All of the Albergue are starting to fade together. Why we brought our camping equipment, I have no idea why, other than to just carry the weight and get stronger. Maybe we’ll camp after Compestella de Santiago when we go out to the Atlantic, but for now, we are happy with showers every day, cheap meals, and porcelain.
Once again, we were the last ones out but we were still hiking by 7:45 so really pretty early for prying Pam out of bed. This was starting out to be one of the most pleasant hiking days we’ve had so far–cool and clear sky with an easy grade. We ran into several people we are now getting to know through constant trail encounters.
We had about a 300′ rise early on so Pam took it very slow–snails were passing her on the trail raising their antennae and shaking them at her to get out of the way. She’s no good climbing in the mornings (or afternoons, but she thinks she does better later in the day).
It really hit me today that we are on a religious pilgrimage. We came upon an area on the side of the trail where people were leaving notes, pictures, and tokens to loved ones who have passed. The amount of grief that people are carrying on this trail can be staggering at times.
Why hike this trail? I’ve asked several people this question. The answers vary, but, in general, there is an ache that can’t be quenched. Some hike in rememberance of passed loved ones. One couple started on the birthday of their daughter that died at 3 months of age. Another man chose to do this because it is so unlike anything he has ever done and he’s trying to recreate himself in a new image. Other’s are unsatisfied with their current life and looking for a change/answers to finding happiness. The saddest has to be the parents of a daughter who died after hiking the Camino. They started on her birthday the year after she died. Her dying wish is that her toddler son will one day hike the trail and scatter her ashes along the way.
We ran into Suzy when we nearing Viana. She actually stayed there last night and caught a taxi back to Sansol this morning to hike the portion she skipped because of her aversion/fear of rain. We all walked into town together and had lunch just past the cathederal. When we getting ready to head out, Lee and Sandy came by and told us not to miss the cathederal here.
We went back and Suzy started the trail on to Logrono. Sandy was right–the cathederal is worth the trip. It’s so amazing to me that there are so many cathederals and ornate churches so close to one another in this area. The amount of effort and money it took to build and maintain these structures is staggering.
After lunch, the trail was supposed to be level and easy sailing into Logrono. This was kind of true, but the trail was concrete a large portion of the way (which kills our aching feet at this point). It was also filled with a lot of “false levels”–inclines and declines which don’t show up when using a topographic map with 50m contours (I know I’ll have to explain this to Pam when she proof reads this).
Upon entering Logrono, we were ready to stop. We could smell something burning, but couldn’t place the odor. Once we passed the city crematorium, we understood.
We headed straight to the Albergue next to the cathederal. It was actually in an old hotel connected to the back side of the cathederal–I don’t think we can get much closer. While we getting settled in, Pam looked out our window and saw Shaun and Alena having a beer below. I went down and joined them as soon as I showered.
Something very unusual happened this evening, George agreed to walk around town and sightsee before AND after dinner. Usually, he’s too tired and achey to do anything other than crash. The Spanish ice cream may be the motivating factor for him.
We stopped by this cathederal and went through it (after siesta the buildings reopen). Still amazing to have 2 huge cathederal virtually next to each other (Viana is only 4 trail miles away so probably 3 miles as the crow flies).
We couldn’t agree on food for supper and strayed upon Cafe Moderno which serves pilgrims meals–who can pass up a free bottle of wine and a 3 course meal for 11 Euros. After dinner, George wanted another ice cream cone from the same place he had one before supper. It’s hard to deny the lad considering he’s last probably 4 belt loop holes in size.
