With our late arrival last night, we were not in a hurry to get up early and get moving. Bert came down about 8:30 and talked with us, and Bert can talk. She has done some LASHing of the AT and enjoys her trail time, that’s a big reason she and her husband started the hostel. Between talking with her, eating breakfast, and repacking, we didn’t get on trail until 10:30. Because this was where Bunny left the trail, I kept sharing events that happened to me along the trail while she was gone. If anyone reading this blog reacts as enthusiastically as Bunny did to me, I might as well quit writing.
We didn’t know what to expect regarding the numbers of hikers we would meet this late in the season. There had been a storm passing through the area last week which might have pushed a few late starting sobos off for a while. We did expect to see a few hikers. We weren’t prepared to see a total of 11 sobos including Baby who we had hiked with in Connecticut. He started at Harpers Ferry as a nobo when we had run into him. Once he sumitted Katahdin, he flipped back down to Harpers Ferry to head south to Springer.
I was flabbergasted by the number of downed trees from rains from hurricanes that lined the trail. I had forgotten that this area had been hit by two hurricanes this year. Most recently, Michael had even forced Shenandoah to close down for five days. The damage wasn’t quite as bad as the damage from the microburst we had seen in New York, but it will take the trail crews a bit of time and effort to clear. I was going to show Bunny the trees that a tornado had taken down the day we had gotten caught on a ridge last spring, but those downed trees were indistinguishable from the rest now.
I discovered a new hiking hazard—too much reminiscing. Everywhere we went, I’d recount to Bunny what had happened here while she was gone. This is where I ran into Little Blue and a Gnome and started hiking with them; this is where Gnome changed his clothes; this is where I peed (I always remember when I mark my territory).
After experiencing Maine, Virginia seemed all green. There wasn’t much color at all, but there were lots of leaves on ground. It doesn’t look like this area is going to have much in the terms of fall colors from all the storm damage.
I was amazed at the dirt trails with switchbacks. At the time, we didn’t know how nice we had it in VIrginia. Now after VT, NH, and ME the trail seemed so…easy. What I had thought were big climbs were just little bitty climbs. Did I really whine and complain as much as I thought I did back then? I must have been channeling someone else.
Even with the late start and the delays from reminiscing, we still made it to Chestnut Knob Shelter with plenty of time to set up and cook before it got dark (and the days are noticeably shorter, again). When Gnome and I had stayed here, we were forced to get top bunks because they were the only two available. The shelter had been completely full with lots of people camping further down the mountain before the shelter. This time, Bunny and I had the enclosed shelter all to ourselves.
EFG
Today’s List
10 best trail towns:
#10) Pearisburg, VA—One of my trail friends was waiting in line at the post office and a random guy started talking to him, asking if he was a thru-hiker. When he said he was, the guy said “We’re very glad you chose to come into town. If there’s anything you need, let me know and I’ll set you in the right direction.” This stranger turned out to be the mayor.
#9) Waynesboro, VA—Stanimals, 2 great smorgasbords, a great outfitter, ice cream shops, coffee shops, and a list of trail angels posted on the entry to town for you to call if you need anything. We stayed 3 days.
#8) Rangely, ME—A back woods village that used to be a ski town. It has everything you need in an amazing setting. We even saw a moose on the road here (GCN’s influence doesn’t extend to off trail). Manageable, quaint, friendly, and a great place for a zero.
#7) Kent, CT—A bit pricey for the average thru-hiker, but everything you need in easy walking distance. Charming and high class town that was very friendly to hikers. Just be sure to not take your pack into the laundromat.
#6) Great Barrington, MA—Like Kent, this town is can be a bit on the pricey side, but it has everything a hiker needs to enjoy a great day of rest. The town also provides free camping and showers at the sports center for those on a tighter budget. A Berkshire paradise for rich and thru-hiker alike.
#5) Delaware Water Gap, PA—The oldest jazz club/hotel in the country along with a gorgeous setting added to the fact that, if you are nobo, you are done with PA. The people and businesses in town welcome hikers with open arms.
#4) Boiling Springs, PA—One of the most beautiful little villages I’ve ever seen. The town is built around a spring-fed lake. The ATC even has an office here right on the trail. It’s even easy walking in and out of town on the longest section of flat trail (almost 18 miles of level walking). Free camping and lots of discounts to hikers, but there are hostels as well. Stop by the ATC office for any help you may need.
#3) Monson, ME—The gateway to the hundred mile wilderness. Recently, the founder of Bert’s Bees has been pumping money into the town in the hopes of developing a local art scene. Home of Shaw’s Hostel as well as an information office for Baxter to answer any question you could have and help you out with registering for Katahdin. Plenty of shopping choices in town but it’s easy to catch a ride to a grocery store in the next town if you’re on a tight budget. Plenty of help here, just ask.
#2) Hot Springs, NC—What a surprise this town turned out to be. There are lots of hostels, restaurants, and activities. This is the first real town after the Smokies so it sees a fair amount of hikers quitting here. In fact, by the time hikers make it this far, 50% have quit. The town got its name for a reason, don’t miss a chance to soak in the hot springs. We got a tub for 6 of us on a snowy day…BYOB.
#1) Hanover, NH—Now we’re talking. Dartmouth is a huge supporter of the trail and hiking. Everyone in town knows about the AT. People were so friendly, even crossing the street to enquire about how our hike was going. Literally, the road out of VT is lined with magic. It’s quite a trip to have obvious super rich parents and kids corner the smelly hikers, understand what you are doing, and praise you. Lots of hiker discounts and free food at local businesses. Places to stay are a bit limited, though. There are free buses and inexpensive hotels. Ask just about anyone you meet for assistance.