The highlight for today was food driven. Big Meadows was only 7 miles up the trail which placed it in a perfect position for a lunch stop for us. Since Virginia is flat, straight, and easy, we will be there in plenty of time for lunch. Geo relayed a message to us from Bear Foot that the climb into Big Meadows is the last semi-tough climb we will encounter in Shenandoah; from that point on, the trail is straight and smooth.
The trail to Big Meadows was anything but straight and smooth. Compared to GA, NC, and TN, the trail in Shenandoah is not as rough, but by no means easy. For personal comparison, I would put Shenandoah on par with the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path in Wales (minus the ocean views). I’m sure New Hampshire will be more like the GR10 in France—straight up, straight down. Bunny and I have yet to encounter an easy trail; the Camino would be the closest to easy in terrain but the road killed my feet.
We did make it to Big Meadows wayside for lunch. Bunny vetoed continuing on to the Lodge for more options feigning food consideration for paying guests who don’t want to smell dirty thru-hikers. Chad the Dad and Shay joined us for lunch when they showed up a few minutes after us. This wayside actually has a dining room option where we get to sit and be waited on.
Shay had a very disturbing story she shared with us concerning her experience from being bitten by a copperhead snake. I always thought a copperhead was to be avoided, but not really overly dangerous unless you are young, old, weak, or sick. Shay didn’t fall into those categories, but she is very petite and can pass for an early teen. We met her and her parents our first full day in the park when she was celebrating her 27th birthday. I didn’t and don’t believe it but her parents backed up her age claim.
Shay is a petite, bubbly girl; always ready to laugh even if having a bad day. The snake bite story boils down to three main points: 1) she could have lost her leg if she hadn’t gotten anti-venom, 2) the anti-venom cost $250K, and 3) they gave Shay morphine for pain. Point 3 was Chad’s favorite point because Shay became even more bubbly and happy. She was quite the draw for the hospital staff as well. She became more of a comedy show for all the staff to come in to watch. Even her family forgot the gravity of the situation with flighty, bubbly Shay on stage.
Once we got back on the trail, we hobbled past a trio out for a day hike. I say “hobbled” because we are old and tend to stiffen up quite a bit after stopping for a bit (especially Bunny since she is older than me). Grace, Katrina, and David seemed a bit amazed that two older people were actually out hiking the AT.
We came over a hill to find two Russians cowering behind rock (no Mr Trump, they are not in the witness protection program to testify against you) hiding from an approaching bear. They seemed relieved that it was just smelly thru-hikers. Vladimir and Galina were out for a day hike to enjoy the park. Galina reminded me of my sister because she had lost her hair from receiving radiation treatments for cancer. She covered her head to hide her baldness. I should have told her what I told my sister “screw what anyone thinks, that’s your badge for fighting and winning against cancer.” I wish her success and good health. Everyone please include her in your prayers.
Here’s a good indicator it’s time to take a shower—if you walk by a swarm of flies on a pile of poop and they leave the poop to land on you, it’s probably getting close to time to wash. We have noticed bears run from us when they see us, we assumed it was due to timidness but now I’m thinking they might be confusing us for older bears.
Luck was with us and we didn’t notice the rattlesnake on trail that we both stepped over walking behind the lodge. Another hiker came up behind us a bit shaken and asked us how we stayed so calm around snakes. I was still a bit queasy from Shay’s story and Bunny still suppresses a scream if she sees a big earthworm so I said we don’t stay calm. “So you didn’t see the snake that was as big around as your arm?” Ignorance is bliss.
We caught up with Chad the Dad and Shay at the hut. Spenders and Marc were already there and had set up there tents. I had carried a couple of beers from Big Meadows so we chilled a bit before making supper and getting ready for bed. There was a deer hanging around the hut and Spenders told us there was also a bear circling around, but not trying to come near people.
Reading log book, we had a note from Rich and Laura’s son, Baby Bear, who is hiking sobo in Shenandoah. Rich had told us he was out, but we had forgotten. Just as we had gotten settled into bed, one of the guys saw the bear behind the shelter. Everyone got up to get a good picture. We all stood around watching him forage for a bit, but he got spooked when he saw all of us and headed uphill. I don’t think he’ll be a problem.
EFG