It’s hard to get up early when check out isn’t until 11:30–at least that’s Pam’s philosophy. I was ready to go at 5 but suppressed my urge to hike; I’m a good husband who sleeps when told to sleep. I do as I’m told. We did get up in time to eat our breakfast buffet before it finished at 9:30. Yogurt, meat, and cheese included so we started the day off with protein instead of just carbs.
The second train leaves Ax at 10:49. We half-heartedly tried to hitchhike on our way to the station but I was afraid we might get a ride and then not be able to communicate. When I ordered the tickets, he said 5.60. I assumed each but when I got the receipt that was the total. I think the bus ripped us off the other day because he charged us 4.80 each.
The train was nice. If this is the type of train we can expect to take when we are traveling all over Europe we’ll be happy. We had an entire car to ourselves with plenty of room to spread out. When we got off in Merens 15 minutes later, we only saw one other person. We heard him talk and identified him as either American or Canadian. Tim was Canadian. We walked with him as far as the gite he was spending the night at and then had a cup of coffee with him while he had lunch. We ran into him again a little bit up the trail when he went to check out the natural hot springs next to the trail.
Today will be our last big continuos climb on this entire trip–4500′ without a break. After today, we won’t have another day over 4000′. The next biggest day is 3800′ and that will be broken up over 3 different climbs. A very weird thing happened on the way into Merens the other day: as we were crossing the boulder fields, I said to the GR10 “That’s about enough of this shit” and the GR10 acquiesced. Never before has the trail backed down when I’m nearing my limit. In other words, we finally own this trail. (Of course, it will kick our ass at least one more time to prove that’s not true.)
As we were having our coffee with Tim, we looked at the “new” Cicerone book. As much as I enjoy kicking dead guys, it really is a superior book in every conceivable way. It uses topographical maps, it has some information about the area you are passing through, the itineraries are more realistic (55 vs 50 days), it shows side trails, and, most importantly, it’s written by a living guy so No guilt about bitching about it.
Ax is the first time we have ever taken 2 days in a row off (other than Vielle-Aure which didn’t really count since we didn’t sleep an entire night before coming into town). Out of Merens is a 4500′ continuous climb and we smoked it. We even passed a couple of French hikers in the process. They were probably hiking with broken legs, but it doesn’t matter; after 65 days, we passed French people on the trail. Ax was the break we needed: lots of protein (think 1.5# of hamburger and chicken curry), 3 nights of sleep (with a fan in the room), breakfasts with protein, and a two hour therapeutic hot bath. For the first time in nearly 5 months, we have allowed our bodies to fully recover.
Truth of the matter is, we can finally make the ridiculous hiking times that are posted on the trail or suggested in the guidebook, but we don’t want to. We will probably never pass through this area again and we actually want to see it and enjoy it. This has been the case all along. My whining has been a preemptive whine to keep Pam quiet. I have been strong and not needed to complain at all. For all who know me, I am usually quiet, reserved, and stoic. That’s the end of the record–you can all quit clearing your throats now and shut up.
When PaMary arrived at the Inn with her husband leading the way, all the beds were full. CurJoseph reluctantly continued on knowing that his virgin wife was due at any moment. They found a sheltered spot next to a grove of trees where PaMary gave birth to another damn bunny–just what the world needs, a savior bunny. Please don’t strike me dead for the sacrilege I was forced to commit just now. It was either that or steal more jelly.
There were actually still two spots left in the refuge, but Pam decided that we would be better sleeping out at 7000′ even though we have gotten blown away every night we’ve slept above 6000′ in the Pyrenees. As you all know, I’m just along for the ride and never really voice my opinion if it conflicts with anyone around me–especially my wife. I’ve never experienced it, but I’m sure a spork in the throat is not the most pleasant feeling to wake up to.
We set the tent up next to a stream further up the valley from the refuge. I made (yes, I do all the cooking while backpacking) pasta with pesto with hot tea to drink. Even before the sun went down, it was too cold to stay outside of the tent to eat yet another, gourmet meal prepared by Curtis.
After cleaning the dishes (yes, I did that as well) my hands were numb, my teeth were chattering, yet my ears were functioning perfectly to hear my wife complain about the cold and how she was freezing to death. If only someone had considered staying at the refuge. It’s going to be a long cold night.
