespass. I hope that I can find someone to explain the political situation to me. 

We passed through a clear cut area of woods. Selective cutting practices don’t seem to have taken hold here. In fairness, the treed sections are clearly planted for timber harvest. They are not a mixed species forest. We saw signs reinforcing my opinion about guns in the area…”No shooting” and “No Hunting”. We also passed several shotgun shells which indicated the signs were being ignored.

The maps we have indicated some woods surrounding a river next to a road below us. Our best hope is to find a spot in those woods with access to water. When we got to the area, though, it was all clearly indicated as privately owned. Everything was fenced in. No hope for camping along this stretch. What water we could see was too difficult to access because of the deep cuts into the land. 

Daniel and Laina had told us they were staying at a B&B off the trail and not going into Cahersiveen. Cahersiveen is not really on the trail. It’s a 6 mile side trip off the loop. Most people drop down to it because of lodging and other conveniences. We decided to cut out the 12 mile down and back. We’re trying to stay as close to 10 miles a day to save Bunny’s hip. We saw a B&B off trail and decided to ask if we could camp in their yard. 

The owner was very nice, but said his insurance wouldn’t allow him to let us camp because of the B&B. He did offer us a pot of tea and suggested we talk to his neighbor who would probably let us camp next to the trail at the back of their property. We didn’t think to ask, but he also offered us water which we gladly accepted. 

We tried the neighbor’s house, but got no answer. We decided to hike on and hope for something. When we crossed the small creek behind the neighbor’s house we saw a couple putting up a tent in a freshly cut hayfield. We asked if they had found the owner, but they hadn’t. Safety in numbers, we decided to join them a bit further back on the property. If the owners show up with a gun, we’ll have a couple of minutes after the first blast to abandon our gear and get a running head start. 

The woman spoke American English so well, I asked where she was from. When she said France, I was amazed. She had spent a year in Pennsylvania growing up and learned English there. I’m still embarrassed that I only speak English. I still consider this a failure of our education system. This past year, I did start learning Spanish using Duolingo, but I’ve stopped while traveling (when I need it most).

The wind dried our tent while we were setting it up. We cooked and ate outside, but were still in tent by 6:30 just to get out of sun. It had been cloudy and humid all day, again, until we were done hiking, then the skies turned blue and the sun blazed away. Maybe we should just start hiking a bit later in the day, say, 4p. I’m sure I could get Bunny to agree as long as I don’t make her hike past 7. 

EFG

The rains stopped and the sky turned blue last night as soon as we agreed to pay 100€ for a room. If that’s all it takes for blue skies, we’ll have to stay inside more, but I’ll push for camping as much as possible. 

It looks like it’s not always rainy and cold on the Kerry Peninsula because today was warm, filled with sunshine and blue skies. For pictures, it was great, but I prefer overcast and cool when hiking. 

The rivers and streams here are different. Because the rock is so soft, they have cut deep grooves into the earth. It’s not unusual to come to a small creek that’s 15’ deep. The water looks cold and clear. You just can’t get down to it. Or, it’s so overgrown with vegetation that you can only hear the water flowing. To get to it, you’d need a machete. 

We (meaning I) agreed to a shorter walk today. It’s only 8-9 miles to Glenbeigh which is finally out on the coast. I agreed that we’ll camp somewhere there. Bunny IS recovering from a total hip replacement. Yesterday was tough for me and I’m her young boy toy. The old gal needs an easier time of it.

We’re not seeing a lot of people out hiking the entire trail even though our guidebook says June and July are the best times to hike the Kerry Way. We did pass 2 German girls not much out of high school. They are just about to finish. They hiked the opposite direction of us and have wild camped the whole way. 

On one short road walk section, Bunny saw a short access to the right that lead down to an easy access point to a stream. We went ahead and had a snack break there. We didn’t think to fill up our water bottles which turned out to be a mistake. We could hear water beside us for the next couple of miles, but there was no way to get to it.

The big climb for the day is up and over Windy Pass. Between us, we had less than a half liter of water. With 4 more miles to go in full sun, we needed water. Plus, Bunny was dragging. I don’t think she drinks enough water during the day mainly because she doesn’t want to get up in the middle of the night to pee. 

At the last clump of trees before the climb got really steep, there was a brand new gated house. I left Bunny in the shade while I went begging for water. There was a Ring Doorbell at the gate. I tried calling but got no answer. I could see 2 hoses on the side of the house, but I was only going to jump the gate as a last resort. I headed further down the lane and saw a hose laying out where work was being done on a barn. I was able to get water without being completely illegal. I stopped by the Ring Doorbell on the way back to Bunny and explained that I had just gotten water. 

The climb was not nearly as bad as I had expected. We probably could have made it without stealing the water, but I have a phobia about walking in full sun. When we got to the pass we got great views of Carrauntoohil (the tallest mountain in Ireland which we have spent the last two days circling) and a beautiful vista of the entire Dingle Peninsula (which Bear, Sassy, and their youngest son are currently hiking).

From there, it was an easy couple mile hike downhill to Glenbeigh. On the edge of town we met a woman that talked to us for a bit. She suggested we try camping at the beach about a mile out of town. That sounded perfect to us.

We shopped and ate an early supper in town. While we were finishing up, we saw a German couple we had met while we had breakfast on the first day. They are also doing the entire Kerry Way. Daniel and Laina plan on taking 13 days to hike the whole trail. We didn’t think we’d see them after the first day, but we have run into them every day. 

Glenbeigh is a cute little coastal town. I’m going to make a few comparisons here. England is much more crowded than Ireland in an area only slightly bigger. The isle of Ireland only has a little over 7 million people vs. 80+ million in England. England has a much denser population so there are villages every couple of miles. The Irish appear to be more rugged individualists and villages are much further apart. The construction style is also less uniform. It’s like comparing Cape Cod to rural Montana. 

The Rossbeigh Point beach actually lies just off an alternate coastal route of the Kerry. Around 6, Bunny and I stopped for an ice cream treat and headed out the alternate route. There’s a charming little walk just out of town that climbs a dense forest. Some locals have built a Fairy Forest along the trail. It consists of well over 50 fairy houses lining the trail. We were so enchanted, we missed our turn for the beach. 

After Bunny (yes, we are having serious navigation problems when Bunny’s sense of direction is better than mine—I think I might be suffering from a series of minor strokes) realized we were headed the wrong direction, we turned around. Coming up behind us was an obvious American. She was originally from Wisconsin but got caught in Switzerland at the start of Covid. She agreed to stay and work since she had always wanted to see more of the world. She loves the 6 weeks vacation and laid back lifestyle Europeans have vs Americans. She is going to visit the US again, but stay in Europe. 

After walking nearly 2 miles to get to the beach, we were hit full on with a huge “No Camping” sign. There were a couple of women working in a cafe that was closing. Bunny asked them if they knew any place we could camp. They said the beach is lovely. Just go past the parking area and camp in the dunes…no one will bother us or check. People do it all the time. 

We walked out past the “no camping” sign on the other end of the parking lot and climbed up into the dunes in the middle of the bay. We found a great spot with a fire pit and flat area out of the wind. Other than a couple of dogs straying from their owners while out on a walk, no one bothered us all night. Since our air-mattress has a slight leak (my designated side), the sand was a welcome comfortable alternative.

EFG

The wind was really strong throughout the night. We had gusts well over 40 mph. You could hear it start high up in the trees and gradually make its way lower to where it shook the tent like hell. Every now and then some debris would blow out of the trees and land on the tent. It sure sounded like rain, but Bunny had found a new weather website for the area that was much more accurate than google and she assured me no rain until Wednesday. 

I looked under the vestibule wall and the ground looked dry. It was just debris. Regularly spaced and rhythmic. I got up (for some reason or other) and felt the tent. It was wet. The debris must have high water content. We laid in bed until 6:30 listening to the intermittent debris and heavy wind. 

11 hours of sleep should be enough especially since we were only up less than 11 hours yesterday. (Never leave a paid hotel/hostel/B&B before checkout time to get maximum ROI.) Once there was a let up in the debris, I made breakfast and we packed up. On the trail by 8:30. 

A new discovery was made this morning. Rice pudding is not a good breakfast to start a hard day of hiking. It was less than a mile and a half to Lord Brandon’s cafe. It wasn’t open, but the bathroom was. While I was checking everything out, a woman came out told Bunny they don’t open until 10, but she’d let us get a cup of coffee if we wanted one. 

I started asking questions about the place. She told me she had been born here and had lived here all her life. I found the back story on a wall of the cafe. When the National Park was created, they had built this cafe and adjacent house where her parents took up residence. That was in 1950. They ran the cafe until 1992 when her brother took over. She ran the cafe with her brother for about 20 years until she took it over when he moved on. Now she and her husband run the place in the summers and winter in the Canary Islands. 

Lord Brandon, for whom the cafe is named, inherited the land and title when his brother died. He was a bachelor minister living in a nearby Abbey. He built a small cottage and 40’ tower up here as a get away. This is the mid 19th century. 

Wealthy bachelors don’t stay that way long. A beautiful young woman found the new Lord. Legend has it that he kept here locked in the tower because he knew she was way too gorgeous for a middle aged fat man with intermittent bouts of gout. The only way up the tower was a ladder inside which was easily taken down. 

It’s never even been proven that she actually came up to the cottage and tower, but it was proven that she ended up having an affair with the handsome Prime Minister Viscount William Lamb. Anyone who watched Victoria on PBS will be familiar with his alleged charm. In short, the marriage didn’t last nor the wealth of Lord Brandon. 

We grabbed a couple of muffins to tide us over to the next cafe. We couldn’t get anything substantial since the cafe wasn’t officially open. We knew we were fortunate to get what we got. The next cafe was in less than 3 miles, but when we got there it was closed. We have entered another wasteland. There will be another chance in 6 miles. 

It’s a gradual climb out of Black Valley up to Bridia Pass. All we wanted was a clump of trees to get out of the debris  which had set in once again and didn’t seem like it was going to let up at all. One small clump of trees to get out of the rain long enough to have a snack to build up our energy for the 700’ climb. This was asking a bit more than the area could provide. 

Bunny and I were completely soaked. She finally even admitted that it was raining. It was to the point that we were afraid to stop because of the possibility of hypothermia setting in. Any stopping at all made us start shivering. We had no choice but push on. 

Once over the pass, we at least had a cafe to give us hope. A local man from Killarney passed us heading up. When we descended the other side, he passed us again. We asked if the cafe was open. He crushed our hopes and will to live. At least we had hope for a table to sit at out of the rain to keep us going. 

The cafe is also a B&B, but it looks like they’re not too fond of hikers because there were “no loitering” and “no camp stove” signs everywhere. We took our chances and loitered under the cover of a few small trees while we had a snack. We are ballsy, but not so ballsy to break out the stove for some hot tea. 

I had misread the map. I wasn’t anticipating an even bigger climb after the cafe. The second climb was over 1000’ and quite steep. Theory has it that you have tremendous views at the top of the pass. From here you can see the Reeks, Lough Acoose, and the hills of Dingle. The cloud cover was too low for us to see anything other than Lough (Lake) Acoose below us. 

Coming down, we had the option to road walk around the lake, or to hike a little shorter route with a few small climbs. Bunny was a bit wore out and her hip was getting inflamed. She opted for the slightly longer road walk in the hopes of going faster to make up for the difference.

When things are bad, Bunny can only imagine the bad continuing forever. It was still cold, windy, and slightly misty. Is it always going to be like this?

When she’s like this, I know we have only one option…a night inside. After a 4 mile road walk to finish the day, our feet were shot and Bunny was fatalistic. We arrived at the Climbers Inn and enquired about a room for the night.

They could accommodate us plus they have a full restaurant and pub. We dropped our packs in our room and headed down to the pub. It was loud from all the local families out celebrating Father’s Day, but it had something we weren’t expecting to actually see. There was a pulpit in the middle of the pub. 

We’ve always seen, in movies, that poetry is very appreciated in Ireland. We can only assume the pulpits use on a late night of revelry. Alas, we’ll never experience such a night first hand as we can’t even stay awake until dark. 

EFG

We had to have an extra day in Killarney. We were just too worn out from Brandon’s (Bear and Sassy’s son) travel experience. It took him 30 hours (an hour for each year of age—I hope he’s not planning a big trip to celebrate his 80th birthday), numerous cancelled flights, and lost luggage to make it to the start of the Dingle Way. 

Trendsetters we are. Yesterday, we entered an empty Celtic Donut shop for a quick healthy bite and a cup of coffee. Before we made it to a table, a line had formed out the door. Today, we stopped in a cafe for a late breakfast with only 1 table occupied. Before we got our food, every table was full and people were waiting at the door. Sadly, this trend follows me to every toilet. I never get 5 minutes of peace. 

The Kerry Way starts with about 3 miles of road walking. The official start is outside the tourist information office downtown which has the first trail marker by the door. 

The trail heads by Killarney House and gardens which we toured yesterday on our honorary “Brandon Rest Day”. It’s a beautiful walled estate which was donated to the city. It’s gardens and lands stretched all the way to Lough Leane. 

Near the estate, we were greeted by a couple of local historical figures. Monsignor  Hugh O’Flaherty, who helped hide Jews from the Nazis while he was serving in Rome. He also helped several thousand escaped POWs get back to the Allies. When the Allies took over Italy, he watched out for Nazi POWs believing that God has no country. 

The other was  Johnny O’Leary, who was an accordion player and dedicated his life to keeping traditional Celtic Music alive. It’s through his dedication that Celtic bands of today are able to gain worldwide acumen. 

Muckross House and Gardens was our first opportunity for a cafe stop. (Not actually true, we passed up several, but Bunny wouldn’t let me stop, insisting we had to walk more than a mile between stops.) This house was finished around 1850 when the local rich kid decided he needed a new home. He inherited obscenely large amounts of money from his family land holdings and copper mines. It is a beautiful house which I would gladly live in right on Muckross Lake. 

After his death, the estate traded hands several times until it ended up in some American’s holdings. They decided they finally had too much and decided to donate the house and 25,000 acres of land to Ireland which became the start of Killarney National Park. A very generous gift indeed, but also very screwed up system where one person or family can accumulate so much wealth while a country has 40% poverty. How did we get back to politics again? 

The crowds followed us on the start of our climb to Torc Waterfall. Torc Mountain sits beside Muckross House, Lake, and Gardens. Once again, all the outside tables were empty at Muckross Cafe, until we sat down. When we left, people were hovering for a chair. These same people followed us to the waterfall. When we turned at the falls and started the steep climb up, the people took a look at the stairs in the mountain and let us know how much their desire to follow us was worth in physical effort. We were pretty much alone from there on. 

By the time we realized we were becoming isolated from society (on this trip, actually, I’ve been aware of it all my life) we were almost 6 miles in. The climbing was finished and we were in a high bog. The bogs are crisscrossed with streams and creeks. The rainwater is soaked up by the ground and gradually released which keeps all the area flush with water. We are in a kind of temperate rain forest (when we’re in trees). Mosses and ferns are the dominant life up here. 

From this point on, we only ran into locals who were out for the day. I noticed bike tracks in the mud on a steep, muddy climb with occasional rock steps. There’s no way anyone could ride a bike through here. A couple minutes later, we met a guy carrying his bike coming towards us. He lives in Killarney and had ridden to Kenmare and back. He said this is the only section that couldn’t be ridden. 

We never really had a goal destination for today. We just wanted to get out of town and civilization. We reached the junction of the Kerry Loop section. The first 9 miles was the entry point to the loop. We’ll have to do those miles again when we finish. I was thinking that if we were early enough, we’d try to make it to Lord Brandon’s Cafe. It was apparent to me now that we’d be after 4 before we got there (if we’re passing a cafe, I want to give it every opportunity to be open). I suggested we camp near the shore of Upper Lake. 

The sheep are hiker friendly. Except for the output left behind, they do a great job of picking and maintaining campsites. We found 3 really nice spots they had manicured for us near the shore. There was even a little creek next to one where we could get water. We’ve finally had to filter water for the first time on this trip. 

We had camp set up and had eaten by 6:30. Because we’re even further west in this time zone, the sun doesn’t set until 10. We tried to sit out by the lake to watch the sunset, but we couldn’t do it. We were in bed by 7:30. We’ll get up early tomorrow and put in a longer day. There’s no rain in the forecast until Wednesday so we’ll be ready to go by 6. 

EFG